Replacing and Repairing Old Plumbing.pdf

Leave old plumbing pipes in place, if possible. To save time, professional plumbing contractors remove old

plumbing pipes only when they interfere with the routing of the new plumbing lines.

Plumbing pipes, like all building materials, even-

tually wear out and have to be replaced. If you

find yourself repairing leaky, corroded pipes

every few months, it may be time to consider

replacing the old system entirely—and soon. A

corroded water pipe that bursts while you are

away can cost you many thousands of dollars

in damage to wall surfaces, framing members,

and furnishings.

always involves some demolition and carpentry

work. Even in the best scenario, you probably

will find it necessary to open walls and floors in

order to run new pipes. For this reason, replac-

ing old plumbing is often done at the same time

as a kitchen or bathroom remodeling project,

when wall and floor surfaces have to be removed

and replaced.

Identifying the materials used in your plumbing

system can also tell you if replacement is ad-

vised. If you have galvanized steel pipes, for

example, it is a good bet that they will need to

be replaced in the near future. Most galvanized

steel pipes were installed before 1960, and since

steel pipes have a maximum life expectancy of

30 to 35 years, such a system is probably living

on borrowed time. On the other hand, if your

system includes copper supply pipes and plastic

drain pipes, you can relax; these materials were

likely installed within the last 40 years, and they

are considerably more durable than steel, pro-

vided they were installed correctly.

Unless you live in a rambler with an exposed

basement ceiling, replacing old plumbing nearly

Partial replacement involves replacing only those

sections of your plumbing system that are currently

causing problems. This is a quick, less expensive

option than a complete renovation, but it is only a

temporary solution. Old plumbing will continue to

fail until you replace the entire system.

Complete replacement of all plumbing lines is an

ambitious job, but doing this work yourself can save

you thousands of dollars. To minimize the inconve-

nience, you can do this work in phases, replacing

one branch of the plumbing system at a time.

By the time you spot the telltale evidence of

a leaky drain pipe or water supply pipe, the

damage to the walls and ceilings of your home

can be considerable. The tips on the following

pages show early warning signals that indicate

your plumbing system is beginning to fail.

Proper evaluation of your plumbing helps you

identify old, suspect materials and anticipate

problems. It also can save you money and frus-

tration. Replacing an old plumbing system at

your convenience before it reaches the disaster

stage is preferable to hiring a plumbing contrac-

tor to bail you out of an emergency situation.

Minimum recommended water capacity is based on

total demand on the system, as measured by fixture

units, a standard of measurement assigned by the

Plumbing Code. First, add up the total units of all the

fixtures in your plumbing system (page 26). Then,

perform the water supply capacity test described be-

low. Finally, compare your water capacity with the

recommended minimums listed above. If the capac-

ity falls below that recommended in the table above,

then the main water supply pipe running from the city

water main to your home is inadequate and should be

replaced with a larger pipe by a licensed contractor.

Remember that the network of pipes running

through the walls of your home is only one part

of the larger system. You should also evaluate

the main water supply and sewer pipes that

connect your home to the city utility system and

make sure they are adequate before you replace

your plumbing.

How to Determine Your Water Supply Capacity

meter, then disconnect the pipe on the house

side of the meter. Construct a test spout using a 2"

PVC elbow and two 6" lengths of 2" PVC pipe, then

place the spout on the exposed outlet on the water

meter. Place a large watertight tub under the spout

to collect water.

into the container for 30 seconds. Shut off the

water, then measure the amount of water in the

container and multiply this figure by 2. This number

represents the gallons-per-minute (gpm) rate of your

main water supply. Compare this measurement with

the recommended capacity in the table above.

I Shut off the water at the valve on your water

2 Open the main supply valve and let the water run

Symptoms of Bad Plumbing

Rust stains on the surfaces of toilet bowls and sinks

may indicate severe corrosion inside iron supply

pipes. This symptom generally means your water

supply system is likely to fail in the near future.

NOTE: Rust stains can also be caused by a water

heater problem or by a water supply with a high

mineral content. Check for these problems before

assuming your pipes are bad.

Low water pressure at fixtures suggests that the

supply pipes either are badly clogged with rust and

mineral deposits, or are undersized. To measure water

pressure, plug the fixture drain and open the faucets

for 30 seconds. Measure the amount of water and

multiply by 2; this figure is the rating in gallons per

minute (gpm). Vanity faucets should supply 13/4 gpm;

bathtub faucets, 6 gpm; kitchen sink faucets, 41/2 gpm.

Slow drains throughout the house may indicate that

DWV pipes are badly clogged with rust and mineral

deposits. When a fixture faucet is opened fully with

the drains unstopped, water should not collect in

tubs and basins. NOTE: Slow drains may also be the

result of inadequate venting. Check for this problem

before assuming the drain pipes are bad.

Backed-up floor drains indicate that the main sewer

service to the street is clogged. If you have this prob-

lem regularly, have the main sewer lines evaluated by

a plumbing contractor before you replace your house

plumbing. The contractor will be able to determine if

your sewer problem is a temporary clog or a more

serious problem that requires major work.

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