Heirloom Coffee Table.pdf
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HEIRLOOM
COFFEE
TABLE
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co.
H
eirloom
P
roject
c
offee
t
able
This coffee table features cabriole legs, scalloped aprons, and an oval
top. But the straightforward construction won’t throw you any curves.
T
his cof fee table is an elegant
Queen Anne project. It features
cabriole legs, a scalloped base, and
an oval top with a hand-rubbed fin-
ish. But don’t assume that this table
demands a lot of time or highly spe-
cialized skills. It doesn’t.
The legs are the most involved
par t of this table. So to help out,
we’ve included a step-by-step article
on page 8. Or if you just can’t bring
yourself to build the legs, you can buy
them pre-made, see page 9. With the
legs done, this project moves along
pretty quickly. In fact, the table can
almost be completed in a weekend.
CABRIOLE LEGS
. To build this coffee
table, the first thing you need to do
is to make the cabriole
legs (A)
, as
you can see in the drawing below.
And as I mentioned before, you’ll find
a pattern for shaping the legs as well
as detailed instructions for making
them in the article on page 8.
RAILS & STRETCHERS
. When the legs
are complete, the next step is to con-
nect them with
3
/
4
"-thick
side aprons
(B)
and
front/back aprons (C)
. Both
are the same width and have a scalloped
profile cut on their bottom edges.
But before cutting the decorative
profile, I cut the tenons on the ends
of the aprons to fit the mortises in the
legs, see Fig. 1.
Then after the tenons had been
cut, I cut a groove on the inside
1
a.
2
a.
a.
1
www.Woodsmith.com
© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reser ved.
faces of the aprons, see Fig. 2. These
grooves hold the simple Z-shaped
fasteners that I used later to secure
the top to the base.
SCALLOPED PROFILES
. Now the aprons
are ready for their decorative profiles.
The nice thing is the symmetrical
profile is the same on both the side
aprons and the front/back aprons. So
I only needed to make a half template
for each set of parts.
To create each template, you’ll
start with the scaled pattern shown
below. Then simply transfer the pro-
file onto a cardboard template.
With the template complete, I
began laying out the profile on the
front apron, see Fig. 3. To do this,
the base needs to be dry assembled
first. That’s because the cur ve on
the template must start where the
transition block on the cabriole leg
ends, see Fig. 3a. (It’s also important
to keep the top edge of the template
flush with the top of the apron.)
Draw the profile; then flip the tem-
plate over and draw it again, starting
from the other end. The half tem-
plate meets in a shallow curve at the
center of the apron.
The profile on the side aprons is
the same as the front/back aprons
— just shorter (Fig. 4). So I simply
trimmed off the template. As with the
front/back aprons, the curve starts at
the transition block. You may need to
adjust the centerpoint of the profile.
After the profiles are laid out, the
scalloped edges can be cut. The
impor tant thing here is to get a
clean, sharp corner at the “point”
of the profile. To do this, I started
by cutting the point of each profile,
see Fig. 5a. Then I cut from the
3
a.
4
5
a.
6
ends along the cur ves to the point
to remove the waste, see Fig. 5.
Finally, I glued and clamped the
base together. Then I sanded the scal-
loped edges smooth, making sure
the joint lines between the transition
blocks on the legs and the aprons
were flush, see Fig. 6.
APRON
TEMPLATE
2
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© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reser ved.
Table Top
With the base complete, I set about
to build the top. This is pretty simple
really. The top is just a glued-up mahog-
any panel cut in an oval shape.
To do this, I began by making a
paper pattern first. Then I created
a hardboard template from this pat-
tern and used the template as a guide
when cutting and routing.
PAPER PATTERN
. As I mentioned, the
first thing to do is create a pattern for
the top, see Fig. 7. The oval shape
of this table isn’t a true ellipse. So
it has to be drawn “freehand.” This
may sound a bit intimidating, but it
really does require less artistic skill
than you might think. You just draw
a grid, plot some points, and connect
the dots, see box below.
There’s one more thing I want
to mention: You don’t even need to
make a full pattern; a quarter pattern
will do. And it will give you more a
more consistent template.
HARDBOARD TEMPLATE
. With the paper
quarter pattern complete, I used it to
make a full-size template out of
1
/
4
"-
thick hardboard, see Fig. 8. There
are a couple advantages to creating a
hardboard template for this project.
For one thing, if you happen to make
a mistake when cutting or sanding the
template, it’s no big deal. Hardboard
is cheap compared to mahogany.
But even more important, it’s much
easier to shape and sand a
1
/
4
"-thick
7
TABLE TOP QUARTER PATTERN
8
a.
9
a.
QUICK AND EASY GRID
I’m not an artist and don’t feel com-
fortable drawing freehand curves.
But recently, I was shown a quick
way to draw freehand cur ves by
first creating a rough grid. All you
need is some paper for the pattern,
a pencil and a tape measure, and a
table with a square corner.
GRID
. To do this, I made a 2" grid
using a trick I’d been taught by a
carpenter, see left and center pho-
tos. To draw the lines, hold the tape
firmly with one hand and “hook”
the pencil on the end of the tape.
CONNECT DOTS
. With the grid drawn,
plot the points of the curve on the
grid. Now, drawing the curve is just
a matter of “connecting the dots.”
3
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© 2007 August Home Publishing Co. All Rights Reser ved.
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