Chair - Anniversary.pdf - plans - kubabernacki

Anniversary

Chair

The first in a new furniture line designed to commemorate 100 years of POPULAR

MECHANICS.

No woodworker of 100 years ago could have guessed what

lay in store--what amazing new tools and materials waited

in the wings. Who could have known that compact,

powerful electric motors would come to dominate every

basement workshop activity? And that manufactured

panels and lumber, new adhesives and plastics would

literally change the shape of our homes, the things we

make for them and the way we build it all?

No one could have known--but there was one sure way to

keep up. With each issue, POPULAR MECHANICS

brought the latest in technology, tools, products and

projects into homes and workplaces across the country. It

was here, in these pages, that woodworkers just like you

pored over plans and instructions for building everything

from bookcases to speedboats. For millions, POPULAR

MECHANICS took the mystery out of making, and

empowered whole generations, giving them confidence to

"do it themselves." Now, with 100 years under our belt, it's

time to celebrate. And what better way than with a set of

matching furniture projects specifically designed for the

occasion.

The first in our series is this elegant side chair, and it sets

the tone for each succeeding furniture project throughout

the year. With bows to both the Arts & Crafts and Art

Nouveau styles, we've created a contemporary design

theme that's compatible with any decor. We've chosen

mahogany as the primary wood. But instead of the typical

dark stain that many are familiar with, we opted for a

natural oil finish that gently darkens with use, turning a

golden, reddish brown.

In addition to the mahogany, we used two exotic woods to

create tasteful decorative accents: wenge, a heavy, dense,

dark wood, and pomele sapele veneer, a mahogany-like

wood with a heavily quilted grain figure. Both of these

materials are available through mail-order suppliers. One

such supplier is A&M Wood Specialty Inc., 358 Eagle St.

N., Box 32040, Cambridge, Ontario, Canada N3H 5M2;

800-265-2759; www.amwoodinc.com.

We had an upholsterer provide the slip seat for our chair.

This is the place where you can add a personal touch by

selecting a fabric that blends with your home's interior

esign scheme.

MATERIALS LIST--CHAIR

Key No. Size and description (use)

A 2 1-3/4 x 3-3/4 x 43-3/4"

mahogany (rear leg)

B 2 2-1/8 x 2-1/8 x 16"

mahogany (front leg)

C 1 13/16 x 4 x 17-1/4"

mahogany (front rail)

D 1 13/16 x 6 x 13-5/8"

mahogany (rear rail)

E 2 1-3/4 x 4 x 13-5/8"

mahogany (back rail)

F 2 13/16 x 6 x 15-1/2"

mahogany (side rail)

G* 2 1/2 x 1-1/16 x 1-3/4" wenge

(leg cap)

H* 4 1/2 x 1-1/16 x 1-1/16" wenge

(foot)

I 1 3/8 x 5-1/2 x 17-5/8"

mahogany (splat)

J* 1 3/8 x 4 x 15" wenge (panel)

K* 1 4 x 15" pomele sapele (panel

veneer)

L 2 1 x 3 x 5-1/8" maple (corner

block)

M 2 1 x 3 x 5-9/16" maple (corner

block)

N 20 1-1/2" No. 8 fh woodscrew

O 4 3" No. 10 fh woodscrew

Misc.: Glue; wax paper; 120-, 220- and

320-grit sandpaper; 4/0 steel wool;

Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish

(Waterlox Coatings Corp., 9808 Meech

Ave., Cleveland, OH 44105); slip seat

provided by upholsterer.

* Finished dimension. Cut oversize and

trim after assembly.

Start With The Legs

Begin by making a full-size template for the side

profile of the rear legs from a piece of 1/4-in.-thick

hardboard or plywood. Use the template to lay out

the legs on 1-3/4-in. stock, and cut to the waste

side of the lines with a band saw (Photo 1). Do

not make the top and bottom cuts at this time--it's

more accurate to make these cuts after final leg

shaping.

Use a plane to smooth the sawn surfaces and

refine the shape of the rear legs. Be sure to keep

the planed surfaces square to the leg sides

(Photo 2). With the shaping done, use a table saw

and miter gauge to trim the top and bottom of

each leg. Then, rip stock for the front legs to 2-1/8

in. square and crosscut these pieces to 16 in.

long.

Use a band saw to cut the rear leg

shapes. Keep the saw kerf on the waste

side of the layout line while cutting.

Lay out all the mortise locations on the legs.To

make this job more accurate, clamp two legs side

by side and mark them together. Then, use an

edge guide and a spiral up-cutting bit to rout the

mortises (Photo 3). Make each mortise in two or

three passes to avoid breaking the bit or

overloading the router, and finish by chopping the

ends square with a sharp chisel. Lay out the

tapers on the front chair legs, use your band saw

to cut the legs to shape, and plane the surfaces

smooth.

Smooth the cut surfaces with a hand

plane. Be sure to keep the planed surface

square to the adjacent faces.

Rip a blank of wenge to 1-1/8 x 1-13/16 in. and

cut it about 8 in. long. Use a sharp chisel to trim a

1/4-in. bevel around one end (Photo 4), and then

cut a 1/2-in.-thick piece from the beveled end to

produce a leg cap. Repeat the process for the

remaining leg cap. Apply glue to a cap and top

end of a leg, position the cap (Photo 5) and clamp

it in place. When the glue dries, sand the cap

edges flush and adjust the chamfer as required.

Then, cut a wenge foot for each leg. Bore and

countersink a pilot hole in each foot and fasten

them to the legs with screws and glue. Sand the

feet flush, and slightly soften the bottom edges so

they won't chip.

Rout the leg mortises with a spiral up-

cutting bit. Another leg helps support the

router while making these cuts.

Use a chisel to cut a 1/4-in. bevel at the

top end of a wenge blank. Then, cut a leg

cap from the blank.

Apply glue, place the cap on the end of

the leg, and clamp. Sand the cap flush

and adjust the chamfer as necessary.

Making The Rails

Cut 13/16-in.-thick stock to size for the lower chair

rails and use 1-3/4-in. blanks for the curved back

rails. Install a dado blade in the table saw and use

your miter gauge to cut the tenons on the front

and back bottom rails (Photo 6). Readjust the

blade height and hold the work on edge to cut the

tenon shoulders. When cutting the thicker back-

rail tenons, note that the depth of cut is different

on the front and back faces.

Mark the locations of the mortises in the edges of

the curved rails, and rout the mortises before you

cut the rails to shape. Square the mortises with a

chisel.

Use a dado blade to cut the rail tenon

faces. Turn the stock on edge and

readjust blade to cut tenon shoulders.

Use your band saw to cut the inside curve of the

rails (Photo 7). Then, clamp each piece to your

bench and use a spokeshave to smooth the cut

Chair - Anniversary.pdf

Plik z chomika:

Inne pliki z tego folderu:

Inne foldery tego chomika: