Kodak - Darkroom Design for Amateur Photographers.pdf - Fotografia - gomez666chomikuj.pl

TECHNICAL DATA / REFERENCE

March 2005

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Darkroom Design for Amateur

Photographers

When you take a pleasing photograph, develop the film, and

make a print, there is a lot of satisfaction in knowing the

photograph is all yours—you carried it through from start to

finish. In addition to the advantage of being able to do your

own custom darkroom work, we think you will get a lot of

enjoyment out of developing and printing your own film. The

first thing you will need is a darkroom.

Safelights

Arrange your safelights so that they provide as much light as

possible, but keep them at a safe distance—at least 4 feet

(1.2 metres)—from your working area. Use a safelight

equipped with a bulb and the filter recommended on the

paper (or film) instruction sheet You can make a simple

safe-light test as described below. This test can be performed

with both black-and-white and color materials.

1. Set your enlarging easel to give 1

DARKROOM PLANNING

How elaborate you make your darkroom will depend

primarily on your need, finances, and space. To develop an

occasional roll of black-and-white film, almost any

makeshift arrangement will do. If you want to make prints

and enlargements as well, you may want a well-equipped

room that is conveniently arranged and properly heated,

lighted, and ventilated.

The room must be lighttight. To check for stray light, stay

in the darkroom for 5 minutes with all the lights turned off.

After 5 minutes, if you still cannot see a sheet of white paper

placed against a dark background, the room passes

inspection. If there are light leaks, you will be able to see

them because your eyes will have become adapted to the

dark. Eliminate small light leaks with black tape. For large

ones, such as a crack around a door, use dark heavy cloth or

weather stripping.

For your health and comfort, make sure your darkroom is

properly vented to allow fresh air into the room, especially

during chemical mixing and processing operations. Check

with your photo supply dealer for availability of lighttight

vents, or check the photo magazines at your local library for

articles on building lighttight ventilators. Also, be sure to

follow the safety recommendations given in the instructions,

labels, and Material Safety Data Sheets for the processing

chemicals. The Material Safety Data Sheet (MSDS) is

available for every KODAK Chemical, and tells you how to

store, handle, and potential hazards of these products, along

with recommendations for first aid and cleanup of spills. For

further information on darkroom venting and safe handling

of chemicals, refer to the Safe Handling of Kodak Processing

Chemicals section on page 5 of this publication.

⁄ 2 -inch (13-millimetre)

white borders for the paper size you will use in the test

2. Place a normal-contrast negative typical of your work in

the enlarger. Be sure the clear borders of the negative

are completely masked.

3. Size and focus the image on the easel.

4. With all safelights on, make a good-quality print on a

photographic paper yielding normal contrast Develop

for the recommended time in your paper developer.

Mark this print #1.

5. Turn the safelights off. In total darkness, expose and

process print #2 in the same way as print #1.

6. Keeping the safelights off, expose print #3 in the same

way as print #2. Do not develop print #3.

7. With the safelights still off, place a piece of cardboard

over the developing tray and put print #3 on it, emulsion

side up. Safelight illumination is generally brightest in

this location. Cover one-fourth of the print with an

opaque card and turn on all the safelights. In the same

way that you would make an exposure test strip, expose

print #3 to the safelight for 1, 2 and 4 minutes, in steps.

This gives four steps with safelight exposures of 0, 1, 3,

and 7 minutes superimposed on the image exposure.

Develop the print for the same length of time as print #1

and #2, with safelights turned off.

8. Fix, wash, and dry all the prints in the normal manner.

9. Compare the prints. Prints #1 and #2 should be identical.

If print #1 shows lower contrast or fogged highlights

when compared with #2, you have a serious safelight

problem. Be sure that the safelight filters (especially the

one over the developing tray), bulb wattage, and

distance and number of safelights are consistent with the

recommendations on the paper instruction sheet If all

three prints are identical, your safelight conditions are

good. If print #3 shows slight fogging of highlights in

any of the safelight exposure areas, it is a warning to

limit the time of exposure to safe-light illumination to a

time that will produce no fogging. Note that fogging

from safelight illumination will show up in areas that

have already received some exposure before it will

show up in the white borders. For this reason, safelight

fog may go unnoticed unless the safelights are tested

correctly.

©Eastman Kodak Company, 2005

•

In planning a darkroom, the main objective is to arrange

your equipment and materials for efficiency and

convenience. One of the most important requirements is to

provide for a flow of work that can be done in the least

amount of time with minimum effort. Another consideration

is cost. Here are some desirable features for darkroom design

and some suggestions you should consider in setting up your

darkroom.

The best way to develop your film, especially in a

temporary darkroom, is to use a film-developing tank. Since

these tanks are lighttight, any light that might leak into your

darkroom would affect the film only during the time you are

loading it into your tank. This minimizes the danger of light

fogging your film, a frequent source of trouble. Check for

stray light in your darkroom by following the procedure

described under “DARKROOM PLANNING.” After you

have placed the cover on your film tank, you can turn on the

white lights during development and the remainder of the

processing steps.

A changing bag—a large bag made of several thicknesses

of opaque material—will allow you to load your exposed

film into the developing tank with the room lights on. One

side of the changing bag has a lightproof opening to insert

your film and developing tank. The other side has lighttight

sleeves for reaching inside.

TEMPORARY AMATEUR DARKROOM

For developing black-and-white films and making prints,

you can get started with only a minimum of equipment plus

an easily darkened kitchen, bathroom, or any other room that

has an electrical outlet. For night work, you can use

practically any room as a darkroom; however, you should

pull the shades or cover the windows with some dark

material to exclude light from streetlamps, car headlights, or

nearby lighted windows. A sink and a supply of water are

desirable but do not have to be in the same room. The kitchen

is probably the most convenient place to set up a temporary

darkroom, since it is supplied with running water and

electrical outlets, and the sink and counters provide adequate

working space.

When space is not available for setting up a permanent

darkroom and you must work in a room regularly used for

other purposes, some darkroom conveniences have to be

sacrificed. However, always try to arrange your equipment

to allow a smooth, convenient flow of work from your

enlarger through the developer and stop bath to fixing and

washing. You should have a large tray filled with water for

washing your prints. The KODAK Automatic Tray Siphon

(available from the Tiffen Company at www.tiffen.com) is a

handy gadget for converting an ordinary tray into an efficient

print washer. You should also have a container of water to

rinse the solutions from your hands. This helps prevent

contamination of your developer with other solutions. Use a

clean towel to dry your hands thoroughly before handling

film, negatives, and photographic paper. Group your

equipment so that you can perform all operations with a

minimum of steps, but allow sufficient working space. One

suggested arrangement for a kitchen darkroom is shown in

Figure 1.

It is helpful to have a table or other separate work area on

which you can perform all the dry operations, such as

printing and loading film tanks. This prevents water and

solutions from splashing on equipment and dry materials.

Set up all wet processing operations in or near the sink.

If there is no lamp socket over your processing area, use

an extension cord to suspend the safelight over the

processing trays. Keep the safelight at least 4 feet (1.2 m)

from your trays. A good safelight to use is the KODAK

Darkroom Lamp, CAT No. 152 1178, or the KODAK

Adjustable Safelight Lamp Model B, CAT No. 141 2212,

with the appropriate safelight filter. These lamps accept a

5.5-inch circular filter and are available from your photo

supply dealer.

Figure 1 Temporary Kitchen Darkroom

With a temporary darkroom, it is important to consider

ways of reducing the time and energy required to prepare the

room for use and to clean it afterward. For instance, keeping

all of your darkroom equipment in one or two boxes reduces

both the time spent collecting equipment and the chance of

misplacing something.

While the kitchen usually makes the best temporary

darkroom, other rooms will serve, too. One possibility is a

bathroom. However, although it has running water and

electricity, there is usually not enough work surface to

support trays and apparatus. You can make a work surface by

placing a piece of plywood across the bathtub, but

processing trays will be uncomfortably low. Sometimes it is

possible to set up a folding table to hold your trays and

printing equipment Protect the tabletop from spilled

solutions by covering it with a plastic tablecloth.

You can also use a small closet for a temporary darkroom.

A closet is usually easy to make dark, even in the daytime.

However, this is its only advantage, since it will have no

running water and possibly no electrical outlets. Moreover,

the closet probably will be filled with its normal contents. If

your closet has shelves, perhaps one of them is located at a

convenient height. If not, you may be able to install a

removable shelf or use a small table. In any case, place a

waterproof material under the trays to catch any spilled

solutions.

Darkroom Design for Amateur Photographers

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PERMANENT AMATEUR DARKROOM IN A

SMALL CLOSET

A permanent darkroom is much more convenient and saves a

lot of setup time. If you have only a small closet available,

make sure you utilize the space efficiently.

A closet, of course, will not have running water, but this is

not too important if there is a sink nearby where you can wash

your negatives and prints. However, the closet must have

electricity available. If there is no light socket in the closet, it

is usually easy and inexpensive to have one or two outlets

installed. It is desirable to have one socket in the ceiling for

the white light, and a double electrical outlet on the wall

above the bench for plugging in your safelight and your

enlarger or printer. Have a licensed electrician install or

inspect the wiring to make sure that all wiring conforms to the

electrical wiring code.

Figure 2 shows the arrangement of shelves for

transforming a 3x4-foot(0.9x1.2m) closet into a darkroom

suitable for developing film and making contact prints and

enlargements up to 10 x 12 inches (25.4 x 30.5 cm). The

12-inch shelf is 3 feet from the floor and holds the

developing, stop bath, and fixing trays. The

16-inch (40.6 cm) shelf is the same height and supports your

printer or enlarger.

A cabinet in the corner (upper right corner of drawing) on

the wall above the processing shelf provides convenient and

safe storage for your black-and-white paper supply. (Color

paper should be stored under refrigeration. See the paper

package and storage requirements.) A shelf about

9 inches (22.9 cm) wide and 2 feet (0.6 m) above the

processing shelf extends along the wall next to the cabinet

and provides shelf space for a timer and other small items.

This shelf should extend no farther than about 15 inches (38

cm) from the end of the processing shelf below so that it does

not block the safelight illumination above your developing

tray. Mount a safelight, such as a KODAK Darkroom Lamp

or KODAK Adjustable Safelight Lamp Model B, on the wall

or ceiling no closer than 4 feet (1.2 m) from the processing

shelf. You can store bottles of processing solutions on the

floor under the tray shelf. Store the unmixed chemical

concentrates in dry conditions, at temperatures between 40

and 86

F (5 - 30

Figure 2 A Closet Darkroom

Darkroom Design for Amateur Photographers

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C), away from direct sunlight or sources of

heat, and away from food.

A RECOMMENDED AMATEUR

DARKROOM

Although you can produce good work in a closet darkroom,

it is preferable to have a larger darkroom equipped with

running water. With more room, you can make bigger prints,

and you will have space for additional equipment. For

example, in the darkroom we are going to describe, you can

conveniently process color film and make color prints.

Capability

You can use the darkrooms illustrated in Figures 3 and 4 for

both black-and-white and color work. They are designed so

that you can process roll film or sheet film; make contact

prints; and make enlargements up to 16 x 20 inches

(40 x 50 cm) or larger, depending on the size of your

processing equipment.

These basic layouts are designed for areas which are

equipped with running water. If you choose a basement

location, you can connect your darkroom sink drainpipe to

the existing drain and trap for the laundry tub. For plans A,

B, or C, the darkroom can be built adjacent to the laundry

area with the drainpipe passing through the wall to the

nearby laundry tub. Plan D shows a way to solve the problem

when the laundry tub and existing drain are located in a

corner. The solution here is a combination laundry

room/darkroom. (Note the routing of the darkroom sink

drainpipe.)

Location

Where you decide to locate your darkroom will depend

primarily on the space available. However, you should also

consider convenience, temperature, and humidity.

Although a room on the first or second floor is suitable for

a darkroom, a dry basement is usually the ideal location. If

your basement is damp, you can make it drier by using a

dehumidifier, available from appliance and department

stores. The ideal relative humidity for darkroom work is

between 45 and 50 percent; the ideal temperature is between

70 and 75

Figure 3 Alternative Darkroom Plans

F (18.5 and 21°C). It is usually easier to maintain

this temperature in a basement than in any other part of the

house. Furthermore, hot- and cold-water connections and

electrical connections are generally available in a basement.

Another advantage is the ease of making a basement

light-tight. Most basements have only a few small windows

that you can easily cover with a piece of fiberboard or dark

cloth.

One more advantage of the basement darkroom is that

spilled solutions are likely to cause little damage. However,

all spilled solutions should be wiped up immediately.

A damp basement without a dehumidifier is not a good

location for a permanent darkroom. Dampness causes

mildew and rust on supplies and equipment. It also causes

deterioration of films and papers, which can result in weak,

mottled pictures. However, if you must use a damp location,

store your chemicals, films, and printing papers where it is

cool and dry, and take them to your darkroom only when you

need them.

An attic is another location that is usually not satisfactory

for use as a darkroom. Unless it is well insulated, an attic is

likely to be too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter.

Also, it is usually difficult and expensive to install plumbing

in an attic.

You can also readily adapt the room for other types of

work, such as copying. The darkroom layouts are arranged

so that you can work efficiently with a minimum of wasted

motion. They are also designed so that two or more people

can divide the various operations and work together without

interference. You can dry negatives by hanging them with

spring clothespins or film clips on a galvanized wire

suspended between two walls in your darkroom. To keep

construction costs at a minimum, you can omit conveniences

such as tray racks and cheesecloth-covered frames for drying

prints (shown on the shelves under the contact printer).

Size

The layouts for some recommended darkrooms, shown in

Figure 3, are designed to provide the utmost convenience in

the flow of work.

You can close off the darkroom space from the rest of the

area with partitions of wallboard. Partitions will help keep

the darkroom free from dust and also prevent light from

entering the area if someone opens the door to the basement.

As a precaution, post a sign that reads DARKROOM IN

USE—KEEP OUT on the darkroom door.

Darkroom Design for Amateur Photographers

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Arrangement

The darkroom units shown in Figures 3 and 4 consist of a dry

bench (or benches) and a wet unit, each 26 inches

(66 cm) wide. You can either have them built in a

woodworking shop or assemble them yourself from

ready-made kitchen cabinets.

To make a dark drawer (Figure 5) lighttight, install a

sliding lid that fits in a groove around the top perimeter of the

drawer. Paint the inside of the drawer and the lid flat black.

Attach a small block of wood on the top of the lid and

another one on the underside of the countertop. The blocks

of wood will push the lid closed when you close the drawer.

Figure 4 Plan for Permanent Darkroom

Figure 5 Dark Drawer

Use the dry bench for enlarging and printing and for

handling films, negatives, and photographic paper. Since

storage space for supplies and accessories is very important

for work in this area, drawers and shelves are provided. Also,

it is convenient to have a lighttight drawer (dark drawer) near

your printing equipment. This will provide quick access to

printing paper when you are making prints and will eliminate

the necessity of opening and closing the package of paper

every time you need a sheet of printing paper. When you

have finished printing, you should return the unused printing

paper to its original package.

You can use the space on top of the wet unit for mixing

chemicals and for all processing operations. Storage space

for processing trays and chemical solutions is beneath this

bench. Shelves above each unit provide storage space for

bottles of stock solution, timers, thermometers, and other

small equipment. Wooden pegs mounted on the splash guard

provide a place to keep graduates. Mount a towel holder near

the sink.

You can locate the dry and wet units either on opposite

sides of the darkroom with ample space between them or

side by side with a splash guard separating them. With either

arrangement, your equipment and materials will be protected

against water and solutions splashed from the wet work area.

A safelight is suspended over each unit at a distance of no

less than 4 feet (1.2 m) from the working surface. To provide

safelight illumination for the dry bench, you can use a

safelight such as a KODAK Adjustable Safelight Lamp,

Model B, with the proper safelight filter. For the processing

area, we recommend a larger safelight, such as the KODAK

Utility Safelight Lamp, Model D, CAT No. 141 2261. This

lamp holds a 10 x 12-inch safelight filter and hangs from

chains attached to the ceiling to provide a broad direct or

indirect illumination. A bracket is also available for

mounting this lamp on the wall, table, or workbench. Double

electrical outlets, properly grounded, are mounted over the

units for plugging in your printer, enlarger, and other

equipment.

Darkroom Design for Amateur Photographers

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Kodak - Darkroom Design for Amateur Photographers.pdf

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