The Eighteenth Century Volume 5 ANNE ROONEY.pdf

A History of Fashion

and Costume

The Eighteenth

Century

Anne Rooney

The Eighteenth Century

Library of Congress Cataloging-

in-Publication Data

Produced for Facts On File by

Bailey Publishing Associates Ltd

11a Woodlands

Hove BN3 6TJ

Rooney, Anne.

A history of fashion and costume.

The eighteenth century/Anne

Rooney.

p. cm.

Includes bibliographical references and

index.

ISBN 0-8160-5948-9

1. Clothing and dress—History—

18th century—Fashion—History—

18th century.

GT585.R66 2005

391/.009/033—dc 22

2005040156

Project Manager: Roberta Bailey

Editor: Alex Woolf

Text Designer: Simon Borrough

Artwork: Dave Burroughs, Peter Dennis,

Tony Morris

Picture Research: Glass Onion Pictures

Consultant:Tara Maginnis, Ph.D. Associate Professor

of the University of Alaska, Fairbanks, and creator

of the website,The Costumer's Manifesto

(http://costumes.org/)

The publishers would like to thank the

following for permission to use their

pictures:

Printed and bound in Hong Kong

Art Archive: 9, 12, 17, 18,

32, 37 (top), 45, 47 (right), 49, 55

(both), 59

Bridgeman Art Library: 6, 7, 10 (top),

14, 16 (both), 27, 33 (top), 35 (both),

39, 41, 50, 58

Hanan and Farah Munayyer

Collection: 21 (top)

Peter Newark: 29 (both), 36, 38, 48

Topham: 26

Victoria & Albert Museum: 11, 23, 24,

25, 40, 42 (bottom), 44, 46, 52, 57

reproduced or utilized in any form or by any

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Contents

Introduction

Chapter 1: Changing Fashions in the West

Chapter 2: Worn Around the World

Chapter 3: Functional Fashions

Chapter 4: Not Just Clothes

Timeline

Glossary

Further Information

Index

Introduction

The eighteenth century saw the beginnings of the modern

fashion industry in Europe and America. Fashion magazines

appeared and the first fashion plates were produced. For the

first time, designs could be published and copied widely.

Fashions began to change quickly, led by Paris and London.

Designs were dictated not by practical needs but by trends

in art, culture, and politics, by new discoveries, technological

innovations, and scientific advances. Some European fashions

were, in fact, so impractical they rendered their wearers almost

incapable of everyday activity.

Elsewhere fashions changed slowly. In Asia, textile production

was already greatly advanced and beautiful garments had been

produced for centuries.Their designs evolved slowly, following

traditional or symbolic patterns, and were often linked to the

social and religious standing of the wearer.

In countries where the climate was warm, clothes could be

basic or even non-existent; the concept of changing fashions

was alien. In some places, simply structured garments were

beautifully adorned, following patterns and styles used for

generations without change.

This book traces the developing fashions of the West. But it

also looks at the strictly regulated clothing worn in the Far

East, where choosing the wrong color robe could bring dire

punishment. It visits the Inuit, who made clothes from fish

skin and the intestines of sea mammals. It looks at clothing

for special purposes, from the leather armor of the samurai

to shamans’ garments decorated with bones and bird beaks.

People around the world have delighted in decorating their

bodies and clothes. In their costumes, they leave a record of

their lives, their concerns, and their beliefs that unlocks the past.

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