Battlestation builders guide.pdf

Building a

Battle Station Model

By Russell Barnes

I. Introduction

lection of helpful hints rather than a map to follow in order

to arrive at a desired result. I envision this project as an

introduction to scratch building. My hope is that the builder

learns a few scratch building techniques that will help, not

only on this model, but also in future projects whether they

be kits or scratch built. There is nothing difficult here, but it

will require the same level of patience and attention to

detail to complete the model satisfactorily that is required

of any well made model. If a beginner scratch builder can

successfully complete this model, then I think the effort to

draw the plans and set down some ideas about how to

build it are well worth it.

The summer is usually a pretty difficult time for

me to work in my workshop. Chores abound

around the house and there is seemingly some-

thing to do almost every day that precludes any

useful time spent in the workshop. The summer

of 2004 was no different. By the time late July

rolled around, I was desperate. I had not made

anything for over a month. Something had to be

done. What to do? Then it hit me. I was looking

over the latest Model Expo catalogue and saw

they still offered kit models of small battle sta-

tions. Not wanting to build a kit, I saw the poten-

tial for a quick scratch built project. Over the

next two weeks I built a pretty little battle station

model that turned out to be quite a conversation

piece.

The tools you will use to build this model are, for the most

part, in every ship modeler's tool chest. The only power

tool I used in building this model was a 4" table saw that

As fate would have it, that model was destroyed when

Hurricane Katrina washed away the local museum. I have

decided to replace the battle station model, but it occurred

to me that others might benefit from my experience having

built it. So, I redrew the plans, making some improve-

ments, and decided to set down a guide to building the

model. I am not an expert and I make no claim that my

methods are the only way to build the model. Someone

building from these plans should view my words as a col-

A view of the author's small workshop

II. Framing the model

To begin, take a piece of 6" x 12" plywood and cut your

base out of that. The deck space is made 4 13/16" across

and 4 1/16" long. I used 3/16" thick model aircraft grade

plywood for the base of the deck section, but it is not

beyond the skills of any modeler to use actual deck beams

rather than the plywood base. I simply found it a nice short-

cut. Make certain the base is squared up all around and

mark which edge is the side and which is the forward end.

Next, note the frame locations and carefully mark and cut

out the slots in the plywood to receive those frames. Take

care with this part of the operation because the frames

must fit snugly and be at right angles to the plywood base.

I used my 4" table saw with the blade lowered to make

those slots, but you can easily use a scroll saw or cut them

by hand. When I used my table saw to cut the slots, I

began with the miter gauge and the plywood behind the

blade and then ran it forward over the blade so that I could

see the marks for the slots. Stand the plywood base on its

end with the slots facing downward and hold it tight against

the miter gauge as you run it back through the blade.

Sneak up on the outer edges of the slots and take off only

a bit with each pass. As always when you using a power

tool, wear eye protection and watch your fingers. If you do

not respect your tools they can hurt you.

When you have the slots cut, use some of your framing

material to test fit the slots to ensure they are all a snug fit.

Here are a few of the tools the author has found most

useful in building small models such as the battle station

was used almost exclusively for most of the structural

work. A scroll saw would also do the trick. For hand tools, I

used two sets of jeweler's files, one set for large work and

one for small details. Some cross locking tweezers or

hemostats will be needed for holding small pieces. Cloth

pins and bar clamps are good for holding pieces while the

glue dries. You will need some pliers and end nippers for

metal work. The end nippers are also good for trimming

treenails. I did all my drilling with a twist drill and a small

set of bits. I used a draw plate for making treenails and

other odds and ends. For measuring and marking I used a

sharp pencil, a 12" steel rule, and a small steel machinist's

square.

The battle station is a simple deck section with a portion of

bulwark, a single deck gun with a port, a hatch and grating,

and a binnacle cabinet. I have chosen a scale of 3/8"=1' as

it offers a lot of details and some of the parts are easier to

fabricate. Some modelers may also wish to enlarge or

reduce the plans and build at a different scale. That is fine.

However, for the purposes of this guide, I will use the

dimensions for a scale of 3/8"=1'. The plans are very sim-

ple. There is a sheer view, a plan view, and a cross section

view. I have also included details for the deck gun and its

carriage and the binnacle. Study the plans carefully and

become familiar with them.

The base piece for the battle station. Note the mortices for

the frames and how the forward end of the base has been

marked.

cross section drawing and compare its length to that in the

in the drawing. If there is any discrepancy, remark your

frames for length and re-cut the offending pieces. If you do

not, your rail will not sit properly. Of course, if you meas-

ured and cut carefully the first time around, there should be

no problem. Now, install the frames in the slots in the base,

gluing each frame in and squaring it up with a machinist's

square. Do not get careless here because the frames must

all be at right angles to the plywood base and at the same

height. If they are racked out of line, even in the slightest,

the planking will not lie flat on the frames. If you need to

add shims, that is fine. They will not be seen in the finished

product. The most important thing is to get those frames all

sitting perfectly square in their slots. I found that by setting

the outermost frames first and then working inward to the

gun port was the best way to go. For the purposes of build-

ing the model, I found that it was helpful during the framing

and planking process to number the frames 1 through 5

beginning from the far left, moving along the bulwark to the

right. This is not necessary, but it helps to keep things as

organized as possible.

The bulwark frames for the battle station model. These

have been built up of two pieces of basswood

The frame should just slide in with a slight amount of fric-

tion. If you need to take a bit more off, I would suggest

using a coarse file to touch up the saw cut. One key to

making accurate cuts is to have a sharp pencil. The sharp-

er the pencil lead, the crisper the lines, and the more accu-

rate the cuts. Measure the deck beam locations from the

plan view and mark these out on the plywood base. It is

best to have these marked out so that you can treenail

your deck if you wish when you plank the deck.

The next project is to install the gun port sill and lintel. The

sill marks the bottom edge of the port and the lintel marks

the upper edge. These are two pieces of basswood, 3/16"

square. On the sheer plan measure up from the bottom of

the base to the lower edge of the port. Mark that on the

third and fourth frames. That is the upper edge of the sill.

Make sure when you install the sill that the upper edge

meets those marks. Measure carefully so you do not have

the sill sitting at an angle. I used a machinist's square laid

on the end frame to make sure the marks for the sill and

lintel were transferred onto both frames 3 and 4. Repeat

this operation with the lintel, the only difference being the

mark you make will represent the lower edge of the lintel. It

is a good idea to have a sample of the planking that will run

just above and below the gun port to act as a gauge to

make sure you have the sill and lintel properly placed. You

are looking for the correct height and to double check that

they are level.

Once the plywood base is cut with the frame slots, use

some 3/16" square basswood to make up your frames. You

could use solid 3/8" thick stock for this, but I had some

3/16" sheet stock from which I ripped my framing material.

Another good reason for using the smaller stock and gluing

them up in pairs is that if the slots you cut are a bit larger,

the glue seam between the two frame halves will take up

some of the space. I cross cut the frame sections on my

table saw, using the miter gauge and rip fence to ensure

consistently correct length and squared ends. Once you

have the pieces cut for the frames, glue them up to create

3/8" sided thickness (when viewed from the side) and 3/16"

moulded thickness (when viewed from fore or aft) frames.

It is a good idea to take each frame and lay it down on the

An outboard view of the bulwark framing

An inboard view of the bulwark framing.

Note the simple use of lentil and

sill to frame the gun port

An outboard view of

the bulwark framing.

Note how the frames

fit into each mortice

your draw plate, take a piece of bamboo about 6-8" long

and split it down the length repeatedly until you have a

strip that is just a shade large than your finished size. I

never want to have to pull through more than 5-6 holes to

get to my desired diameter. Sand one end to a point and

then test it in a hole that is several sizes larger than your

target diameter. You can hold your draw plate in a bench

vise, if you have one, or you can do as I do and hold it in

your left hand and pull the bamboo down through the holes

with the thumb and forefinger of your right hand. I am right

handed so for those who are lefties, they may want to

reverse that process. When pulling the bamboo through

the draw plate, give it a good sharp pull, leading with the

end that was sanded down. Pull the bamboo through the

same hole several times, altering the angle of the pull in

several directions, and on each pull, changing the angle

slightly. I also make a point of flipping the bamboo strip end

for end and leading with the other end for a while before

flipping it back to the original end leading through the hole.

Only when you have the bamboo pulling through a hole

without any material coming off should you move onto the

next hole. If for some reason, the bamboo binds up, wet it

down with water and pull it through a few times.

An outboard view of a larger battle station model. Note the

planking seams and the use of bamboo tree nails. Also

note the painted wales.

III Bulwarks planking

The author's

drawplate and a

piece of bamboo

drawn down for

treenails

With the framing completed, you can now begin work on

the bulwark planking. You can begin on the inside or out-

side of the bulwarks; it matters not which. I began on the

outside. I like to mark out the run of the planks even though

they are straight and without any difference from end to

end. From the cross section plan, measure for the height of

each plank from the bottom of the base and transfer these

marks to each end of the bulwark frames. Again, use a

sharp pencil and measure carefully. Strike a line between

all the opposing points to get your planking reference lines.

I should say something about treenailing at this point. If you

wish to treenail the planking, it might be better to do it as

you go, rather than fit all the planks and then treenail.

Treenailing as you go makes it easier to line up the treenail

pattern because you can see the frames as you nail the

planks. For each frame, the plank should receive one

treenail centered in the upper outer corner of one side of

the frame; then another centered at the lower outer corner

of the other half of the frame. At the sides of the port, two

treenails go in arranged vertically, one right above the

other. I think a number 75 drill bit will be about right for this

scale.

Before actually cutting any planks, consider the finish of

the planking. I chose cherry for the wales and then painted

it black before installing the rest of the planking. This saved

me from having to mask off the areas of the planking that I

did not want painted. My idea was to have the black wales

and then a contrast of natural finished boxwood for the rest

of the upper planking. For the inner bulwarks planking, I

just used a natural finish, but you could paint the inner bul-

warks red or ochre if you chose. If you choose to keep

your planks with the natural finish, I would suggest using a

pencil to darken the edges of the planking on both the

inner and outer bulwarks. The seams will show up better

and enhance the finished look of your work. Of course, if

you paint, then there is no reason to darken the edges of

the planks unless you really want the seams to show up.

For this model, there is no absolute right or wrong finished

appearance, but you should consider the finish before you

begin to plank.

To make your treenailing material, a draw plate is neces-

sary. Many modelers are a bit shy about using a draw

plate. It is not that difficult. You can draw down any wood,

but I find, as have many modelers before me, that bamboo

is a good choice because it is easily split down its grain,

but is fairly sturdy across the grain. Bamboo is actually a

grass, but it seems to do very well imitating wooden

treenails. A couple of good sources for bamboo are the

skewers that you can buy at the local grocers and a long

fishing pole that can be had at the local bait shop. To use

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