TemariKaiToolKit-12BaraKagari.pdf

TemariKai ToolKit - Bara (Stitch) / Closest English Equivalent: Rose

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Bara translates from the Japanese to "rose". It has at times taken on the English interpretation of "rose garden" which

seems to be a bit inaccurate. I suspect (my thoughts only) is that because usually more than one element is worked on a

temari within the overall design, that results in more than one "rose"; multiple roses therefore became a "garden".

Technically however, the translation is singular, "rose". The element is made up of layers of a polygon shape, stitched in

an off-set manner. While most commonly seen using squares as the polygon or masu , it can be worked with any shape as

long as there is a set of marking lines for each shape's corners.

Bara is probably noit suggested as a beginners first project for the same reasons as masu is not recommended - a

little practice in general temari making is required to have an overall understanding of the things that help the outcome of

the stitch.

Bara begins with a solid shape/polygon stitched in standard Masu manner. This base shape needs to be accurate or

the rest of the element will be off, and it will get worse as it grows. The design grows in layers as successive shapes are

stitched over the previous, with an opening in the center for the previous rounds to show through. There needs to be a set

of marking lines for each set of corners - so if the Bara is worked in squares, there needs to be eight lines, in two sets of

four.

This example is worked using a square as the polygon. Work a solid base of the selected shape, in

standard Masu style. The number of rounds will be specified in the design, or if you are free

stitching, remember to work enough rounds to compensate for the following layers covering the

corners. After completing the base layer using Lines 1, 2, 3, 4, change to the next color (usually

there is a color change but it's not an absolute requirement). Enter the thread and come up at the

starting point on the alternate set of lines - A,B, C, D. Note the placement of the thread is about 1

thread-width up/away from the previous round. This is to prevent the first layer sides from being

pulled inward or "caving in".

Stitch a square using Lines A, B, C, D, following the usual method of a Masu; take care when

placing the first row of this layer to continue to "stretch" the stitch by placing them just above the

previous layer/row. Continue to work around and work as many rows as required in the design. If

free stitching, this will usually enough to cover the corners of the previous layer. As the design

progresses it often will be the number of rows of the previous layer plus 1 (or more, depending on

the thread being used), but this can vary according to the requirements of the design or your

pleasure

Repeat this sequence, alternating layers until the desired size and depth is achieved. Be sure as

you work to maintain sharpness of the shape, and corners.

The above example shows a Bara worked with

triangles, on a Simple 6.

This example is a traditional square Bara

worked on an 8 Combination.

The above example is worked on a Simple 8; as the layers progress wider and outward on the

ball, the spherical nature interacts to give the curved effects of the edges of the layers.

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