MS2150-Emma_C_Berry-Instructions.pdf

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INSTRUCTION MANUAL
Emma C. Berry
SLOOP-RIGGED WELL SMACK
TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS
SCALE: 3/8” = 1’0” (1:32)
Hull length: 19-1/2”
Hull width: 5-1/2”
Height: 28-1/2”
MODEL SHIPWAYS KIT NO. MS2150
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HIST OR
ORY
HIST
Emma C. Berry was designed and built by R. & J. Palmer Boatyards in Noank,
Connecticut. The sloop, named after Captain John Henry Berry’s daughter, was
launched June 5, 1866. For 28 years she operated as a well smack, transporting live
mackerel to market. Because sloops were fast and sturdy, they were popular East
Coast fishing craft. However, as schooners became prevalent, Emma C. Berry was
converted to a schooner rig.
In 1890, she was sold to Maine interests where she was registered in the fishery and
coastal trades. She was abandoned 30 years later when the vessel wore out. Luckily,
Emma C. Berry's hull lines attracted a new owner. Fixed up, she began a new career as
a coaster, but was out of service again in 1931. She was rescued by F. Slade Dale, who
purchased the boat for a yacht. In 1969, he presented Emma C. Berry to the Marine
Historical Association in Mystic, Connecticut.
Between 1969 and 1971, Mystic Seaport replaced her rotted timbers, restored the wet
well and rerigged her as a sloop. From 1987 to 1988, The museum rebuilt her origi-
nal deck and cabin trunk then developed restoration drawings.
Photos in this manual depict Emma C. Berry as she looked in 1995. At that time
she was missing her topmast shrouds, spreader, and windlass barrel. For more
information on the Emma C. Berry , and the other ships at Mystic Seaport, please
contact: Mystic Seaport P.O. Box 6000 Mystic, CT 06355. Or call 1-888-9SEAPORT
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T ABLE OF
ABLE OF
CONTENTS
Brief History
2
Stage 5: Mast and Spar Construction
27
Introduction and Credits
4
1.
Iron Bands
27
Before You Begin
5
2.
Shaping and Tapering Masts and Spars
27
Tools Needed to Start Construction
5
3.
Building and Installing the Lower
Mast and Topmast
How to Work With Plans & Parts
6,7
27,28
Painting and Staining
8,9
4.
Building and Installing the Bowsprit
28
5.
Building the Boom and Gaff
28
Stage 1: Framing the Plank-on-Frame Hull
10
1.
Bending Wood
10
Stage 6: General Rigging and Sailmaking
29
2.
Keel Assembly
11
1.
Rigging Options
30
3.
Cutting the Rabbet 11
2.
Rigging Line Sizes
30
4.
Setting Up the Building Fixture
11,12
3.
Treating the Lines
30
5.
Cutting Frame Bevels and Frame Assembly
12
4.
Blocks, Deadeyes, and Bullseyes
31
6.
Frame Installation
13
5.
Belaying
31
7.
Completing the Keel Assembly 14
6.
Rigging Tools
31
8.
Installing the Transom and Transom Moulding
14
7.
Sailmaking
31-33
9.
Installing the Clamps
14
8.
Rigging the Model Without Sails
33
10.
Interior Detail
15
11.
Deck Framing
15,16
Stage 7: Standing Rigging
33
12.
Installing the Covering Board
16
1.
Shrouds
33
2.
Topmast Backstays
34
Stage 2: Planking the Hull
17
3.
Jib Stay and Topmast Stay
34
1. Getting Started
18
4.
Bobstay and Bowsprit Guys
34
2.
Planking Battens and Belts
18
5.
Running Lights
35
3.
Planking Butts
18
4.
Spiling
18
Stage 8: Running Rigging
35
5.
Fastening the Planks
18,19
1.
Mainsail
35
6.
Planking the Outer Hull
19,20
2.
Gaff Topsail
36
7.
Planking the Deck
21
3.
Jib
36
8.
Constructing the Bulwarks
21,22
4.
Topmast Staysail
36
5.
Tiller and Boom Preventers 37
Stage 3: Mounting the Hull
23
6.
Gaskets
37
1.
Building Ways
23
2.
Baseboard with Two Pedestals
23
Final Touches
37
Bibliography
38
Stage 4: Adding Hull Details
24
Scale Conversion Table
38
1.
Stern Mooring Bitts
24
Rigging Line Diameters
38
2.
Main Sheet Horse
24
3.
Hatches, and Wet Well Gratings
24
4.
Cabin Trunk
24
5.
Rudder and Tiller
25
6.
Stern and Bow Lettering
25
7.
Billet Head and Trailboards
25
8.
Chain Plates, Stem Plates,
and Bowsprit Guy Eyebolts
25
9.
Deck and Spar Eyebolts
25
10.
Windlass
26
11.
Anchor
26
12.
Bow Chocks
26
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Instruction Manual
Sloop-Rigged Well Smack
EMMA C. BERRY
1866
Plans and Instructions
By Ben Lankford
Model by John Fryant
Model Shipways developed the Emma C. Berry kit in 1996. The model is based on drawings and docu-
mentation provided by Nancy d’ Estang, Supervisor of Shipyard Research and Documentation at Henry
B. duPont Preservation Shipyard at Mystic Seaport. The museum has reviewed Emma C. Berry’s plans
and instructions for accuracy.
This kit offers true plank-on-frame construction. At 3/8” = 1’0” scale (1:32), it is large enough for
extensive detailing. More than 190 laser-cut parts simplify the building process. The model can be
completed in different configurations. The hull can be fully planked or presented Navy Board style
to reveal underlying frames and deck timbers. Interior detailing can be included or only partially
completed as if the boat were under construction or being repaired. The model can be painted, or
left natural and stained.
Frames will be erected like a real ship, i.e. with the hull upright. Although a little more difficult than
building it upside down, this permits adding all the inboard details. Parts for a building fixture are
included, but the model builder must supply a building board.
© 1997
Model Shipways, Inc., Division of Model Expo, Inc.
Hollywood, FL 33020
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Before You Begin
Emma C. Berry is an attractive sailing craft and makes a splendid model. Assembling the plank-on-frame hull develops
an understanding of how real ships are built, while laser-cut parts assure an accurate shape. Take your time building this
model. Parts are delicate and the frame setup is critical. Always complete one stage before moving to the next. When
something goes awry, consider doing it over. A second attempt usually surpasses the first. Practice does make perfect.
Tools Needed to Start Construction
The following items are recommended. Those who have modeled before may have their favorites.
A. Knives and Saws
1. Hobby knife
2. #11 blades
3. Razor saw or jeweler’s saw
G. Miscellaneous
1. Tack hammer
2. Tweezers (a few)
3. Small, fine pointed scissors
4. Miniature pliers
a. round nose
b. flat nose
5. Small bench vise
6. Soldering iron or torch
a. solder
b. flux
7. Sewing thread for seizing
(other rigging in kit)
a. black
b. tan
8. Beeswax block
(for treating rigging lines)
9. 1/2” or 3/4” masking tape
10. Wire cutters (for cutting fine wire and
strip metal)
J. Finishing
1. Paintbrushes
a. Fine round point for details
b. 1/4” to 1/2” flat square for hull
K. Supplies
1. Paints
2. Primer
3. Stains and varnish
4. White (polyvinyl acetate or PVA) or
woodworker’s glue (aliphatic resin)
5. Cyanoacrylates (generic name is
Super Glue)
6. Five-minute epoxy
7. Wood filler
B. Files and Planes
1. Set of needle files
2. Small block plane
C. Clamps
1. A few small C-clamps
2. Wooden spring-type clothes
pins (craft shops have small
versions)
3. #16 and #33 rubber bands
Note: White or woodworker’s glue in yellow
or tan will suffice for most of the model.
Five-minute epoxy provides extra strength
for affixing fittings. Cyanoacrylates, such as
Jet, Flash, or Zap, produce quick adhesion.
For most applications, the medium viscosity,
gap-filling variety is best. The thin type is
recommended for filling a narrow crack and
tacking frames to the keel or planking to the
frames.
D. Carving Tool s
A small woodcarving set, or individual
gouges and chisels for carving keel
rabbets and tapering the stem.
H. Sandpaper
1. Fine and medium grit
garnet or #100 to #220
aluminum oxide
2. #400 wet-or-dry sandpaper
E. Sharpening Stone
Keeps tools razor sharp.
F. Boring Tools
1. #60 to #80 miniature bits
2. 1/16”, 3/32”, and 1/8” bits
3. Pin vise
I. Sailcloth
Light weave cotton or linen for making
sails. Model Expo sells a suitable cotton
cloth (MS0567).
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