How To Grow Marijuana.pdf

How to grow Marijuana courtesy of the Jolly Roger

MARIJUANA

Marijuana is a deciduous plant which grows from seeds. The fibrous section of the plant was (has been

replaced by synthetics) used to make rope. The flowering tops, leaves, seeds, and resin of the plant is

used by just about everyone to get HIGH. Normally, the vegetable parts of the plant are smoked to produce

this "high," but they can also be eaten. The active ingredient in marijuana resin is THC

(tetrahydrocannabinol). Marijuana contains from 1 - 4 percent THC (4 per cent must be considered GOOD

dope). Marijuana grows wild in many parts of the world, and is cultivated in Mexico, Vietnam, Africa,

Nepal, India, South America, etc. The marijuana sold in the United States comes primarily from, yes, the

United States. It is estimated that at least 50 per cent of the grass on the streets in America is homegrown.

The next largest bunch comes across the border from Mexico, with smaller amounts filtering in from

Panama, occasionally South America, and occasionally, Africa.

Hashish is the pure resin of the marijuana plant, which is scraped from the flowering tops of the plant and

lumped together. Ganja is the ground-up tops of the finest plants. (It is also the name given to any sort of

marijuana in Jamaica.) Marijuana will deteriorate in about two years if exposed to light, air or heat. It

should always be stored in cool places. Grass prices in the United States are a direct reflection of the laws

of supply and demand (and you thought that high school economics would never be useful). A series of

large border busts, a short growing season, a bad crop, any number of things can drive the price of

marijuana up. Demand still seems to be on the increase in the U.S., so prices seldom fall below last year's

level. Each year, a small seasonal drought occurs, as last year's supply runs low, and next year's crop is not

up yet. Prices usually increase about 20 - 75 per cent during this time and then fall back to "normal."

Unquestionably, a large shortage of grass causes a percentage of smokers to turn to harder drugs instead.

For this reason, no grass control program can ever be beneficial or "successful."

GROW IT!

There is one surefire way of avoiding high prices and the grass DT's: Grow your own. This is not as difficult

as some "authorities" on the subject would make you believe. Marijuana is a weed, and a fairly vivacious

one at that, and it will grow almost in spite of you.

OUTDOORS

Contrary to popular belief, grass grows well in many place on the North American continent. It will flourish

even if the temperature does not raise above 75 degrees. The plants do need a minimum of eight hours of

sunlight per day and should be planted in late April/early May, BUT DEFINITELY, after the

last frost of the year. Growing an outdoor, or "au naturel", crop has been the favored method over the years,

because grass seems to grow better without as much attention when in its natural habitat.

Of course, an outdoors setting requires special precautions not encountered with an indoors crop; you must

be able to avoid detection, both from law enforcement freaks and common freaks, both of whom will take

your weed and probably use it. Of course, one will also arrest you. You must also have access to the area to

prepare the soil and harvest the crop. There are two schools of thought about starting the seeds. One says

you should start the seedlings for about ten days in an indoor starter box (see the indoor section) and then

transplant. The other theory is that you should just start them in the correct location. Fewer plants will come

up with this method, but there is no shock of transplant to kill some of the seedlings halfway through.

The soil should be prepared for the little devils by turning it over a couple of times and adding about one

cup of hydrated lime per square yard of soil and a little bit (not too much, now) of good water soluble

nitrogen fertilizer. The soil should now be watered several times and left to sit about one week. The plants

should be planted at least three feet apart, getting too greedy and stacking them too close will result in

stunted plants. The plants like some water during their growing season, BUT not too much. This is

especially true around the roots, as too much water will rot the root system. Grass grows well in corn or

hops, and these plants will help provide some camouflage. It does not grow well with rye, spinach, or

pepper weed. It is probably a good idea to plant in many small, broken patches, as people tend to notice

patterns.

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How to grow Marijuana courtesy of the Jolly Roger

GENERAL GROWING INFO

Both the male and he female plant will produce THC resin, although the male is not as strong as the female.

In a good crop, the male will still be quite smokeable and should not be thrown away under any

circumstances.

Marijuana can reach a height of twenty feet (or would you rather wish on a star) and obtain a diameter of 4

1/2 inches. If normal, it has a sex ratio of about 1:1, but this can be altered in several ways. The male plant

dies in the 12th week of growing, the female will live another 3 - 5 weeks to produce her young ones.

Females can weigh twice as much as males when they are mature. Marijuana soil should compact when you

squeeze it, but should also break apart with a small pressure and absorb water well. A nice test for either

indoor or outdoor growing is to add a bunch of worms to the soil, if they live and hang around, it is good

soil, but if they don't, well, change it. Worms also help keep the soil loose enough for the plants to grow

well.

SEEDS

To get good grass, you should start with the right seeds. A nice starting point is to save the seeds form the

best batch you have consumed. The seeds should be virile, that is, they should not be grey and shriveled

up, but green, meaty, and healthy appearing. A nice test is to drop the seeds on a hot frying pan. If they

"CRACK," they are probably good for planting purposes. The seeds should be soaked in distilled water

overnight before planting. BE SURE to plant in the ground with the pointy end UP. Plant about 1/2" deep.

Healthy seeds will sprout in about five days.

SPROUTING

The best all around sprouting method is probably to make a sprouting box (as sold in nurseries) with a

slated bottom or use paper cups with holes punched in the bottoms. The sprouting soil should be a mixture

of humus, soil, and five sand with a bit of organic fertilizer and water mixed in about one week before

planting. When ready to transplant, you must be sure and leave a ball of soil around the roots of each plant.

This whole ball is dropped into a baseball-sized hold in the permanent soil. If you are growing,

transplanting indoors, you should use a green safe light (purchased at nurseries) during the transplanting

operation. If you are transplanting outdoors, you should time it about two hours before sunset to avoid

damage to the plant. Always wear cotton gloves when handling the young plants. After the plants are set in

the hole, you should water them. It is also a good idea to use a commercial transplant chemical (also

purchased at nurseries) to help then overcome the shock.

INDOOR GROWING

Indoor growing has many advantages, besides the apparent fact that it is much harder to have your crop

"found," you can control the ambient conditions just exactly as you want them and get a guaranteed "good"

plant. Plants grown indoors will not appear the same as their outdoor cousins. They will be scrawnier

appearing with a weak stems and may even require you to tie them to a growing post to remain upright,

BUT THEY WILL HAVE AS MUCH OR MORE RESIN!

If growing in a room, you should put tar paper on the floors and then buy sterilized bags of soil form a

nursery. You will need about one cubic foot of soil for each plant. The plants will need about 150 ml. of

water per plant/per week. They will also need fresh air, so the room must be ventilated. However, the fresh

air should contain NO TOBACCO smoke. At least eight hours of light a day must be provided. As you

increase the light, the plants grow faster and show more females/less males. Sixteen hours of light per day

seems to be the best combination, beyond this makes little or no appreciable difference in the plant quality.

Another idea is to interrupt the night cycle with about one hour of light. This gives you more females. The

walls of your growing room should be painted white or covered with aluminum foil to reflect the light. The

lights themselves can be either bulbs of fluorescent. Figure about 75 watts per plant or one plant per two

feet of florescent tube. The fluorescents are the best, but do not use "cool white" types. The light sources

should be an average of twenty inches from the plant and NEVER closer than 14 inches. They may be

mounted on a rack and moved every few days as the plants grow. The very best light sources are those made

by Sylvania and others especially for growing plants (such as the "Gro-Lux" types).

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How to grow Marijuana courtesy of the Jolly Roger

HARVESTING AND DRYING

The male plants will be taller and have about five green or yellow sepals, which will split open to fertilize

the female plant with pollen. The female plant is shorter and has a small pistillate flower, which really

doesn't look like a flower at all but rather a small bunch of eaves in a cluster. If you don't want any seeds,

just good dope, you should pick the males before they shed their pollen as the female will use some of her

resin t make the seeds. After another three to five weeks, after the males are gone, the females will begin to

wither and die (from loneliness?), this is the time to pick. In some nefarious Middle Eastern countries,

farmers reportedly put their beehives next to fields of marijuana. The little devils collect the grass pollen for

their honey, which is supposed to contain a fair dosage of THC. The honey is then enjoyed by conventional

methods or made into ambrosia. If you want seeds - let the males shed his pollen then pick him. Let the

female go another month and pick her. To cure the plants, they must be dried. On large crops, this is

accomplished by constructing a drying box or drying room. You must have a heat source (such as an

electric heater) which will make the box/room each 130 degrees. The box/room must be ventilated to carry

off the water-vapor-laden air and replace it with fresh. A good box can be constructed from an orange crate

with fiberglass insulated walls, vents in the tops, and screen shelves to hold the leaves. There must be a

baffle between the leaves and the heat source. A quick cure for smaller amounts is to: cut the plant at the

soil level and wrap it in a cloth so as not to loose any leaves. Take out any seeds by hand and store. Place all

the leaves on a cookie sheet or aluminum foil and put them in the middle shelf of the oven, which is set on

"broil." In a few seconds, the leaves will smoke and curl up, stir them around and give it another ten

seconds before you take them out.

TO INCREASE THE GOOD STUFF

There are several tricks to increase the number of females, and the THC content of plants: You can make

the plants mature in 36 days if you are in a hurry, by cutting back on the light to about 14 hours, but the

plants will not be as big. You should gradually shorten the light cycle until you reach fourteen hours. You

can stop any watering as the plants begin to bake the resin rise to the flowers. This will increase the resin a

bit. You can use a sunlamp on the plants as they begin to develop flower stalks. You can snip off the flower,

right at the spot where it joins the plant, and a new flower will form in a couple of weeks. This can be

repeated two or three times to get several times more flowers than usual. If the plants are sprayed with

Ethrel early in their growing stage, they will produce almost all female plants. This usually speeds up the

flowering. It may happen in as little as two weeks. You can employ a growth changer called colchicine. This

is a bit hard to get and expensive. (Should be ordered through a lab of some sort and it costs about $35 a

gram.) To use the colchicine, you should prepare your presoaking solution of distilled water with about 0.10

per cent colchicine. This will cause many of the seeds to die and not germinate, but the ones that do come

up will be polyploid plants. This is the accepted difference between such strains as "gold" and normal grass,

and yours will DEFINITELY be superweed. The problem here is that colchicine is a poison in larger

quantities and may be poisonous in the first generation of plants. Bill Frake, author

of the CONNOISSEUR'S HANDBOOK OF MARIJUANA runs a very complete colchicine treatment down

and warns against smoking the first generation plants (all succeeding generations will also be polyploid)

because of this poisonous quality. However, the Medical Index shows colchicine being given in very small

quantities to people for treatment if various ailments. Although these quantities are small, they would

appear to be larger than any you could receive form smoking a seed-treated plant. It would be a good idea

to buy a copy of CONNOISSEUR'S, if you are planning to attempt this, and read Mr. Drake's complete

instructions. Another still-experimental process to increase the resin it to pinch off the leaf tips as soon as

they appear from the time the plant is in the seedling stage on through its entire life-span. This produces a

distorted, wrecked-looking plant which would be very difficult to recognize as marijuana. Of course, there

is less substance to this plant, but such wrecked creatures have been known to produce so much resin that it

crystallizes a strong hash all over the surface of the plant. It might be wise to try it on a plant or two and see

what happens.

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How to grow Marijuana courtesy of the Jolly Roger

PLANT PROBLEM CHART

Always check the overall environmental conditions prior to passing judgment - soil around 7 pH or slightly

less - plenty of water, light, fresh air, loose soil, no water standing in pools.

SYMPTOM

PROBABLE PROBLEM - CURE

Larger leaves turning yellow -

Nitrogen deficiency – add nitrate of soda or organic fertilizer.

smaller leaves still green.

Older leaves will curl at edges,

Phosphorus deficiency - add commercial phosphate.

turn dark, possibly with a purple cast.

Mature leaves develop a yellowish Magnesium deficiency - add commercial fertilizer

cast to least venial areas. with a magnesium content.

Mature leaves turn yellow and then

Potassium deficiency - add muriate of potash.

become spotted with edge areas

turning dark grey.

Cracked stems, no healthy support

Boron deficiency – add any plant food containing boron.

tissue.

Small wrinkled leaves with

Zinc deficiency – add commercial plant food containing zinc.

yellowish vein systems.

Young leaves become deformed,

Molybdenum deficiency - use any plant food with a bit of

molybdenum possibly yellowing.

in it.

BAD WEED/GOOD WEED

Can you turn bad weed into good weed? Surprisingly enough, the answer to this oft-asked inquiry is, yes!

Like most other things in life, the amount of good you are going to do relates directly to how much effort

you are going to put into it. There are no instant, supermarket products which you can spray on Kansas

catnip and have wonder weed, but there are a number of simplified, inexpensive processes (Gee, Mr.

Wizard!) this will enhance mediocre grass somewhat, ant there are a couple of fairly involved processes

which will do up even almost-parsley weed into something worth writing home about.

EASES

1. Place the dope in a container which allows air to enter in a restricted fashion (such as a can with nail

holes punched in its lid) and add a bunch of dry ice, and the place the whole shebang in the freezer for a few

days. This process will add a certain amount of potency to the product. However, this only works with dry

ice, if you use normal, everyday freezer ice, you will end up with a soggy mess...

2. Take a quantity of grass and dampen it, place in a baggie or another socially acceptable container, and

store it in a dark, dampish place for a couple of weeks (burying it also seems to work). The grass will

develop a mold which tastes a bit harsh, a and burns a tiny bit funny, but does increase the potency.

3. Expose the grass to the high intensity light of a sunlamp for a full day or so. Personally, I don't feel that

this is worth the effort, but if you just spent $400 of your friend's money for this brick of super-Colombian,

right-from-the-President's-personal-stash, and it turns out to be Missouri weed, and you're packing your

bags to leave town before the people arrive for their shares, well, you might at least try it. It can't hurt.

4. Take the undesirable portions of our stash (stems, seeds, weak weed, worms, etc.) and place them in a

covered pot, with enough rubbing alcohol to cover everything. Now CAREFULLY boil the mixture on an

ELECTRIC stove or lab burner. DO NOT USE GAS - the alcohol is too flammable. After 45 minutes of

heat, remove the pot and strain the solids out, SAVING THE ALCOHOL. Now, repeat the process with the

same residuals, but fresh alcohol. When the second boil is over, remove the solids again, combine the two

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How to grow Marijuana courtesy of the Jolly Roger

quantities of alcohol and boil until you have a syrupy mixture. Now, this syrupy mixture will contain much

of the THC formerly hidden in the stems and such. One simply takes this syrup and thoroughly combine it

with the grass that one wishes to improve upon.

MARYGIN

Marygin is an anagram of the words marijuana and gin, as in Eli Whitney. It is a plastic tumbler which acts

much like a commercial cotton gin. One takes about one ounce of an herb and break it up. This is then

placed in the Marygin and the protruding knob is rotated. This action turns the internal wheel, which

separates the grass from the debris (seeds and stems). It does not pulverize the grass as screens have a habit

of doing and is easily washable. Marygin is available from: P.O. Box 5827 Tuscon, Arizona 85703 ($5)

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