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9. Unisex Sleeve
9.1 Introduction of z values
OTMS
PIAS
Only after having created an absolutely perfect fit for the
unisex bodice block unisex bodice block with dart
or
can the
sleeve be developed.
First the armhole then the sleeve!
The auxiliary lines required for an exact sleeve construction are not yet contained in the unisex bodice block. They have to be
created in the block, first. Then, open a new part in part organisation and insert the lines required for the sleeve. The lines
necessary for. The armhole lines and auxiliary lines must be entered into the z value menu.
z value
Description
Image
z1
front armhole curve
z2
back armhole curve
z5
z3
height armhole front
z4
height armhole back
z4
z5
½ across shoulder
z1
z3
z2
Only after having determined the z values the unisex sleeve can be called. When applying ease in the sleeve head curve,
notches for ease distribution will not appear. The majority of the ease can be gathered between deviations 1 and 2 and
deviations 3 and 4 because of the steep slope of the curve. The notches visible in the draft are the results of the additions at
the auxiliary lines (hypotenuse).
As opposed to the one-piece and two-piece sleeves, the front and back upper arm
width is not calculated from the body measurement upper arm girth (u Oa = g14).
The upper arm width front w Oa v and back w Oa h is calculated with the
theorem of Pythagoras:
Aufsatz 2
Aufsatz 3
b c a therefore b = c - a
2
2
a=hKu
i.e. for example: calculation front upper arm width
Aufsatz 1
Aufsatz 4
w Oa v = (U Äl v - average deviation front) - h Ku
2
2
b=wOav
U Äl v = length sleeve head curve front, h Ku = sleeve head heighTo be able to calculate the length of the hypotenuse, the
average deviation at the sleeve head is subtracted from the sleeve head curve (U Äl v). The formula for calculation of the
average deviation, sleeve head curve and sleeve head height are described in the drafting instructions.
The following body measurements are applied in the draft: l Ar, b Ak
9.2 Introduction of x values
x value Description
Standard Value
0
0
300
0
0
100
0
0
7
10
10
7
10
0
x1
elasticity length in %
x3
wrist width
x4
cuff height
x5
surplus length
x6
sleeve head height in %
x7
ease in front sleeve head in %
x8
ease in back sleeve head in %
x9
negative deviation ft sleeve h in % of h Ku
x10
positive deviation ft sleeve h in % of h Ku
x11
positive deviation bk sleeve h in % of h Ku
x12
negative deviation bk sleeve h in % of h Ku
x13
shape sleeve seams
x14
relocate hem
2= 2- 2
x2
elasticity width in %
403387872.003.png
PIAS
9. Unisex Sleeve
9.3 Application of x values and the effects of their alteration
69
elasticity length in %
(x1) The default setting is 0, i.e. stretch material is not considered. With positive
assignment, the programme reduces the length measurements of the whole draft
by the amount given.
elasticity width in %
(x2 )
The default setting is 0, i.e. stretch material is not considered. With positive
assignment, the programme reduces the width measurements of the whole draft
by the amount given.
wrist width
(x3)
T he x value for the wrist is pre-set to 300 mm and can be controlled as required.
cuff height
(x4)
The default setting is 0. With a positive value, the cuff height is subtracted from
he drafting measurement sleeve length or sleeve height (h Är).
The surplus length, pre-set to 0, gives additional freedom of movement. With
positive assignment, it is added to the drafting measurement sleeve length or
sleeve height (h Är).
The default setting is 100% of sleeve head height = 2/3 average armhole height
average armhole height =
surplus length
(x5)
sleeve head height in %
(x6)
½ (ft armholeh+bkahh)
Changing the percentage sleeve head height stretches or compresses the sleeve
head from the upper arm line to the sleeve head point, only. Stretching or
compressing the sleeve head influences the sleeve width: compressing the sleeve
width increases the sleeve width and vice versa.
ease in front sleeve head in %
(x7)
The default setting is 0, i.e. length front sleeve head = length front armhole.
With a positive value the required ease for the front sleeve head is added to the
front armhole length in %. The ease can influence the look of the sleeve. It
should be no larger than 7 - 10% total.
ease in back sleeve head in %
(x8)
The default setting is 0, i.e. length back sleeve head = length back armhole.
With a positive value the required ease for the back sleeve head is added to the
back armhole length in %.
negative deviation front sleeve (x9)
head in % of sleeve head height h Ku
The default setting is 7%, i.e. the negative deviation for shaping the front sleeve
head is 7% of the calculated sleeve head height.
positive deviation front sleeve head
in % of sleeve head height h Ku (x10)
T he default setting is 10%, i.e. the positive deviation for shaping the front sleeve
head is 10% of the calculated sleeve head height.
positive deviation back sleeve head
in % of sleeve head height h Ku (x11)
The default setting is 10%, i.e. the positive deviation for shaping the back sleeve
head is 10% of the calculated sleeve head height.
negative deviation back sleeve head
in % of sleeve head height h Ku (x12)
The default setting is 7%, i.e. the negative deviation for shaping the back sleeve
head is 7% of the calculated sleeve head height.
shape sleeve seams
(x13)
The default setting for the sleeve seam shape is 10 mm and can be altered as
required.
T he default setting 0 reflects the wrist height at the body. With a positive value
the sleeve is shortened, with a negative value the sleeve can be lengthened.
relocate hem
(x14)
OTMS
403387872.004.png
70
9. Unisex Sleeve
9.4 Drafting Instructions
OTMS
PIAS
Construction Line Direction Formula / Explanation
Image
from to distance
Drafting the reference line
0
1
h Ku down
h Ku = (2/3 d Ah) * 1/100 x6
0
average armhole height d Ah is calculated
from:
dAh=1/2(hAlv+hAlh) or
1/2(z3 + z4)
1
0
3
h Är down
hr=(½g29+g13-1/2lSq+x5-x4-x14)
sleev
* Dl
elength
or
(1/2g29+g13-z5+x5-x4 -x14)*Dl
i.e. the body measurement acromion width
(g29) is halved plus body meas. arm length
(g13) minus half across shoulder (z5) plus
surplus length (x5) minus cuff height (x4)
minus relocate hem (x14) multiplied by
length elasticity Dl
Dl= 100 / (x1 + 100%)
2
1
2
h Eb down
h Eb =
[1/2 (h Är-hKu)-30mm]*Dl
3
Drafting the cross with auxiliary triangles for front and back sleeve head
1
4
w Oa v left
w Oa v =
(UÄlv-
average deviation
v
) -hKu
2
2
0
UÄlv=UAlv*1/100 (100%+x7)
or = z 1 * 1/100 (100%+x7)
8
9
7
10
average deviation
v=
1/3 (x9 * 1/100 h Ku + x10 * 1/100 h Ku)
6
11
1
5
w Oa h right
w Oa h =
(UÄlh- ) -hKu
UÄlh=UAlh*1/100 (100%+x8)
or = z 2 * 1/100 (100%+x8)
4
1
5
average deviation
h
2
2
average deviation
h=
1/3
(x11 * 1/100 h Ku + x12 * 1/100 h Ku)
2
4;0
connect and measure; creates auxiliary line
5;0
connect and measure; creates auxiliary line
4
6
4;0
4;0
4;0
0;5
0;5
0;5
1/4 distance P4 P0
7
8
1/4 distance P4 P0
0
9
1/4 distance P5 P0
9
10
1/4 distance P5 P0
3
10
11
1/4 distance P5 P0
6
7
1/4 distance P4 P0
403387872.005.png 403387872.006.png
OTMS
PIAS
9. Unisex Sleeve
9.4 Drafting Instructions
71
Construction Line Direction Formula / Explanation
Image
from to
distance
Deviation for shaping the sle eve h ead curve
6
6'
deviation
to
4;0
deviation
1= -x9* 1/1000 h Ku
0
1
8'
9'
8
8'
deviation
to
4;0
deviation
2 = x10 * 1/100 h Ku
8
9
7
10
2
6
11
9
9'
deviation
to
5;0
deviation
3 = x11 * 1/100 h Ku
6'
HP1
1
11'
3
4
5
11
11'
deviation
to
5;0
deviation
4 = x12* 1/100 h Ku
4
Draw front sleeve head curve from P4 through P6', P7, P8' to P0.
Draw back sleeve head curve from P0 through P9', P10, P11' to P5.
Drafting the wrist area
2
4
HP 1 1/2
right
the position for HP1 (sleeve centre) is
determined by ½ of line P4 P5
4;5
HP 2
HP2 is the intersection point of HP1 and
the wrist line
HP 2 12
½
left
1/2 w Hd = 1/2 x3 * Dq
wHd
HP 2 13
1/2
right
1/2 w Hd = 1/2 x3 * Dq
HP2
3
w Hd
Dq = 100/(x2 +100 %)
12
13
Shaping the sleeve seams
12
4
connect; creates ft sleeve seam SN v
0
8'
9'
13
5
connect; creates bk sleeve seam SN h
8
9
7
10
12
14
½
half of front sleeve seam
6
11
SN v
6'
11'
HP1
1
4
5
13
15
½
half of back sleeve seam
SN h
14
14'
x13
to
12;14
sleeve seam shape, controllable via x13
2
15
15'
x13
to
13;15
sleeve seam shape, controllable via x13
14'
15'
14
15
Draw front sleeve seam from P12 through P14' to P4.
Draw back sleeve seam from P13 through P15' to P5.
12
12'
lengthen
required for right angle
13
13'
lengthen
required for right angle
HP2
3
12
13
Draw wrist curve from P12' through HP2 to P13'.
12'
13'
403387872.001.png
72
9. Unisex Sleeve
9.5 Quick x value reference
OTMS
LÄV
x10
x11
x6
x9
x12
LAV
LEb
x13
x13
LHd
x3
x values not displayable
x1
elasticity length in %
x2
elasticity width in %
x4
cuff height
x5
surplus length
x7
ease in front sleeve head in %
x8
ease in back sleeve head in %
x14
relocate hem
PIAS
403387872.002.png

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