GardenShedProjectPlan[1].pdf

Garden Shed Project Plan

The Georgia-Pacific Garden Shed is designed

to be built by the moderately experienced

carpenter. It features a platform construction

on 4x4 posts sunk in concrete-lined holes

similar to standard residential deck

construction so it can be set on any firm soil

whether sloped or flat without site

preparation.

The sturdy shed will be an attractive addition to your home for many years.

There is approximately 40 square feet of floor space inside the shed and ample headroom for storage of bicycles, a lawnmower, garden

tools or play equipment. The room is large enough for a six foot potting bench or workbench; a rear window provides natural light. The

design includes a hutch on the side big enough for several refuse or recycling bins. Adding insulation, electricity, or running water would

expand the use of this room for many purposes.

MATERIALS LIST

Plytanium and Lumber

Posts:

5— 4x4 pressure treated

or cedar posts @ 12 ft.

Floor and rim joists:

8— 2x8 @ 8

Flooring:

3 — 23 / 32

Trim

GP PrimeTrim ® engineered wood trim in the following

dimensions:

Overdoor, cornerboards and sub-fascia:

8— 1x6 @ 16

Door and window casing and trim, hutch corner

boards, baseboards:

7— 1x4 @ 16

Skirt on shed:

2— 5 / 4 x 10 @ 16

Windows

Rear window:

prefabricated 24 x24 wood octagonal venting

window with clear glass

Optional: insect screen

Optional window on door: plexiglas or glass custom

cut to fit

Roof

Felt: 1 roll GP-15 lb. residential roofing felt

Shingles: 4 bundles GP Summit ® Series

Ridge cap:

1 bundle —GP hip and ridge shingles to match

desired Summit ® shingle color

Roll ridge vent:

8 linear feet

Optional Furnishings

Shelves:

2—1 x 10 pine shelves @ 16

Cabinets:

2— prefabricated 6

Fascia on shed and band:

6— 5 / 4 x8 @ 16

Stud walls, sole plates, double cap plates:

8— 2 x 4 @ 14

sidewall studs

18 — 2 x 4 @ 10

front and rear wall studs

Fascia on recycling hutch:

1— 5 / 4 x6@ 16

Skirts and band on hutch:

2— 5 / 4 x4 @ 16

Siding

¹⁹⁄₃₂ x 4 x 8 Plytanium ™ Siding with 4 on

center grooves

Front and rear facades:

4— 4

plates, headers, jacks, etc.

Door rails and stiles:

3— 2 x 4 @ 8

Rafters:

6— 2x6 @ 14

Ridge Beam:

1— 2x8 @ 8

Plytanium ™ Sheathing

Interior wall sheathing:

11— 11 / 32 @ 4 x8 Plytanium ™ Ply-Bead ® Panels

Perforated hardboard @ 4 x8

Ceiling:

4 — 11 / 32 @ 4 x8 Plytanium Ply-Bead Panels

Concrete and Gravel

12 — 80 lb. bags of concrete mix=2 bags per hole

Gravel: enough to cover ground under shed. (optional)

Hardware

Door hinges:

3 pairs —strap style, black

Door latches:

2—with hasp and lock, black

Joist hangers:

16 —to fit 2 x 8 joists

14 —to fit 2 x 4 joists

Nails:

25 lbs.—16 penny hot dipped galvanized (HDG) sinkers

10 lbs. —1 1 / 4

Panels

Side facades and door:

7— 4 x8 Panels

Moulding and Flashing

Cove moulding under fascia edge:

96 linear feet — 3 / 4

running feet, 36

high

Countertop:

G-P MDF, cut to fit approx. 6

cove profile

Optional trim on window in door: 1— casing @ 8

or 1

Trellis

Framing: 4 —2x2 @ 12

Vinyl coated electrical wire hooks and screw eyes for

mounting

Paint and Caulk

Approximately 2 gallons of exterior acrylic latex

primer and wall paint, non-hardening caulk

2x 2 flashing @ overdoor and window; 10 linear feet

3x3 flashing @ hutch roof and shed sidewall:

10 linear feet

Z flashing: 36 linear feet —aluminum flashing

Ramp

Top Choice pressure-treated lumber joists:

1—2x6 pressure-treated @ 12 (length will vary to

accommodate each site)

Decking: 3 — 5 / 4 x6

pressure-treated @ 12

HDG roofing nails

10 lbs. —8 penny HDG finish nails for trim

10 lbs . —8 penny HDG spiral siding nails

5 lbs.—joist hanger nails HDG

Optional footholds:

number varies with length of ramp, spaced every 12

1 x 2 @ 14

long each

thick Plytanium ™ Sturd-I-Floor ®

or Plytanium ™ Sanded Project Panels 4

13 — 2 x 4 @ 16

Roof Deck:

5 — 15 / 32

@ 4

deep — 3 / 4

Drip edge on the top of fascia @ eave and rake:

5— drip edge @ 10

Garden Shed Project Plan

1. SITING THE SHED

Choose a convenient location, (not necessarily on flat ground). When

finished, the bottoms of the floor joists should be at least 6 inches

above the ground, high enough that water puddling on the ground

cannot reach them. The ramp should be long enough to slope down

at a 45 degree angle or less.

7. DOOR AND WINDOW

Cut the door out of siding and apply 2 x 4’s flat for stiffening and add

a diagonal brace from top hinge down to the lower corner on the

swinging side. Optional: Add a small window made of plexiglass,

window glass or insect screen trimmed with small-dimensioned

window stop and use small strips of lattice for decorative muntins.

Hang the door in the cased opening using decorative strap hinges

mounted on pads so they lay flat with the door trim. Leave the sole

plate under the door as a door stop. Install window in rear wall.

2. FOOTING AND POSTS

Lay out the holes to make certain they are square. Dig the holes for

the footings; the depth should be below your local frost line. Make

the holes larger than the posts to allow for adjustment (approx. 12

wide). Set four full-length 4 x 4 corner posts in the holes, temporarily

bracing them in both directions so they stay plumb. DO NOT pour

the concrete. The posts for the hutch should be set after the shed is

framed.

8. TRIM

Apply the sub-fascia & fascia on top of the siding. Apply cove

moulding to trim the bottom and top edges. Add a drip edge at the top

of the fascias under the roof deck. Next cut the cornerboards to fit

between the skirts and fascias. Add the cornerboards to the front and

rear facades, then butt the side cornerboards to them so the caulk

joint does not show from the main facades. Add the door and window

casing and the overdoor and overwindow trim. Add the drip edge to

the side and top edges of the overdoor and overwindow trim.

3. FRAMING

Hang the rim joists on the posts with joist hangers so the outside

faces are flush. Hang the floor joists from the side rim joists using

joist hangers at 16

on center or less. Deck the floor with 23 /32

plywood.

9. RAMP

Make the ramp from 2 x 6 pressure treated joists with 5/4 x 6 decking

nailed on top. Make it long enough that it slopes down at less than a

45 degree angle. Optional: If your ramp is long or steep apply

footholds at 12

on center. Frame the door and window openings leaving

the sole plate under the door. Add a nailing surface if you will be

adding interior sheathing. Nail the walls in place between the 4 x 4

posts using 16 d sinkers.

intervals or at whatever distance is comfortable for

your stride and the angle you have chosen; be sure you can get your

lawnmower or other equipment easily around the footholds. If you are

using the shed for bicycles or a wheelbarrow, two sets of footholds

with a space in between for the wheel would be convenient.

Check the posts to be sure they are plumb and level, and then fill

each posthole with 2 bags of concrete, leaving the top surface sloped

to drain water away from the posts. When the concrete has set

thoroughly, cut the four posts off flush with the side wall plate. Add a

second top plate on top of the side walls extending over the post

tops. Add a second top plate on top of the front and rear walls

lapping the opposite way over the peaks.

10. INTERIOR

Finish the interior to suit your planned use of the shed. Insulation

and Plytanium Ply-Bead Panels will make it cozy and finished. GP

perforated hardboard will make it functional for tool storage. Shelves

and cabinets will be useful for a potting shed if there is water

available nearby. A serious gardener may want a large sink. A

workbench and power source will make a functional workshop.

4. RIDGE AND RAFTERS

Toenail the ridge beam in place between the front and rear walls. Cut

the rafter birdsmouths so the level (seat) cuts are 3 1 /2 long where

they sit on the top plate. The plumb cuts are perpendicular to the seat

cuts. Let the rafter tails run wild (long) to be trimmed later. Lay out

the rafter spacing on the ridge using five rafters evenly spaced on

each side.

11. TRELLIS

Lay out the 2 x 2 lattice work as shown in the elevation drawing.

Where two boards overlap mark the overlaps on both boards with a

pencil line. Cut and chisel out half the depth of the wood between the

pencil lines to make half-lap joints and reassemble the layout with

the boards lapped together. Use vinyl-coated electrical wire to form

support for your plants by weaving it between the boards. When you

are satisfied with the pattern, screw joints together. Hang the trellis

from screw eyes with hooks to make it easy to demount for fall

cleanup and to repaint the wall behind it without uprooting your

plantings.

5. SIDING

Wrap the entire structure with tar paper or building wrap. Nail band

to rim joists, and skirt above band to stud walls. Before cutting the

siding, lay out the cutting lines on the plywood following the enclosed

patterns so that the grooves do not fall on a cornerboard and so the

center of the facade is centered between two grooves. Slip the

flashing for the shed roof and overdoor trim under the siding before

nailing it to the studs, and Z-flashing under the bottom of the siding

and over the skirts.

12. PAINT

Caulk joints carefully except where the siding meets the soffit. Paint

or opaque stain the shed to suit your style preference.

6. ROOF

To calculate the rafter tail length mock-up the fascias on the front

facade following the dotted lines in the detail drawing provided. Cut

the rafter tails so that the fascias will neatly wrap around the building

corners. The grooves in the siding meet the sub-fascia allowing the

roof to vent. Sheath the roof with 15 /32

13. RECYCLING HUTCH

The hutch is built using the same construction techniques and

sequence as the shed except that a ledger board attaches it to the

shed much as a deck is attached to a house. Cut the remaining 8

Plytanium Sheathing. Apply

the roof felt and shingles following manufacturer’s instructions. Cover

the ridge with ridge vent.

Frame the stud walls horizontally on flat ground using standard

construction techniques including a sole plate, a single top plate, and

studs at 16

4 x

4 posts in half to make the two corner posts. Add flashing where the

roof meets the shed siding.

Garden Shed Project Plan

FRONT VIEW

Ridge Cap

SIDE 1

SIDE 2

Small Soffit

Vent

Drip Edge

Fascia

Cove Moulding

Cornerboard

Flashing

Overdoor Trim

Optional

Window

Hook & Eye

Hinge on Pad

Trellis Frame

Wire

Skirt

Band

-0

Door

4-0

12 12 12 12

6-3 3 / 4 Overall

Overall

-0

-6

Overall

-0

Overall

SIDE CUTTING PATTERNS

FRONT

-10

-8

-10

5-10

-10

HUTCH

REAR

-11

-10

SIDE

(cut twice)

3-11 1 / 2

2-10 1 / 2

2-5 1 / 2

-4

2-5 1 / 2

* Use scrap plywood pieces for bracing

only; not a precision cut.

Garden Shed Project Plan

SECTION

EAVE DETAIL

Int. Sheathing

Rafter, Typical

Ridge Beam

Plywd. Deck

Hide-A-Vent

Ridge Cap

APA Rated

Sheathing Roof

Deck

2x6 Roof Rafter

15 / 32

Shingles

15# Felt

Ceiling Break Beyond

Seat Cut

Plumb Cut

Diagonal Brace

2x4 Dr. Stiffeners, Beyond

Drip Edge

1x6 Subfascia

Fascia

Plywood Dr.

Line of Subfascia

On Front Facade

Line of Fascia

On Front Facade

2x4 Threshold

Cove Moulding

Ramp

Joist

Cove Moulding

Joist Hanger

Floor Joist

Plywd. Flr.

Ramp Deck

Footholds, Typical

Skirt

Cornerboard, Beyond

Siding

Interior Sheathing

2x4 Stud Wall

FOOTING DETAIL

Inset of Above

SECTION

Plywood Dr.

2x4 Threshold

Ramp Deck

Footholds, Typical

Ramp Joist

Band Rim Joist

Concrete

Post

Joist

Hanger

-0

F. O . S

7-3 F. O . S

9-3 F. O . S

Georgia-Pacific Corporation

55 Park Place – Atlanta, GA 30303

1-800 BUILD GP

www.gpplytanium.com

Georgia-Pacific Corporation makes no warranties expressed or implied regarding these

plans and specifically disclaims the warranties of merchantability and fitness for a particular

purpose. Check with an architect or a building expert to make sure that these plans are

appropriate to your situation and meet local building codes.

PLYTANIUM is a trademark and PLY-BEAD and PRIMETRIM are registered trademarks of Georgia-Pacific Corporation. STURD-I-FLOOR is a registered trademark of APA — The Engineered Wood Association.

7/03 Lit. Item #011645

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