AustralianwoodsmithS56_Bevelled_Mitres.pdf
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technique
sawblade90°tothetable.You’ll
alsoneedtomakesuretheblade
isparalleltothemitreslot.After
this setup is done, you’re ready
totiltthebladetocutthebevel.
Blade angle.
Forthemitrejointto
it correctly, the bevels must be
cutatexactly45°.Theproblemis
when you set the blade tilt with
the gauge, the cut isn’t always
accurate.Soyou’llneedtocheck
theangle.
To do this, first tilt your blade
to 45° and make a test cut on a
pieceofscrapwoodasshownin
thedrawingontheoppositepage.
After making the cut, turn one
pieceoverandplacethebevelled
ends together and check the fit
withasquare.Ifthebladeiscut-
ting at exactly 45°, the ends will
formarightanglewhenthetwo
workpieces are joined together.
If they don’t join at a 90° angle,
you’llneedto“tweak”theangle
of the blade and make test cuts
untiltheangleiscorrect.
Withtheanglesetupcomplete,
you’llwanttobesurethecutyou
makeisstraightandaccurate.To
dothis,you’llwanttotakeaclose
lookatyourmitregauge.
auxiliary FenCe.
Attachinganaux-
iliary fence to your mitre gauge
will improve the accuracy of the
bevel cut. The fence provides
support along the edge of the
workpieceandmakesiteasierto
hold the workpiece securely as
youmakethecut.Italsoreduces
chipout.
align the FenCe.
Once the fence is
attachedtothemitregauge,you’ll
needtomakesurethebladecuts
straightacrosstheworkpiece.
To verify this, make a quick
test cut. Then check the end of
theworkpiecewithasquare,like
youseeintheseconddrawingon
thepreviouspage.Ifthecutisn’t
square,addpapershimsorplay-
ingcardstothemitregaugeand
retest the cut until a 90° angle is
reached.
The setup is now done. And
you’rereadytocutthebevels.
Making the Cut.
Iliketobeginwith
aworkpiecethat’saninchortwo
longer than the inished length.
Thisway,youwon’truntherisk
oftrimmingthepiecetooshort.
Istartbymakingthebevelcuts
atoneendofallthepieces.Then
I make the cuts at the opposite
endofeachpiece.AsImentioned
before, you’ll want to make sure
each piece is cut accurately to
length.Evenifyoucutthebevel
anglescorrectly,thecornerswon’t
fittightifthepiecesaretoolong
ortooshort.
CorreCt length.
A stop block is
helpfulforcuttingmultiplepiec-
estolength.Butyoucanalsouse
theauxiliaryfencetolineupthe
cut.
W
workshop tips for success
Bevelled
Close the Gap.
U
A small gap in the
mitre joint can be
quickly closed. Use
a screwdriver to
burnish the gap. A few
passes is all it takes to
make the joint nearly
invisible.
mitres
T
Straight Stock.
Choose your stock
carefully. A bow in the
workpiece can cause
you to cut the piece a
little shorter than you
want it to be.
Cutting a mitre on the end of a workpiece can be frustrating, but
with a few tips and the right setup, you can do it with ease.
Bevelling the ends of two pieces
of stock to create a mitre joint
appears simple enough. Just cut
matching45°bevelsattheendof
eachworkpieceandthenputthem
together.
But it isn’t always that easy. If
youfailtomakeexact45°cutsor
the cut isn’t square to the edge,
the joint won’t fit tight during
assembly.
Thetaskisevenmorechalleng-
ing when you join a number of
piecestogether(whichisusually
thecase).Thenyoumustbesure
you cut all the pieces to exact
lengthaswell.
Fortunately, there are a few
things you can do to assure suc-
cess. The first is to make certain
everything is set up correctly
beforemakinganycuts.
Sharp Blade.
One thing that’s of-
ten overlooked is the saw blade.
Tomakeaccuratecutsandavoid
ragged joint lines you’ll need to
beginwithasharpcrosscutblade.
Then you’ll want to be sure the
bladeislinedupproperly.
CroSSCut Setup.
I like to begin by
settingupmytablesawjustlike
IwouldwhenImakeastandard
crosscut.Thismeanssettingyour
{
Add Sandpaper to the Auxiliary Fence.
Attaching a strip of sandpaper to the auxiliary fence
prevents the workpiece from slipping as you hold it
securely in place.
how-to: saw setup details
cutting to length
a.
a.
Makingabevelledcrosscuttothe
rightlengthcanbeachallenge.But
youcanmakeiteasierifyouusethe
kerfinyourauxiliaryfenceasarefer-
enceforliningupyourblade.
First,tomeasurethelength,use
your ruler to mark a line on the
workpiece, as shown in Figure 1.
Next,lineupthekerfintheauxiliary
fencewiththelineonyourwork-
piece,likeyouseeinFigure2and
2a.Oncethekerfislinedupwith
themark,holdtheworkpiecefirmly
againsttheauxiliaryfenceandmove
itsteadilythroughtheblade.
1
2
a.
a.
{
Right Bevel Angle.
With the table saw set up for a crosscut, tilt
the blade to 45° and make a test cut. Then flip one side over and lay
the mitred ends together (detail ‘a’). Check the angle with a square.
If the corner isn’t 90° you’ll need to adjust the blade angle.
{
Square the Auxiliary Fence
. After tilting the blade to 45°, make
a bevelled test cut. Then use your square to see that the cut forms a
right angle with the edge. If it doesn’t, you’ll want to shim the fence
and repeat the test cut until the end cut is 90° to the edge.
28
AustralianWoodsmith
No.56
No.56
AustralianWoodsmith
29
making perfect
28
AustralianWoodsmith
No.56
No.56
AustralianWoodsmith
29
Plik z chomika:
VanClaaude
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