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1.8T Timing Belt Replacement - Revised - Passat World Forums

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1.8T Timing Belt Replacement - Revised

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B5 Information-Base The most wanted B5 Passat information is gathered for you all in one section. Only the best, and most informative, posts can

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11-30-2004, 09:19 PM

# 1

DaddyMatt

3rd Gear

Join Date: Nov 2000

Location: Ocala FL

Posts: 1,753

1.8T Timing Belt Replacement - Revised

****Feel free to reply or PM any comments to me. -Matt****

DaddyMattÓs 1.8T Timing Belt Replacement Writeup

Scope: Replacement of timing belt and tensioner on a 1.8T (AEB) engined 1999 Passat GLS with Tiptronic. (Your engine

may vary.) This post is a refinement of my previous post on the same subject. VolkswagenÓs original recommendation

on the AEB engine was to replace the timing belt at 105,000 miles (5k after the drivetrain warranty expired...hmmm...).

While there have been reports of the original belt lasting 105k or even longer, the likelihood of failure before then and

high cost of the resulting repairs have lead many to change the belt (and tensioner) at a shorter interval (typically

60,000 miles).

Disclaimers: (Of course, all the pertinent "tear up your car at your own risk" disclaimers apply.) I assume no

responsibility whatsoever for damages that an end user may inflict upon their vehicle, themselves or others using

information contained herein. Proceed with caution and care when performing modifications to your vehicle. Be advised

that making modifications to your vehicle may void your manufacturer's warranty. Follow general safety rules for

automotive work. Read and understand the entire procedure before attempting this work. Bear in mind that this writeup

was done 6 months after the fact, so not all was fresh in mind. Please bring any errors to my attention so I can correct

them. Understand that IÓm ÐnotÓcho MamaÑ, so donÓt come cryinÓ to me if you mess up your car!

Most directions referred to in this write-up are those you would see if you were sitting in the driverÓs seat (ÐfrontÑ is

toward the front of the car, etc.). Bear in mind that photos depicting some operations were taken after the fact. I did not

include torque specifications, but any that you may need should be in Chilton/Haynes/Bentley (every Passat owner

should own at least one of these, unless they keep their own mechanic on retainer). Please PM me if you find any errors

or Ðopportunities for improvementÑ in this post! I tried to cover everything, but wouldnÓt be surprised if I missed

something.

BTW, there is now additional AWM-specific info at the bottom of this post.

Props: Much thanks to Msquared for proofreading and technical assistance, Jay and Winston for hosting my pics on

RMCB5, and HermanH for allowing me to crosslink photos from his most excellent ÐSnubmountÑ writeup. HermanÓs

site has a lot of great info, plus photos from angles that I missed. If you're planning on doing your water pump at

the same time, don't miss Taligentx's writeup; I'll be printing it next time I do MY timing belt! Also, there is an A4-

specific writeup at AudiWorld that has good pictures of timing cover bolt locations, etc.

Tools:

Metric Sockets (3/8Ñ and 1/2Ñ Drive, various sizes)

Torx Bits (3/8Ñ Drive, various sizes)

Allen (Hex) Bits (3/8Ñ Drive, various sizes)

Torque Wrench

Volkswagen Special Tool 3369 or (2) 8mm X 1.25 threaded stock (optional)

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=167704

12/11/2008

1.8T Timing Belt Replacement - Revised - Passat World Forums

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Flashlight

Oil drain pan

Bottle of Wite-Out or piece of chalk (for making timing marks)

4Ñ-5Ñ blocks of 2x4 wood (qty 2) ( EDIT: Or, if you want to go all-out, you can buy a couple of 1/2"O.D.x4Ñ roll pins from

the hardware store to use as sleeves around the bumper bolts, as suggested by Tom aka ms12339.)

ÐAuxiliary Voltage Input DeviceÑ (if you donÓt want to reprogram your radio stations)

Icy cold beverage of your choice (additional disclaimers may apply)

Parts: (These were the prices and part numbers when I bought them. Pricing for kits and individual parts have changed.)

058.198.479 Timing Belt Kit $109.00

058.109.244 Timing Belt Roller $27.00 (not included in most timing belt kits, but replacing it is a good precaution)

5PK-1300 Alt/PS Belt (5-rib) $10.79

4PK-0855 A/C Belt (4-rib) $11.69

I bought my parts for this procedure from ECS because of their reputation and great prices. Tom was a big help, Brian

was patient (in spite of my numerous questions), Coleen was prompt in getting me the tracking numberÈand most of

their prices can't be beat. The timing belt in my kit was a Dayco, 153 tooth (original was a Gates, though made in

Germany), accessory belts are Conti's, downright beautiful looking belts, almost too pretty to hide under the hood!

Helpful Hints:

*Consider buying the Haynes manual. It is cheap (~$15), well-written and well-illustrated; a handy reference for now

AND later. I studied it in preparation for this procedure and referred to it repeatedly while writing this post (and tried my

best to avoid plagiarizing it!).

*I used a clear plastic fishing lure box to keep track of nuts and bolts (Mr. Monk would be proud).

This was a big time saver. Since I was following the Haynes manual, I labeled each compartment with the paragraph

number for that step.

If youÓre about due for new sparkplugs, now would be a good time to change them, since you have to remove them

anyway.

*While performing this procedure, take time to check for things like leaky bearing seals, worn/damaged parts, etc.

*If your water pump is leaking (or has a lot of miles on it) you might want to replace it now. The Lock Carrier (LC) must

be removed to replace the water pump, so some B5Óers choose to replace it and the timing belt together to save time

later. Here's a helpful post on the subject: Water Pump Writeup ...though I haven't a clue where B5V6 got the first

several pictures from! :wink:

*Now is also a good time to upgrade stuff like the DV (I did), the (dry-rot-prone) OEM vacuum hoses, crankshaft pulley,

or N75 valve since theyÓre all more accessible with the LC removed.

*Take care that you DO NOT (inadvertently or out of curiosity) pull the pin on the new tensioner before installing it and

the new belt! The spring inside of it is under tension and you will have to compress it in a vise or such to get the pin

back in.

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=167704

12/11/2008

1.8T Timing Belt Replacement - Revised - Passat World Forums

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Procedure:

1. Put car on ramps, put transmission in Park or Neutral, set emergency brake and block rear wheels. Remove the

ignition key for safety.

2. (-optional-)Connect an ÐAuxiliary Voltage InputÑ device. This will keep power to your ECU and save you from having

to reset the stations on your stereo. I chose to fabricate my own device, which was simply a fused jumper wire that I

connected in parallel with the battery cable before disconnecting it. This kept voltage to the electronics, but since it was

fused I was protected from the consequences of shorting-out anything with a wrench, etc.

3. Disconnect battery.

4. Remove belly pan. Take a deep breath...now you get to strip a few parts off the front of your B5 so you can put the

Ðlock carrierÑ in the Ðservice positionÑ.

5. Remove the air intake duct, and then remove the front turn-signal corner markers. Each is held in by a single catch

and they come out easily, without tools. The catch is a white plastic ring attached to a small spring on the back side of

the reflector. Grasp the ring with your finger and pull gently back and to the side (I say ÐgentlyÑ because I have broken

the rings off both of mine - without even pulling very hard). Once the rings are unhooked, the reflector assembly slides

right out the front. The turn signal bulb and socket will come out with just a push and a twist. Disconnect the headlight

wires.

6. Hood latch: The plastic hood-release pull must be disconnected from the hood latch mechanism in order to remove

the front bumper cover. Remove the three bumper cover retaining screws shown in the picture below. A plastic cover

encloses the hood latch mechanism. Using a knife or a small flat-blade screwdriver, pry up the two small plastic pins that

hold it in place, and then remove the cover.

Using a small flat-blade screwdriver (or two), disconnect the plastic hood-release pull from the latch mechanism. ItÓs a

bit of a pain to get off, so be patient.

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=167704

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1.8T Timing Belt Replacement - Revised - Passat World Forums

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7. Front Bumper Cover: Remove the screws shown in the following photos:

8. Carefully slide the front bumper cover forward and off the car. ItÓs not heavy, but you may want a second set of eyes

and hands to help you avoid scratching any of the bodywork. Set it aside in a safe place or let your kid(s) play with it.

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=167704

12/11/2008

1.8T Timing Belt Replacement - Revised - Passat World Forums

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9. Front Bumper: While you can leave the bumper on, I think the whole job goes smoother if you get it out of the way

(besides, the bumper bolts might come in handy in Step 11!). Simply remove the two bumper bolts and pull the bumper

off toward the front. The bumper is all-aluminum, so itÓs not as heavy as it may look. You may notice that each of the

bolts is obstructed by the plastic carrier under the headlights. A bit of twisting and prying will pay off here, but be

forewarned, getting them back in is actually a little bit harder.

10. Lock Carrier (LC): This part of the body holds the radiator and oil cooler, headlights, horns and some other

plumbing, as well as the hood latch. While the LC does not have to be completely removed, it does need to be moved

forward several inches to provide the working space needed to change the timing belt. This can be done without draining

the radiator, though care must be taken to avoid damaging the various lines that run to it, such as:

¤ A/C lines to condenser

¤ Oil lines to oil cooler

¤ Coolant lines to radiator

¤ Wires to horns

¤ Wire to outside temperature sensor

11. Remove one of the four lock carrier retaining bolts on either side of the radiator and replace it with the ÐSpecial Tool

3369Ñ, the 8mm X 1.25 threaded stock, or my favorite, the bumper bolt removed in step 9. (Note: When I did my car, I

bought a couple pieces of 5/16Ñ X 12Ñ threaded stock from Lowes since nobody in my town seems to carry threaded

stock in metric sizes. The 5/16Ñ stock will thread (loosely) into the holes, but flexed a lot more than the hardened

bumper bolts. I left both the threaded stock and the bumper bolts in place for strength, but I think the bumper bolts

alone should be plenty strong. (EDIT: Other members have since confirmed this for me.)

12. Unbolt the power steering oil cooler line and outside temperature sensor from the front of the LC. Also, remove the

small retaining clip that secures the temp sensorÓs wire.

http://www.passatworld.com/forums/showthread.php?t=167704

12/11/2008

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