ShopNotes_006.pdf
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Issue
6
.Table Saw Tenoning Jig
.
Tilting Drill Press Table
Tips
for
Cutting Tenons .Handy Shop-Built Clamps
I
EDITOR
Donald B. Peschke
EDITORIALDIRECTOR
Douglas L. Hicks
WNAGING EDITOR
Terry J. Strohman
ASSOCIATE EDITOR
R~chardS. Peters
rssismwr
EDITOR
Tim
Robertson
CREITIVE DIRECTOR
Ted Kralicek
ART DlnEcron
Cary Christensen
ILLUSTRATORS
S~hllltz
Will Nkkanen
Roger Reiland
Mark Higdon
OESIaN DI~E~OR
group of woodworker's to-
gether and you're sure to
come up with several ways to
solve a problem. The same holds
true for the way we design and
build the projects for ShopNotes.
DESIGN.
When we decide to
build a particular project, a rough
prototype is built in the sbop.
Then the artists, editors, design-
ers, and the sbop manager get
together and review the com-
pleted prototype.
Everyone has a chance to ask
questions and offer suggestions
on how to make the project bet-
ter. Then
it's
back to the shop to
build another prototype, and the
process starts all over again.
It
takes a lot of time and can be
frustrating, but in the end
it
makes a better project.
TENONING JIG.
A good exam-
ple of this is the TenoningJigfea-
tured in this issue. We went
through at least four prototypes
and countless modifications.
The end result is a tenoningjig
with several unique features: a
spring-loaded bold-down bar for
securing the workpiece to thejig.
An adjustable runner that fits in
the miter gauge slot. And a
unique stop system that lets you
cut both cheeks of the tenon
-
without removing the workpiece
from the jig.
HARDWARE.
The selection 8lld
use
of hardwareis animportant
part
of every project. Wheneverpossible
we
try
to use
basic
hardware.
Wing nuts, carriage bolts,
threaded rod, lock nuts, all of
these items are readily available
at local hardware stores orbuild-
ing centers.
The challenge is, coming up
with ways to use everyday hard-
ware to solve unique problems.
For instance, on the Drill
Press Table (shownon page 4)we
needed a way to hold the table in
position. The solution was to use
an ordinary coupling nut. The
only modification was to drill a
hole in it for a steel rod to pass
through. Simple hardware
-
simple solution.
Sometimes the answer to a
problem is right under your nose.
We wanted a pad on the jaws of
the Fast Action Clamp shown on
page 14. I found the solution in
my kitchen junk drawer
-
nylon
furniture glides.
So what's the point to all of
this? The point is: being a wood-
worker means being inventive.
We try to provide you with our
solution to a problem. But all of
Ken Munkel
oEs;rEno
Jan
Hale Svee
Kent Welsh
PnoroGRIpnEn
Crayola England
SHOP H~WAOER
Steve CUPtis
CIRCULATION
DIRECTOR
Liz Bredeson
SUSXRLP~ON ~NAGER
Phyllis Jessen
CIRCULATIONANALYST
Jim Woodson
wrwssnn~
~LES
Kent
A.
Buckton
Linda O'Rourke
BOOKKEEP~WG
Julianne Spears
N~ORKADMIN.
Douglas
M.
Lidster
ADMINI~~~~TIVE
rsslr.
Cheryl Scott
Julia Fish
nrcEpTlonlsr
Jeanne Johnson
DUILDING WNTENU~CE
Ken G%th
@
the projects can (and should) be
modified to fit your needs.
KNOBS.
I'd like to mention one
more thing about hardware. We
often use plastic knobs and wing
nuts on the projects in ShopNotes.
For years I put up with little
metal wing nuts and thumb
screws that I couldn't tighten.
The only solution was
to
make my
own, see page
13
for an example
of a shop-made wing nut.
Then, awhile back I came
across a selection of plastic re-
placement knobs and wing nuts.
I was hooked. They're easy to
grab onto, provide more lever-
age, and look better than any
knob or wing nut I'd used before.
The problem has been finding
them. Soin this issue we're listing
mail order sources for plastic
knobs and wingnuts, see page31.
MARKETING D~RECTOR
Robert Mq
mw.
SUPPLIES ART DIR.
CindyJackson
cusrar~~
Leslie
Ann
Gearhart
Linda Jones
SUPPORT
Jeff Janes
SVSTEW
omsrumn
Linda Morrow
RECEpTlONlST
Ken Lee
CUSTOMER SERVICE
Jennie Enos (Supervisor), Joy Johnson,
Sara Johnson, Ami Blanshan, Anna Cox,
Jennifer Murphy, Chris La
SHIPPING DEPARTMENT
JenyCarson
sup^:).
Glolia
Sheehaq
Ronald
Long, Don McVey, Chuck
Carh
ISN IHA
.ma.
.rpui.l'dcd ~r,~~ntl.ly
,Im~lq,Mm~,
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-
Subscdptiom
~gleCopy,$4.95.
One
yearsubsaip
tim
(6
issues)
$19.95. T.va years(12 issuer), $35.95.
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dd$4.00
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6scond
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at
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md
atadditional~~es.
Pastmaster;
Sendchange
oesddlsss
to
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cenVai
The,
weekday8
ShopNotes
No.
6
I
nventive individuals. Put a
W~ROLLER
Paul E. Gray
~ccounn~c
SERVI~
mn.
Laura McNelly
~WECT~~PPLIES
rrcnn~on~
S~OPNOIP.
7ilting Drill hssTable
4
A
tilting table, an adjustable fence, and a replaceable
insert make it easy to drill straight or angled holes.
Drill Press Table
Adjustable Stop Block
This stop block is ideal for making stopped cuts on a
router table, band saw, or drill press. Itk "micro-adjust-
able8'soyou can fine tune the position for an exact cut,
Fomtner Bits
10
Guidedby its rim insteadof a centerpoint,a Forstner bit
9
cuts near perfect flat-bottomed holes at any angle.
Shop-Built Clamps
12
Two clamps you can build at a fraction of the cost of
Shop-Built Clamps
page
12
store-boughtclamps. One for gluing up panels and the
other for quick clamping jobs.
II)
Table Saw Tenoning Jig
Precision tenons are easy with this shop-made
jig
for your
I
table saw it features a unique doublestop so you can cut
both sides of a tenon without flipping the workpiece.
7@
for Cutting Tenons
24
From stock preparation andlayout, to cutting the cheeks
and shoulders, these helpful tips will show you how to
cut a tenon that fits perfectly.
Tenoning Jig
Shop Solutions
28
Five shop-tested tips: Zero Clearance Insert, Depth
Gauge, Cut-off Jig for a Circular Saw, Squaring a Mi-
tered Corner,and a
Tip
for Mortising Hinges.
Knock- Down Fittings
30
All it takes to build furniture that's easy to knock down
and put back together again is the right hardware.
50unes
31
Hardware, project su~plies,and mail order sources for
the
Tenon Cutting Tips page
24
NO.
6
ShopNotes
3
in-thisissue.
Building this
tilting table
eliminates the
guesswork
when you want
to drill
pre-
cisely angled
holes onthe
drill press.
drill press can be a real
pain. Usually, you have to reach
under the table and use a wrench
to loosen a bolt. Then you have to
set the angle with one hand and
retighten the bolt with the other.
Instead of doing all this, I built
a separate table that adjusts eas-
ily for drilling angled holes. And
the table lies flat for drilling ver-
tical holes.
Then, to accurately position the
workpiece, I added a fence with a
built-in clamping system.
BASE.
Thetable consists oftwo
parts: an adjustable base and a
top that's added later. The
base
(A)
is made up of two squarepieces
of
34"
plywood held together with
a piano hinge, see Fig. 1.
oE!mRm
SIZE.
The size of
the base pieces will vary depend-
ing on the capacity of your drill
press. For example, on my 16"
drillpress, I can drill to the center
of a 16" workpiece. This means
the distance from the column
to
the center of the hit is at least 8".
Once this is determined, the
base pieces are cut 3" smaller
than the capacity.(Inmycase, the
base pieces are 13" square.)
After cuttingthepieces to size,
install the hinge along one edge.
Then,
to
compensatefor the thick-
ness of the hinge, add a 'leveling"
screw to the base, see Fig. la.
SUPPORT SYSTEM.
When the
base is assembled, the next step
is to add a support system to hold
the table at the desired angle.
This system consists of two
18"-longsteel rods. (See page 31
for sources.) One end of each rod
is bent at a 90" angle, see Fig. 2.
Then this end is inserted in a hole
drilled in the side of the top base
@
piece, see Figs. laand lb.
The key to the support system
is finding a way to hold the rod in
THREADED STUD
FROM %g"x
ZW"
CARRIAGE BOLT)
DRILL ehz"-DIA
HOLE
FOR
'/4"
R
4
ShopNotes
No. 6
D
rilling angled holes on a
'used
a coupling nut.
COWLING NUT.
The coupling
nut serves two purposes. First,
by drillinga hole through the nut,
the rod can slide up and down as
the table is tilted, see Fig.
3.
The nut also acts as a pivot. It's
threaded loosely on a "stud" that's
epoxied into the bottom of the
base, see Fig. lb. (I cut a
2"
sec-
tion off a carriagebolt and pushed
it
in
place leaving a
5/16"
stud.)
As the table is tilted, the nut
turns on the stud. Then by tight-
ening a threaded knob (orthumb-
screw) into the coupling nut, it
pinches the rod and locks the ta-
ble in place, see Fig. lb.
TOP.
After installing the sup-
port system, the next step is to
add the top. The top is designed
with a center insert
(B)
that can
be replaced when it gets "chewed
up," see Fig.
4.
The size of the top pieces is de-
@
termined by the size of the base.
Overall, the top is
3"
larger
than
the base (16" square in my case).
This creates a 1%"lip for the fence
that's attached later, see Fig. 4a.
To end up with a top this size, I
cut the center insert
4"
wide by
16"long and two
side
pieces (6)
6"
wide by 16"long. Tb-- +'le
in-
sert is screwed to the base (don't By fittingthe peg into the hole on
glue it). Next, round over the out- the metal table, the tilting table
side corners of the sides, and glue is automatidy centered.
and screw them in place.
LOCATE
HOLES.
The next step
CEmRINGPEG.
With the top is to locate the holes to attach the
complete,thenext step is to align tilting table. But before you can
the tilting table on the metal
drill
do this, you'll need to align the
press table. To do this, I added a table to the drill press column,
centering peg, see Fig. 5.
The peg isjust a dowel the same
refer to Steps
1
and
3
on page
7.
(1)
#B
x
%"
Fh
llbodscrew
diameter as the hole in the metal mark and drill the holes. Then
(10)
#B
x
1v4"
table. It's glued into a shallow hole attach the table with carriage
centeredonthe bottomofthebase. bolts and T-knobs (or wing nuts).
*
(4)
#8
x
2"
Fh
wooddcrewe
*
(4)
5/16"
X
1%''
.
Carriage Bob
(4)
%6"
X
2v2"
Carrlage
Boltd
*
(4)
%"
x
lFsU
Fender Washe
(2)
%6"
Fbt
Washers
(6)
FKmbe
wlth
@6"
Insert.
(2)
q16"
x
tU
Threaded
Knob6
*
(2)
F16"
Car-
pllng Nutc;
0)
lVz"
x
13"
Piano Hinge
-
(2)
V4"
x
18"
I
Steel
Rods
ShopNotes
5
place when the table is tilted
-
I
Once the table is aligned, just
Fh Woodscrewe
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