History Costume Design - Viking Women.pdf
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Viking Womens Costume
Viking Costume – women
Mistress Barbara Atte Dragon
Cloth and Fabric
The types of textiles found from Vikings age are wool and linen.
These textiles were woven as either a simple tabby weave or a twill weave.
2x2 twill, Hald
broken diamond twill, Hald
Solid colors, natural fleece color, and natural dye colors are acceptable colors.
Colors are limited to ‘natural dye’ stuffs that were available during the Viking age for dying cloth and
yarn.
Woven cloth (wool) be woven fabric (dark warp, light weft) in 2x2 twills, herringbone or diamond twills.
Solid colors are fine too.
Lightweight wools for gowns and tunics; heavier ‘coat’ weight wool for caftan style coats and shawls.
Silk can also be added to the list of cloth but was used in strips that were sewn onto clothing for
decoration. Silk was also used for women’s caps (Jorvick) and as an undergarment (Birka). Silk should
have a fine hand woven appearance rather than the slinky, modern, shiny kerchief type silk.
Belts, ties, reinforcements for cuffs, necklines, and decoration were done with tablet/card weaving.
These bands were woven in wool, linen, silk and/or a combination.
When planning your clothing it is advisable to use wool and/or linen. We know that these fabrics can be
expensive. If you can find an acceptable blend, such as; linen/cotton, linen/ramie, and if the color
choice and weave are acceptable; then these will accepted as a first year attempt to be replaced by
100% wools and linens at a later date. Cotton may also be used if it has the appropriate appearance,
i.e. if it looks like linen.
Polyester, Acrylic and other synthetics will not be approved.
Machine sewn seams will be acceptable as long they are hidden.
Inside seams and hems need to be finished in some fashion. All visible seams must be hand sewn.
Garment Construction Notes
Hand sewing
Please refer to
Textiles and Clothing c. 1150-1450, Medieval Finds from Excavations in London, Cloth
and Clothing in Medieval Europe
, Essays in Memory of Professor E. C. Carus-Wilson,
Ancient Danish
Textiles from Bogs and Burials, A comparative study of Costume and Iron Age textiles
by Margrethe Hald for an overview of hand sewing techniques.
Undergarments
There is no evidence that undergarments were worn. One burial site showed a women that was buried
in an undergarment of a simple tube dress made of silk, ankle length, sleeveless, with a front opening,
neck slit, gathered and tied at the neck.
There has been some indication that women may have worn breeches and/leg wraps. We will leave
this up to your discretion, especially if there is inclement weather during the event. Breeches should be
made of linen or wool. Leg wraps are also linen or wool.
Gown
Dress can be made or either wool or linen (or silk for tubular underdress).
Choices are:
Linen or Silk Pleated 10
th
C
Eura 10C Finland or e
Hangerok with
Tube dress, sleeved or sleeveless
14CGreenland GoreStyle
broaches and necklace(s)
(shorter version worn as underwear) over gown - Linen or wool
Linen or wool
Or
+
OR:
9
th
-10C Finnish Viking gown in either
+
9
th
-10thCPeplos with shoulder broaches, chain
wool or linen
chains and personals (comb, needle cases, knife, etc.).
Hangerok (Apron) is a tube of fabric with shoulder straps. This could be worn over any of these
dresses. There are two ways that the apron can be ‘fitted’. With the tube cut and sewn, you can take
tucks/pleats under the arm and in the back or pleats can also be made in the back between the
shoulder straps. Shoulder straps are attached in the back and pinned in place with broaches in the
front. The hangerok can be worn with a tablet woven, rigid heddle woven or thin leather belt (no
buckle).
The Hangerok can also be cut with side panels (gores) added in the side to make the fit better and
allow for easier movement while walking. You can wear this style with or without a belt.
Two styles of hangerok
Pattern layout for hangerok
Chest
Waist
Hips
Cloth and
Clothing in
Medieval Europe
Eura dress pattern
Archeology of Novgorod, Russia
Ancient Finnish Costumes
Greenland gown and similar patterns are in the Appendix.
The Greenland gown can be a more fitted dress. It is cut with more side panels/gores sewn with middle
front and back gores for fullness. It can be made to fit loose or fitted. The Under dress is of linen or fine
wool, the over dress is linen or wool.
The Finnish Viking dress is just one rectanangle folded over (the length/width of arms + shoulders).
Head opening is made, under arm gores. The skirt is a gathered tube that is ankle length and sewn to
the top. Refer to drawing
Cloak, Shawl, Kaftans Coat
Book of Viking York
Cloaks are rectangular and pinned at the throat.
Shawls are squares; or folded to a triangle; or a triangle with/or without rounded corners.
Shawls are pinned at the throat with a trefoil broach.
The caftan coat is similar to a man's coat only the front points of both front panels are rounded. There
can be a train added in back and the coat is also fastened at the throat with a broach. The coat can be
made of wool or silk. It can be lined with silk or fur.
Turn shoes w/ rand, leather sole & toggle fasteners, Pratt, D.
Book of Viking York
Shoes
Leather was used for shoes. Women’s shoes are
ankle high or slippers.
Women’s boots do not come up as high as men’s
boots.
Refer to Ragnar accoutrement section for shoe
patterns & how to make a pattern to fit your foot.
Socks were nailbinded or felted.
Nalbinded socks
Nalbinded ocks. Coppergate stitch, Mack,D.
Archeology of Novgorod, Russia
Head coverings and Hair Nets
Hair nets can be made of sprang or netting technique.
You could probably make a loosely stitched hair net out of nalbinding as well.
Head coverings were simple:
1. Triangle or square of linen tied at the back of the neck.
2. A small Birka/Jorvick style cap (rectangle folded and stitched up the back) to make a cap.
3. A long rectangle of linen draped over head and ends placed back over shoulders.
Early Viking women did not cover their hair, it was worn in long braids or knotted at the back of the
head. Sometimes a scarf was worn over the head. Later Viking women (Christian influence) always
wore a head covering over their hair, young and old, the hair did not show.
Accessories
Jewelry were cast metals, glass beads, metal beads,
amber, semi-precious stones, or bone.
Bead necklaces with combinations of; glass beads; coins
(from trades); amber; semiprecious stones and quartz
crystal beads.
Solid silver and bronze bracelets.
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