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B IRD F EEDER
Cedar shingles and copper roofing make this an attractive addition to any yard.
When it's time to refill, simply lower
the main housing on the pole for easy
access to the seed compartment.
friend side his house with
cedar shingles. The job
took time, but it sure looked
great when we were done.
SMALL SHINGLES . I remem-
bered that look as I was browsing
through a local hobby store.
Hanging on a display rack were
bags of scaled-down cedar shin-
gles (for dollhouses). It occurred
to me that they would make an
attractive siding for a bird feeder
I’d been planning.
Fortunately, the cedar shin-
gles I used on this bird feeder
didn’t take nearly as long to apply
as the full-size versions on my
friend’s house.
COPPER ROOF. Another eye-
catching feature of the bird
feeder is the real copper roof.
After spending some time out-
doors, the roof will take on the
attractive green patina that’s typ-
ical of aged copper.
Making the copper roof
doesn’t require any special met-
alworking equipment. The roof
is actually made of plywood
wrapped with a thin copper foil.
The foil can be found at many
hobby stores. Or you can order
a hardware kit from Woodsmith
Project Supplies that includes
the shingles and the copper foil.
Call 1-800-444-7527 for more
details about this.
OPTIONS. If you’d like a dif-
ferent look for the feeder, you
can put square shingles on the
roof instead of copper and make
clapboard siding for the ends.
Details for this version are
found in the Designer’s
Notebook on page 8.
EASY FILLING. With most
feeders, you lift the top to fill it
with seed. But since I wanted to
mount mine on a pole, that
method wouldn’t work ver y well.
Instead, the roof stays attached to
the top of the pole while the
bottom drops down to allow you
to pour in more seed (see inset
photo). A pin through the pole
holds the feeder at the proper
height for filling. Once the feeder
is full, a second hole higher on
the pole accepts the pin to hold
the feeder in place under the roof.
CEDAR. I used cedar for all of
the solid wood portions of the
feeder. Since the ends are cov-
ered with shingles, I used exte-
rior-grade plywood there.
From Woodsmith Magazine
page 2 of 9 ©2003 August Home Publishing
One copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
All rights reser ved
S everal years ago, I helped a
M
ROOF CAP
EXPLODED VIEW
OVERALL DIMENSIONS:
12W x 12D x 12 1 / 2 H
K
UPPER ROOF
PANEL
L
UPPER ROOF
TRIM
N
ROOF
BLOCK
B
DIVIDER
TOP
PIPE
FLANGE
D
DIVIDER
SIDE
E
END
FISH SCALE
SHINGLES
COPPER
SHEETING
ACRYLIC
PLASTIC
C
G
DIVIDER
END
SEED
STOP
B
H
DIVIDER
BOTTOM
PERCH
A
BASE
#8 1 " F
WOODSCREWS
!/4
h
I
J
LOWER
ROOF
PANEL
LOWER
ROOF
TRIM
F
SQUARE CEDAR
SHINGLES
TRIM
STRIP
WASHER
MATERIALS LIST
WOOD
A Base (1)
3 / 4 x 12 - 12
B Div. Top/Btm. (2)
3 / 4 x 1 1 / 4 - 10 1 / 2
C Divider Ends (2)
3 / 4 x 1 1 / 4 - 6 1 / 2
D Divider Sides (2)
1 / 2 ply - 8 x 10 1 / 2
GALVANIZED
PIPE
E Ends (2)
1 / 2 ply - 11 x 11 1 / 2
F Trim Strips (4)
1 / 4 x 3 / 4 - 6 rough
QUICK
RELEASE PIN
G Seed Stops (2)
1 / 2 x 3 / 4 - 10 1 / 2
H Perches (2)
1 / 2 x 1 1 / 4 - 12
I Lwr. Roof Panels (2)
1 / 2 ply - 5 x 14
J Lwr. Roof Trim (4)
1 / 4 x 1 1 / 4 - 12
CUTTING DIAGRAM
K Upr. Roof Panels (2)
1 / 2 ply - 5 7 / 8 x 13
L Upr. Roof Trim (4)
1 / 4 x 1 1 / 4 - 6 1 / 2
1 6 (
#/4 !/2
x
5 ) - 48 CEDAR (2 B . F .)
dt
M Roof Cap (1)
3 / 4 x 3 / 4 - 13
H
H
M
J
J
J
J
L
L
L
L
N Roof Block (1)
1 1 / 2 x 4 - 9
N
N
HARDWARE SUPPLIES
(12) No. 8 x 1 1 / 4 " Fh woodscrews
(8) No. 10 x 1" Fh woodscrews
(40) No. 16 x 1" brass escutcheon pins
(16) No. 17 x 3 / 8 " copper tacks
(1 bag) Square cedar shingles
(1 bag) Fish scale cedar shingles
(4) 40 ga. smooth copper sheets (12" x
19")
(2) 1 / 8 "acrylic plastic (6" x 12")
(1) 1 / 4 "-dia. x 1 3 / 4 " quick release pin
(1) 1 1 / 8 "-I.D. washer
(2) Pipe flanges
(1) Galvanized pipe
B
B
C
C
16 (
#/4 !/2
x
5 ) - 48 CEDAR (2 B . F .)
d t
G
A
A
A
F
F
!/2"
EXTERIOR PLYWOOD -
24 48
x
E
E
D
D
K
I
K
I
From Woodsmith Magazine
page 3 of 9 ©2003 August Home Publishing
One copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
All rights reser ved
x
x
x
1
BASE
10
!/2
10
!/2
TOP
a.
CROSS SECTION
CUT 15° BEVEL ON
EDGES OF BASE
B
I began work on the bird feeder by
making a 3 / 4 "-thick base (A). This is just
a glued-up 12"-square blank of cedar with
beveled edges (Figs. 1 and 1a) .
Note: Since the feeder is going to be
exposed to the weather, I used two types
of water-resistant glue for assembly. For
most of the bird feeder, I used an exte-
rior-grade yellow glue. Epoxy will be
used later when the shingles are
attached.
After cutting the base to size, the next
step is to drill a 1 1 / 8 "-dia. hole in the
center for a support pipe. While I was at
it, I also drilled the shank holes for
attaching the center divider which is
added next.
Note: Cedar splinters easily, so make
sure you back up the base with a piece
of scrap before drilling the holes.
CENTER DIVIDER. The center divider
separates the
feeder into two
sections. (This
lets me put dif-
ferent types of
seed in each
half.) It also pro-
vides a way to
attach the sides
of the feeder
later. The
divider consists
of a top/bottom
(B) and two ends (C) that are sand-
wiched between two sides (D).
Here again I used cedar, but only for
the top, bottom, and ends. For the sides
I used 1 / 2 " exterior-grade plywood. And
to make the opening wider so it’s easier
to fill the feeder, I beveled the top edges
at a 45° angle (Fig. 1b) .
After gluing the center divider
together, the next step is to drill cen-
tered holes for the support pipe to pass
through (Fig. 2) . The only problem is
the drill bit is shorter than the divider. So
the holes have to be drilled from both
the top and the bottom. To do this, I set
up a fence and stop block on the drill
press. After drilling through the top, flip
the divider over and drill through the
bottom. Keep the same end against the
stop block or the holes may not align
with each other.
DIVIDER INSTALLATION . After the holes
have been drilled, the divider can be
screwed to the base. Just be sure the
divider is positioned square on the base
BEVEL
EDGE 45°
#/4
8
BAS E
A
!/2
D
CENTER
DIVIDER
SIDE
( " E X TER IO R
PL Y WOOD)
!/2
C
b.
45°
BEVEL
END
1
!/4
1
!/4
BEVEL
EDGE 15°
BOTTOM
B
CENTERED
1 "-DIA.
HOLE
3
!/2
"-THICK
EXTERIOR
PLYWOOD
D
!/8
SIDE
12
BASE
A
12
"
SHANK
HOLE
#/16
NOTE: ALL PIECES
(EXCEPT SIDES)
ARE MADE FROM
"-THICK CEDAR
#/4
2
1 " SPADE BIT
!/8
3
a.
DRILL CENTERED
HOLE THROUGH
TOP AND
BOTTOM
CENTER
DIVIDER
D
FENCE
ALIGN HOLES IN
CENTER DIVIDER
WITH HOLES
ON BASE
A
CENTER
DIVIDER
ALIGN HOLES IN
DIVIDER AND BASE
#8 1 " F
WOODSCREW
x
!/4
h
STOP BLOCK
4
a.
CENTER END PIECES
ON DIVIDER AND
SCREW IN PLACE
END PIECE LAYOUT
11
END
PIECES
3!/8
%/8
E
2
#/4
1%/8
11
!/2
3
!/8
5
#/4
CENTER
DIVID E R
4
1
!/2
6
!/2
NOTE:
END PIECES ARE
CUT FROM "-THICK
EXTERIOR PLYWOOD
SPACER
A
!/2
1!/2
BASE
#8 1 " F
WOODSCREWS
x
!/4
h
From Woodsmith Magazine
page 4 of 9 ©2003 August Home Publishing
One copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
All rights reser ved
6
!/2
and the holes in the divider and base
align (Figs. 3 and 3a) . (An easy way to
align the holes is to run a length of pipe
through them.)
END PIECES. After attaching the divider
to the base, work can begin on the end
pieces. I started by cutting a blank for
each end piece (E) from 1 / 2 "-thick exte-
rior-grade plywood (Fig. 4a) . After laying
out the shape on one blank, I fastened
both blanks together with carpet tape.
Then I cut both pieces at once on the
band saw (or you could use a jig saw).
This ensured that both pieces were iden-
tical.
Before the end pieces can be attached
to the divider, there are a couple of things
to do. First, two shallow grooves are cut
on the inside face of each end piece.
These grooves will be used to hold the
1 / 8 "-thick acr ylic plastic panels that create
each food compartment. It’s easy to cut
them on the table saw (Figs. 5 and 5a) .
Second, to hold the panels at the cor-
rect height for the seed to flow out I
glued 1"-long spacers at the bottom of
each groove (Fig. 5b) .
Once the spacers are in, center the
end pieces (E) on the base (A) and clamp
them in place. After drilling shank and
pilot holes, secure the ends to the divider
with screws (Fig. 4) .
SHINGLES & TRIM
5
a.
GROOVE
FOR ACRYLIC
PLASTIC PANEL
b.
E
END
PIECE
E
END
E
E ND
PIECE
!/4
1#/8
!/8" !/8"
SPACER
x
1
!/8
CUT GROOVES PARALLEL
TO SIDES OF END PIECES
After attaching the end pieces, I added
the shingles. I used two different styles
of cedar dollhouse shingles for this
project. The lower section has typical
square-cut shingles. But I wanted some-
thing different for the gable area, so here
I used fish scale (half-round) shingles
(Fig. 6) . I found both types at a local
hobby shop. They are also included in
the hardware kit offered by Woodsmith
Project Supplies . Call 1-800-444- 7527
for information. There are a few tricks
that will help you align the shingles prop-
erly. The Shop Tip below shows you how.
TRIM STRIPS. Finally, to cover the
exposed edges of the sides and shingles,
I attached 1 / 4 "-thick trim strips (F), using
a water-resistant glue (Fig. 6) . Since the
angles make it tough to secure these
pieces with clamps, I just held the strips
in place with my hands until the glue
6
FISH SCALE
SHINGLES
C UT TR IM
BO A RD TO MA TC H
ROOF ANG LE
TRIM STRIP
( " THICK)
F
6
(ROUGH)
SQUARE-
CUT SHINGLES
#/4
became tacky.
The angled sides of the feeder
posed a challenge when it came
time to install the shingles. I
couldn’t use the slanted edges
as vertical reference points. So I
decided to lay the shingles by
working outward from a vertical
centerline (see drawing) .
I also marked layout lines to
help maintain a 3 / 4 " spacing
from the bottom of one course
(row) to the bottom of the next
(see drawing) . Once the lines are
drawn, the bottom row of shin-
gles can be glued in place.
Note: Because of its strength
and gap-filling abilities, I used
quick-set (5-minute) epoxy to
attach the shingles.
With the first course com-
plete, you can lay an overlap-
ping second course. Work your
. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Attaching Shingles
way up the side, one course at a time,
overlapping each course as you go.
There are just a few tips to keep in
mind. First, I found it easiest to let the
end shingles hang over the edge, and
then come back and trim them flush
with a utility knife (see photo).
Second, the shingles look best if
they’re staggered between courses
(just like real shingle siding). To do
this, it’s simply a matter of shifting
each alternating course half a
shingle’s width from the course
immediately below it.
STAGGER
JOINT LINES
BETWEEN
ROWS
CENTERLINE
LAYOUT
LINE
#/4
SQUARE CUT
SHINGLES
EPOXY SHINGLES IN PLACE
ONE ROW AT A TIME
From Woodsmith Magazine
page 5 of 9 ©2003 August Home Publishing
One copy permitted for personal use. Other copies prohibited.
All rights reser ved
!/4
 

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