Cabinet - OFFICE DISPLAY CABINET.pdf
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OFFICE DISPLAY CABINET
OFFICE DISPLAY
CABINET
Every executive accumulates business mementos,
personal treasures, souvenirs and perhaps even a few
cherished awards. These are the things that personalize an
otherwise utilitarian office space. They make it a
comfortable place to work and an inviting place for
associates to visit. However, the successful executive
needs more than a simple shelf on the wall to display the
collection.
Our walnut cabinet was custom designed to fill this need.
As with our two companion pieces, this case features
matching walnut veneer across the lower doors and on the
cabinet sides. The two upper cases have lighted interiors
and mirrored backs to showcase the objects placed inside.
Tempered glass doors and glass shelves complete the
package.
While this project is ambitious in terms of material cost, the
construction details are within the capabilities of an
experienced home woodworker. We used walnut-veneer
MDF (medium-density fiberboard) for the panels. To
produce the matched-veneer appearance, order the panels
"sequence matched and numbered." Here, each panel will
be numbered to correspond to the order in which the
eneers were cut from the log.
v
Case Construction
Begin by cutting the walnut panels for the upper and lower
cases. Pay special attention to matching the veneer on the
outer sides so that the grain runs continuously from the
lower- to upper-case side. Cut the panels slightly oversize,
add the solid-walnut edge band (O, F) to the front edges of
all panels and add the walnut veneer tape (M) to the top
edges of the lower-case outer sides (E1). Then cut the
panels to finished size.
Use the router with straightedge guide to cut the rabbet in the
outer case sides (E1, N1) that hide the cabinet backs. Lay
out the joining-plate slots in sides, tops and bottoms, and cut
the slots with the plate joiner.
Make a boring template for the shelf-pin holes in the lower
cabinets and a second template for the pin holes in the upper
cabinets. A strip of 1/2-in. plywood or MDF is perfect for the
template. Clamp the appropriate template to a cabinet side,
and use it as a guide in boring the holes. A stop on the drill
bit ensures uniform hole depth.
Mark the locations of the glass-hinge mortises on the upper-
case top and bottom panels (P). Trace the hinges for the
proper mortise shape. Use a router and straight bit to remove
most of the waste from the mortises and finish with a sharp
chisel and gouge. Test fit the
hinge
bases and make any
necessary adjustments.
Lay out and bore the 7/8-in.-dia. holes for the light switches
in the upper-case sides (N2). Use an adjustable circle cutter
to bore the 58-mm-dia. holes for the halogen lights in the
upper-case tops.
Sand the interior surfaces of the cabinet parts before
assembly, finishing with 220-grit paper. Then, completely
dust off the parts.
To assemble one of the cases, spread glue on each plate
and in its slot before inserting the plate. Join the top and
bottom to one of the case sides, then position the opposite
side and apply clamps to pull the joints tight. Compare
opposite diagonal measurements to check that the cabinet is
square and adjust the clamps if necessary. Let the glue set
for at least 30 minutes before removing the clamps. Repeat
the process for the remaining cases.
Cut the 1/2-in. panels for the case backs (I, R). Note that the
top edge of the lower-case backs must be covered with
walnut-veneer tape. Apply the tape to the edge before cutting
the panel to finished size. Bore pilot holes and temporarily
fasten the backs to the cases with 1-in. No. 5 fh screws.
The Spacers, Base And Soffit
Prepare the maple spacers that fit between the cabinets and
between the upper cases and the soffit. Temporarily screw
the upper vertical spacers (CC) to an upper-case side and
attach the lower vertical spacers (DD) to a lower case.
Cut the maple parts for the base and soffit, as well as the
3/4-in. gussets (Y1, Y2, D1, D2). Assemble the base and
soffit with 4d finishing nails and glue. Set and fill the nail
holes. When the filler dries, sand the assemblies.
Lay the two bottom cases on their backs and clamp them
together so that they are properly aligned. Bore pilot holes
and temporarily screw the two cases together. Next,
temporarily screw the base to the case bottoms. Stand the
assembly on the floor. If necessary, shim the base so the
assembly is level and stable.
Bore and countersink pilot holes in the spacers that separate
the top and bottom cases. Then temporarily screw them to
the top of the lower case assembly. Position the upper cases
over the lower subassembly. Screw the upper cases together
and fasten the upper half to the lower half by screwing
through the tops of the lower cabinets. Then, temporarily
install the top spacers (Z, AA, BB), place the soffit in position
and temporarily secure it.
The Doors And Shelves
Select the panels for the lower cabinet doors so there will be a uniform,
matching grain pattern across the lower cases. Cut the panels to size and
apply walnut-veneer tape on all edges. Bore the 35mm recesses for the
hinges in each door and mount the hinges on the doors. Attach the hinge
mounting plates to the lower-case sides, mount the doors and adjust the
hinges for proper spacing. Bore 3/16-in. holes for the door pulls and fasten the
pulls to the doors.
For safety's sake, it's best to use tempered glass for the display case doors.
Tempered glass must be specially ordered and cannot be altered once the
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