Lonely Planet - Myanmar (Burma), Country Guide (11th edition 2012).pdf - Przewodniki - Cavalldi

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W elcome to

Myanmar

(Burma)

Surreal & Traditional

To travel here is to encounter men wear-

ing skirt-like longyi, women smothered

in thanakha (traditional make-up) and

betel-chewing grannies with mouths full

of blood-red juice – and that’s just at the

airport! One of the most fascinating aspects

of travel in Myanmar is the opportunity to

experience a corner of Asia that, in many

ways, has changed little since British colo-

nial times. Myanmar, for instance, has yet

to be completely overwhelmed by Western

clothing. It’s also a country of many in-

credible and sometimes surreal sites. Con-

template the 4000 sacred stupas scattered

across the plains of Bagan. Stare in disbelief

at the Golden Rock teetering impossibly on

the edge of a chasm. Ride a horse cart past

colonial-era mansions. Meet multitalented

monks who have taught their cats to jump,

or feisty elderly Chin women, their faces

tattooed with intricate designs.

Simple Pleasures

Turn back the clock with a trip to this

time-warped country where there’s no such

thing as a 7-Eleven or an ATM, and people

still use horse and cart to get around. Lib-

erate yourself from your mobile phone (it

won’t work here) and the internet (you can

get online, but connections are sloooow )

and discover a culture where holy men are

more revered than rock stars. Drift down

the Ayeyarwady in an old river steamer,

‘This is Burma’, wrote

Rudyard Kipling. ‘It is quite

unlike any place you know

about.’ How right he was:

more than a century later

Myanmar remains a world

apart.

(left) Umin Thounzeh (p229), Sagaing Hill

(below) Fresh produce at a Nyaung U market

stake out a slice of beach on the blissful Bay

of Bengal, or trek through pine forests to

minority villages scattered across the Shan

Hills. Dig into the myriad dishes of the lo-

cal cuisine, from a hearty bowl of mohinga

noodles for breakfast to the fermented tea-

leaf mixture that’s a popular ﬁ nish to a Bur-

mese meal. Swap cocktails and canapés for

snacks and tea sweetened with condensed

milk at teahouses where you can shoot the

breeze with locals.

at the time of research, had been released

from house arrest. The tourism boycott that

persuaded many to steer clear of the coun-

try for over a decade has been lifted. It’s still

up to you to decide whether it’s time to visit

(see p21). Keep in mind that the long-suf-

fering people are everything the regime is

not. Gentle, humorous, engaging, consider-

ate, inquisitive and passionate, they want to

play a part in the world, and to know what

you make of their world. Yes, this is Burma –

come with your mind open and you’ll leave

with your heart full.

The Ethical Dimension

You no doubt know that Myanmar is a

troubled land. In 2011, following the previ-

ous year’s election, a quasi-civilian govern-

ment was sworn in and Aung San Suu Kyi,

TOP

EXPERIENCES

Shwedagon Paya

1 Is there a more stunning monument to religion in Southeast Asia? We don’t think so. In fact, the

sheer size and mystical aura of Yangon’s gilded masterpiece may even cause you to question

your inner atheist. But it’s not all about quiet contemplation: Shwedagon Paya (p43) is equal parts

religious pilgrimage and amusement park, and your visit may coincide with a noisy ordination

ceremony or fantastic fortune-telling session. If you’re looking for one reason to linger in Yangon

(Rangoon) before heading upcountry, this is it.

Inle Lake

2 Virtually every visitor to Myanmar (Burma) makes it here at some point, but Inle Lake (p177)

is so awe-inspiring and large that everybody comes away with a diﬀ erent experience. If you’re

counting days, you’ll most likely be hitting the hotspots: water-bound temples, shore-bound

markets and ﬂ oating gardens. If you have more time, consider day hikes or exploring the more

remote corners of the lake. Either way, the cool weather and friendly folk and that placid pool of

ink-like water are bound to ﬁ nd a permanent place in your memory.

Bagan

3 More than 3000 Buddhist temples are scattered across the plains of Bagan (Pagan; p149),

site of the ﬁ rst Burmese kingdom. Dating back to between the 11th and 13th centuries, the vast

majority of the temples have been renovated, as Bagan remains an active religious site and place

of pilgrimage. Yes, there are tour buses and crowds at the most popular sunset-viewing spots, but

they can be avoided. Pedal oﬀ on a bike and have your own adventure amid the not-so-ruined

temples, or ﬂ oat over the temple tops in a hot-air balloon. Buddhist monks, Ananda Pahto Festival

Pyin Oo Lwin

4 Pyin Oo Lwin (Maymyo; p250) is a one-oﬀ curiosity that makes for an easy escape from sweaty

lowland Mandalay. As the former British-era summer capital, it retains a wide scattering of co-

lonial buildings big and small and a remarkable botanical garden that’s one of Southeast Asia’s most

manicured. Today, local tourists and a new generation of elite ﬂ eeing the heat are treated to some of

provincial Myanmar’s best cuisine and most imaginative hotels. And to give it all a photogenic twist,

the local taxi service is by colourful horse and cart. National Kandawgyi Gardens, Pyin Oo Lwin

Mrauk U

5 While exploring the many temples, monasteries and ruined city walls of the former Rakhaing

capital of Mrauk U (Myohaung; p279), you realise what an amazing place this sleepy town

was at its zenith in the 16th century. Giant structures such as the Dukkanthein Paya and Kothaung

Paya appear even more impressive amid the beguiling rural landscape of gently rounded hills and

vegetable ﬁ elds, through which the locals weave their way, aluminium water pots balanced on their

heads. Stay an extra day and travel by boat to the Chin villages (p286) scattered along the Lemro

River. Pagoda in the hills, Mrauk U

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