Oak Pie Safe.pdf

WOODWORKS: ADVANCED PROJECT 2001-2002

OAK PIE SAFE

Build a brand-new antique! This versatile classic goes together fast with biscuit joinery.

• Built of solid oak in a simple, modified-Shaker style, this pie safe blends easily into most any décor. Adjustable shelves and a pair of

drawers make it a versatile storage cabinet for more than just cooling off fresh-baked pies. The pierced-tin panels can also provide

ventilation for a modern sound system. Or, you can use this cabinet to store clothing and take some of the pressure off an overstuffed

closet or bureau.

• Biscuits make the joinery on this project as easy as pie. If you’ve never made a project of this scale before, or are new to biscuit

joinery, this is the perfect place to start. You’ll need to know how to make stopped rabbets for the back and dadoes for the drawers,

but hanging the flush-fit doors is a breeze with no-mortise hinges.

This pie safe gives advanced woodworking students the opportunity to employ a number of their skills, including biscuit joinery for

edges and corners, making templates, measuring, cutting, marking, gluing, clamping and mitering. And after you build the pie safe,

you’ll learn how to apply stains and finishes to protect the wood and keep it looking beautiful.

–1–

CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: ADVANCED PROJECT 2001-2002 OAK PIE SAFE

TOOLS REQUIRED

Hand tools

– Hold-down clamps

– Pipe or bar clamps at least 4 ’ long

– Combination square

– Carpenter’s square

– Hole punch

– Lampmaker’s chisel

Power Tools

– Biscuit joiner

– Table saw

– Router with a 3/8 ” rabbeting bit

– Jigsaw

Miscellaneous

– Pencil

– Carpenter’s glue

– Safety glasses

SHOPPING LIST

CUTTING LIST

Item

Quantity

OAK PIE SAFE 57-3/4 ” H x 42-1/2 ” W x 16 ” D

Part

4/4 oak

100 board feet

Name

Qty.

Dimensions

1/4 ” oak plywood

1 4 ’ x8 ’ sheet

CARCASS Oak hardwood

1/4 ” diameter brass shelf supports

top

3/4 x 17 x 42-1/2

1-1/4 ” diameter wood knobs

sides

3/4 x 15-1/4 x 57

Tin for pierced panels

4 pcs., 10 ” x14 ”

shelves

3/4 x 15 x 39

#20 biscuits

150

back rail

3/4 x 4 x 39

Brads, 3/4 ” , 1 ” , 1-1/4 ” long

1 box each size

drawer kickers

3/4 x 2 x 15

#10 x 1-1/4 ” pan head screw w/ flat washer

drawer runners

3/4 x 1-1/2 x 15

#4 x 5/8 ” flat head screw

doorstop

3/4 x 1-1/2 x 3

#10 x 1-1/4 ” flat head screw

drawer runner cleats

3/4 x 1-5/16 x 39

No-mortise hinges

drawer kicker cleats

3/4 x 1-1/16 x 39

molding

3/4 x 3/4 x 42

molding

3/4 x 3/4 x 16-3/4

WOOD FINISHING PRODUCTS

(Choose the recommended stain/finish or create

your own combination)

drawer runners

3/4 x 3/4 x 15

door latch

1/2 x 7/8 x 2-1/2

Recommended finish

Stain: Minwax ® Wood Finish TM Cherry (or any color

you prefer)

Finish: Minwax ® Fast-Drying Polyurethane Satin

FACE FRAME Oak hardwood

face stiles

3/4 x 3 x 57

top rail

3/4 x 2-3/4 x 34-1/2

lower rails

3/4 x 2 x 34-1/2

drawer divider mullion

3/4 x 2 x 6-1/2

Alternate Finishes

Stain: Minwax ® Gel Stain in Cherrywood (or any

color you prefer)

Finish: Minwax ® Fast-Drying Polyurethane Satin

DOORS Oak hardwood

door stiles

3/4 x 2 x 35-3/4

door rails

3/4 x 2 x 13-1/4

tin panel stops

3/8 x 3/8 x 15

Miscellaneous

Sandpaper

Gloves for finishing

Clean, lint-free rags for wiping

Mineral spirits

Minwax ® Wood Putty

Minwax ® Finishing Brushes

Water-filled metal container with tight-fitting lid

DRAWERS Oak hardwood

drawer fronts

3/4 x 6-3/8 x 16-1/8

drawer sides

1/2 x 6-3/8 x 15-1/2

drawer backs

1/2 x 5-7/8 x 15-5/8

OAK PLYWOOD

back

1/4 x 39-3/4 x 48-3/16

drawer bottoms

1/4 x 14-3/4 x 15-5/8

–2–

CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: ADVANCED PROJECT 2001-2002 OAK PIE SAFE

BEFORE YOU BEGIN

Good craftsmanship begins and ends with good work habits, so make

the following steps part of your routine workshop practice. If you have

any doubts or questions about how to proceed with a project, always

discuss them with your shop instructor.

• Carefully and fully review plans and instructions before putting a tool

to the project lumber.

• Work sensibly and safely. Wear safety goggles when doing work that

creates flying chips and sawdust; wear the appropriate mask or

respirator whenever making sawdust or working with thinners or

other solvents.

• At the end of every work session, clean up your shop area and put

away all portable tools.

THE CARCASS

1. Lay out and cut the biscuit slots for the top (A), sides (B) and

shelves (C).

Woodworker’s Tip: Cut the biscuit slots about 6 ” apart for edge

joining. The biscuits align the surface of the boards and produce

flush joints that will require little sanding. You don’t want to

expose a biscuit joint when making your final cuts, so keep your

biscuits at least 3 ” away from the ends of the top (A) and the leg

cutout area on the sides (B).

2. Dry-fit then glue-up and clamp the top (A), sides (B) and

shelves (C); after the glue has dried, cut these pieces to length.

3. Use the leg patterns (shown in Fig. A) to lay out the shapes on the

bottoms of the sides (B). Cut them out with a jigsaw.

4. Use a table saw to cut the rabbet on the back rail (D) for the

back (Z). Use a router with a 3/8 ” rabbeting bit to cut the stop rabbet

on the sides for the back.

5. Lay out the fixed shelf locations on the cabinet sides, then cut the

biscuit slots for the shelves and the back rail.

CUTTING AND ASSEMBLY

PROCEDURE

Refer to the project illustrations shown on pages 7, 8 and 9.

Woodworker’s Tip: Sort your wood for grain and color. Select

flat, straight-grained wood for the doors and face frame. This is

one place you can’t afford any warping. Cut the drawer fronts

(W) from a single board so the grain flows from one drawer to the

next. Choose boards with compatible figure and color for the sides

(B) and top (A). Use the less desirable pieces for shelving.

Woodworker’s Tip: Cut the slots in the end of a shelf (C) with

the base of the plate joiner on the cabinet side (B). Clamp the

shelf on the side so the top edge of the shelf lines up with the top

edge of the layout mark on the side. Mark for biscuits in the mid-

dle of the shelf and 3 inches in from each end. Cut the slots in the

side (B) with the plate joiner held vertical, using the markings on

the shelf.

Woodworker’s Tips: There are three common sizes of biscuits:

#20, #10 and #0. Number 20 biscuits offer the greatest gluing sur-

face and are, therefore, the strongest. Use these whenever possible

even if it results in the biscuit “breaking out” of the joint. In this

project, breakouts occur on the face frame and door frames where

narrow rails join the stile. But they won’t be a problem if you off-

set the center mark for the biscuits so the breakout won’t be seen.

We did this on the face frame so the biscuits break out where the

drawers and top cover them (see Fig. D). Breakouts on the door

frames are covered by the stops for the tin panels. The top-rail

biscuits on the door frames are also offset to keep the top edge of

the door clean (Fig. B). Use the following tips to get better results

with your biscuit joinery.

• Take the time to dry-fit each assembly using all the biscuits and

clamps you’ll need for the real thing. You’ll be able to rehearse your

glue-up and red-flag any misaligned biscuits.

• Assembly with biscuits needs to go smoothly because the biscuits

swell quickly once glue is applied. For a more-relaxed assembly, use

an extended-open-time glue.

• Getting glue in the biscuit slots can be a bit messy. Just squirt a bead

into the groove and spread it along both side walls of the slot with a

small glue brush.

• If you accidentally cut a biscuit slot where none belonged, and it’s

on an exposed edge, you can make a nearly invisible repair. Use a

compass to mark a 4 ” - diameter circle in some oak that’s 5/32 ”

thick. Cut it out on the bandsaw and then glue the circle into the

bad slot, cleaning up any excess glue. After the glue dries, flush-cut

the repair and sand the edge smooth.

6. Drill holes for adjustable shelf pins.

Woodworker’s Tip: An accurate way to drill for adjustable shelf

pins is to use a perf-board template. Mark the bottom and back

edge to correctly register the template on the other side of the

cabinet. Mark the holes to be drilled (every other hole gives a 2 ”

spacing) and use a sharp brad-point bit. Fasten a metal depth-

stop ring to the bit or use your own depth stop made from 3/4 ”

x 3/4 ” stock that’s drilled down the center and cut to length.

7. Finish-sand all the pieces starting with 120-grit paper and working

your way to 220-grit.

8. Dry-fit and glue the carcass. Use four clamps and some cauls for the

shelves and a fifth clamp for the back rail. Be sure the carcass is glued-

up square.

Woodworker’s Tip: When doing the above assembly, make a few

clamping cauls to ensure that the sides and top will be flat (see

Fig. E). A caul is used to distribute clamping pressure across a wide

joint. Make your cauls from 2x4s cut to the width of the cabinet.

The wood should be well dried and square on all four sides. Choose

one of the edges and plane or sand a 1/16 ” crown into it, marking

the crown with an arrow.

9. Glue the drawer kicker cleats (J) to the bottom of the lower shelf.

If you have a pneumatic brad nailer, tack the cleat in place first so it

won’t slide around when you apply the clamps.

–3–

CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: ADVANCED PROJECT 2001-2002 OAK PIE SAFE

THE FACE FRAME

10. Lay out the face frame, as shown in Fig. D.

19. Assemble the drawer runners (F and M) and position them on the

cleats so they set 1/16 ” into the drawer openings (see Fig. C). Attach

the runners to the front cleat only (see Fig. C). You’ll attach the back of

the runners later.

20. Attach the top (see Fig. A).

21. Make the oak quarter-round molding (K and L) from a 3 ” - wide

piece of oak. Round over the two long edges with a router and a 3/4 ”

round-over bit. Rip the moldings off the piece and cut to fit. Glue and

nail the front molding in place. Nail the side moldings in place but only

glue the miter joint and the first couple of inches at the front of the

case. This will keep the miter joint tight but still allow the carcass to

move with the seasons.

Woodworker’s Tip: Labeling your project parts with letters and

numbers works fine when you’re dealing with a few pieces. But if

your pile of parts gets mixed up, it can take a while to sort things

out again. The cabinetmaker’s triangle allows you to instantly

identify the location and orientation of each individual piece.

Here’s how it works: Group your frame members face-side up in

the same orientation they will have when assembled (stiles are

vertical, rails are horizontal, etc.). Mark each group with a trian-

gle that points up toward the top of the cabinet. (With parts like

the top and shelves, the triangle will point to the back of the cabi-

net.) The triangle leaves two lines on each piece, making identifi-

cation a snap (See Figs. B and D). If two or more assemblies are

identical, like our pair of doors, add an extra line along the

triangle’s side for the rails and along the bottom for the stiles.

THE DOORS

22. Use a table saw to cut the rabbets on the back edges of the door

rails (U).

23. Cut biscuit slots, dry-fit, glue and clamp the door frames.

Woodworker’s Tip: Group the face-frame stiles and rails

together and orient them as they will be on the cabinet. Use the

combination square to mark the precise position of each rail on

the stiles. Make these lines light and long to distinguish them from

your biscuit marks. Now, decide where an offset is needed to dis-

guise any biscuit breakout. To figure out how much to offset the

bottom rail, for example, subtract the width of the rail (2 ” ) from

the width of the slot made by the joiner (2-3/4 ” ). If you centered

the biscuit on the rail, the slot would break out 3/8 ” on each side.

To keep the biscuit inside the drawer opening, you’ll need to off-

set the cut 3/8 ” toward the opening. Add 1/8 ” for insurance and

you have an offset of 1/2 ” .

Woodworker’s Tip: Assemble your door frames on a perfectly flat

surface using identical clamps. This helps ensure a flat door and

saves all kinds of headaches later. Spacer sticks hold the frame up

off the clamps (so it won’t get stained by the metal) and in line

with the clamp screw pressure (so it won’t get twisted).

24. Finish the rabbets on the doors with a router fitted with a 3/8 ” rab-

beting bit; this will also trim the protruding biscuits. Square the corners

with a sharp chisel.

25. Fit the doors into the face-frame opening.

26. Make the door latch (N) and the door stop(G); mount only the

door stop at this time (see Fig. A).

27. Make the tin panel stops (V) and miter them so they fit in place,

but don’t attach them yet.

11. Cut the biscuit slots and dry-fit the face frame.

Woodworker’s Tip: Cut slots in the ends of narrow parts, like

this face frame rail, using a simple jig to steady the work and

provide a wider surface for the plate joiner fence. We used a

12 ” x 30 ” piece of melamine with a 3 ” x 18 ” piece of hardwood

centered along the edge. Add a couple of hold-down clamps.

Note in Fig. D how the cabinetmaker’s triangle identifies the

piece being cut as the top rail.

THE DRAWERS

28. Cut the dadoes and rabbets in the drawer fronts (W) and sides (X).

29. Finish-sand the insides of the drawer pieces, then glue and nail the

drawers together making sure they are square.

30. Finish-sand the outside of the drawers.

31. Attach the drawer runners to the drawer runner cleat.

Woodworker’s Tip: Mark the position of the drawer runners on

the lower back support cleat. Have the drawer in place with even

margins around the opening and enough room between the slides

and drawer sides for smooth operation. Remove the drawer and

fasten the runners with screws.

12. If you are mortising in your hinges, now’s the time to lay out and

cut the hinge mortises on the inside edges of the face stiles.

13. Lay out and cut the leg profiles on the bottom of each stile (see

Fig. A).

14. Begin the glue-up with the drawer divider mullion (S) and the

lower rails (R). Then glue the rest of the face frame together.

15. Trim any protruding biscuits and finish sand.

32. Drill holes for the door and drawer knobs.

33. Attach the back with screws. Screws allow you to easily remove the

back for finishing and you won’t be accidentally driving nails through

the side of the cabinet.

FINAL ASSEMBLY

16. Glue the face frame assembly to the carcass. Tack the face frame in

position with brads before applying clamps. Trim the face frame over-

hang with a flush-trim bit in a router.

17. Center the drawer kickers (E) in the drawer openings and attach

them to the kicker cleats with a #6 x 1-1/2 ” screw.

18. Attach the drawer runner cleats (H, see Fig. C) with a brad, glue

and clamp.

–4–

CONTINUED - WOODWORKS: ADVANCED PROJECT 2001-2002 OAK PIE SAFE

THE TIN PANELS

The pattern used in this project is a Lacework stencil, which is available

from Country Accents (pattern #1004P, phone: 570 478-4127), or visit

www.piercedtin.com. Country Accents can also supply the 10 ” x 14 ”

tin blanks and the hole punch and lampmaker’s chisel. If you’d rather

develop your own pattern, look through books about American quilts,

where you’ll find ideas for all sorts of geometric and floral designs.

As was done with the Lacework pattern, the hole punch makes round

holes, which should be spaced at roughly 1/4 ” intervals, and the lamp-

maker’s chisel makes the elongated perforations.

Expect to spend 30 to 40 minutes punching each panel. Don’t try

to do all six in a row or you’ll feel like punching more than tin. Take it

easy and spread the job over a few sessions. Wear gloves when han-

dling the tin to keep from etching in your fingerprints. The stencil kit

comes with complete directions, but you basically just secure the tin to

a piece of particleboard, tape the pattern to the tin with masking tape

and have at it with the punch and chisel.

Woodworker’s Tip: When wiping off stain, make certain that

your last wipe with the cloth goes with the grain of the wood. This

way, any stain you might miss during wipe-off will be visually

minimized by the wood grain.

35. Apply Minwax ® Fast-Drying Polyurethane following the directions

on the can. Use a brush intended for use with Polyurethane. Allow the

first coat to dry overnight.

36. The next day, sand all surfaces lightly with 220-grit paper using

with-the-grain strokes. Dust off and wipe all surfaces with a cloth

dampened with mineral spirits. Apply a second coat of Polyurethane

and set the piece aside to cure overnight.

37. The next day, sand all surfaces lightly with 220-grit paper. Dust off

and wipe the piece with a cloth dampened with mineral spirits and

apply the third and final coat of Polyurethane.

38. Follow these same steps for finishing the knobs, the door latch

(N) and the back (Z) separately, after first removing the back from the

cabinet. Allow the cabinet and these pieces to cure for several days

before doing the next steps.

39. Mount the tin panels in the doors, hang the doors and attach

the knobs and the latch.

40. Attach the back and stand back to admire your work. Just think ,

food safes like this used to hold biscuits; now they’re held together

by them!

STAINING AND FINISHING

Woodworker’s Tip: Though you may be tempted to cut short

your sanding and wiping time, don’t do it. Both of these tasks

are very important steps in obtaining a high-quality finish.

Remember, it is the finish, just as much as the fit and smoothness

of the parts, that will have great bearing on how people judge your

craftsmanship. To ensure an excellent result, follow the steps

listed below and also the instructions the finish manufacturer

puts on its products.

FINISHING TIPS

• Use scraps of wood to test the stains and finishes you are planning to

use. On the back of the scrap, mark the stain/finish combination and

the type of wood. Allow all samples to dry thoroughly before making

your final finish selection. Save your samples for quick reference

on future projects.

• All stains and finishes must be allowed to dry thoroughly between

coats. Remember that drying times can vary due to humidity and

other climate conditions.

• If you have some leftover stain or finish, wipe the can rim so that

stain or finish in the rim won’t dry out and prevent the lid from

forming a tight seal.

• Brushes used for oil-based finishes must be cleaned with mineral

spirits; for water-based products such as Minwax ® Polycrylic ®

Protective Finish, clean brushes with warm water and soap.

34. Finish-sand the outside surfaces and ease all the edges. Vacuum

the inside and wipe the entire piece down with a cloth dampened with

mineral spirits.

NOTE: Whichever stain you choose, do the staining in two steps, start-

ing on the interior surfaces and then moving to the exterior surfaces.

Apply the Minwax ® Wood Finish or Gel Stain you’ve chosen to the inte-

rior surfaces using a clean, lint-free rag. Allow the stain to set for about

10 to 15 minutes then wipe off any excess. Repeat for the exterior

surfaces. Allow the stain to dry for 24 hours before applying the finish.

–5–

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