A211_v02.pdf

5. Trousers

5.1 Introduction of x values

OTMS

This programme has been created from the basic idea of Dipl. Ing. A. Nattkemper and constant revision and development

by Dipl. Ing. E. Hillers. The group set themselves the task of considering every figure, if possible. Thus, this

solution offers a concept for made-to-measure clothing.Trouser fit is and will always be a philosophy.

OPTIMASS

The following body measurements are applied in this construction: u Ge, u Ta, l Se, l Sr, u Os, d Sp, Ge.

The body rise (l Si) is a result of the difference between waist to floor (l Se) and inside leg (l Sr). The waist to knee

measurement (l Kn) is a result from the construction instructions.

x value

Description

-40

500

440

120

100

-40

0.2

0.4

0.85

x10

x11

x12

x13

x14

x15

x16

x17

x18

x19

x20

x21

x22

x23

x24

x25

x26

x27

x28

x29

x30

x31

x32

x33

x34

x35

height relocate waist

height relocate body rise

height relocate hem

height turn-up

addition to waist

addition to hip in trouser front

addition to hip in trouser back

addition to thigh

width knee

width hem

dart content front (b LA)

dart content back (b GA

dart length back

position dart back in % from CB

drop waist at CF

reduce CF at waist

addition to CF at body rise line

reduce CB at waist

reduce crotch seam curve back

reduce inside leg seam back

add to inside leg back for shape-press

content 1 waist pleat

pivot point for 1 pleat in % from waist

additional ease to dart for 2 pleat at side s.

lengthen crotch seam

variable for abdomen-seat diameter front

abdomen-seat diameter in % for draft

relocate hip curve

relocate side seam towards front

relocate crease trouser back

form factor for side + inside leg seams

form factor for hip curve

form factor for crotch seam front

shrinkage warp

shrinakge weft

PIAS

Standard Value

OTMS

5. Trousers

5.2 Application of x values and the effects of their alteration

height relocate waist

(x 1)

The default setting is - 40. With this x value the waist line can be relocated

upwards (positive value) or downwards (negative value) as required.

height relocate body rise

(x 2)

The default setting is 0. For look and comfort the body rise can be relocated

upwards / downwards with a positive / negative value.

height relocate hem

(x 3)

The default setting is 0. With x3 the hem line can be raised or lowered. As a

rule, the wider the hem the less it is raised and vice versa.

height turn-up

(x 4)

The default setting is 0. When applied, the double turn-up width is added,

automatically.

addition to waist

(x 5)

The default setting 0. The ease can be added as required. If the waist line is

lowered, drastically the waist girth has to be checked on the pattern and

adjusted via x5 if necessary.

addition to hip in trouser front

(x 6)

The default setting is 15 mm. It should always be possible to allocate ease for

trouser front and back, separately.

addition to hip in trouser back

(x 7)

The default setting is 15 mm. To be applied as x6.

addition to thigh

(x 8)

The default setting is 20 mm. If the leg width resulting from the draft is

less than this control measurement the programme automatically adjusts

the width.

width knee

(x 9)

The default setting is 500 mm. This value can be altered as required. Grading

has to ensue via this x value.

width hem

(x 10)

The default setting is 440 mm. To be applied as x9.

dart content front

(x 11)

The default setting is 25 mm. The dart content can be controlled as required.

The dart is not drawn in by the programme. The content can be taken from

the first line at the trouser centre via the z value menu and can be drafted

manually at any position so that the dart is gradeable.

dart content back

(x 12)

The default setting is 35 mm; this can be determined, individually depending

on the shape of the seat.

dart length back

(x 13)

The default setting is 120 mm. This value can be adjusted as required but

should not exceed 2/3 l Ge (waist to hip).

position dart back

(x 14)

The default setting is 50%. The value can be altered as required.

drop waist at CF

(x 15)

The default setting is 10 mm. The value depends on the difference between waist

and hip. The larger the difference the larger x15 and vice versa.

reduce CF at waist

(x 16)

The default setting is 10 mm. The value controls the angle for the CF.

PIAS

5. Trousers

5.2 Application of x values and the effects of their alteration

OTMS

addition to CF at body rise line

(x 17)

The default setting is 0. This x value controls the angle of the CF.

reduce CB at waist

(x 18)

The default setting is 0. The value depends on the depth of the hollow of the back.

reduce crotch seam curve back

(x 19)

The default setting is 20 mm. If the value is increased the curve becomes shallower

and vice versa.

reduce inside leg seam back

(x 20)

The default setting is 10 mm. This value shapes the inside leg seam between knee

and crotch. The smaller the width at the knee the larger x20 and vice versa.

shape-press length

(x 21)

The default setting 5 mm. The length for shape-press depends on the width at the

knee and the elasticity of the fabric. The wider w Kn (knee width) the shorter the

length for shape-press and vice versa.

content 1 waist pleat

(x 22)

The default setting is 0. The pleat content is output as a line at the second point

and can be taken into the z menu and then drawn in as required.

height pivot point

(x 23)

The default setting is 100%. This x value determines the position of the pivot point

on the trouser centre front and applies as a percentage value from waist to hem

(visible as a point).

increase at side seam

(x 24)

The default setting is 0. When increasing the value the amount is output as a line

at he 3 point. The sum of the lines can be applied as waist pleats as required.

Waist pleats have no influence on the front waist width.

lengthen crotch seam

(x 25)

The default setting 0. With a positive / negative value the trouser back can be

raised /lowered at the waist.

variable abdomen-seat diameter ft

(x 26)

The default setting is 0. This x value is an addition to the front abdomen-seat

diameter and thus, the total diameter. Results in relocation of crotch seam.

abdomen-seat diameter for draft

(x 27)

The default setting is 74% and corresponds with a standard value of the g value.

For flat figures the value is reduced for lower figures it is increased as required.

relocate hip curve

(x 28)

The default setting is -40 mm. With this x value the most prominent point of

the hip curve can be moved upwards or downwards.

relocate side seam

(x 29)

The default setting is 10 mm. A positive value moves the side seam forward

and vice versa.

relocate crease trouser back

(x 30)

The default setting is 5 mm. By moving the crease in the trouser back the

symmetry axis of the trouser back is moved resulting in a longer crotch peak.

After shape-pressing the inside leg seam, side seam and inside leg seam can lie

correctly on top of each other again.

PIAS

OTMS

T rousers

5.2 Application of x values and the effects of their alteration

form factor side and

inside leg seam

(x 31)

The default setting is factor 0.2. This x value shapes the inside leg seam and the

side seam between knee line and body rise. The tighter the trousers the larger the

shaping and vice versa.

The default setting is factor 0.4. A smaller value makes the hip curve shallower

and vice versa.

form factor hip curve

(x 32)

form factor crotch seam front

(x 33)

The default setting is factor 0.85. The larger the value the shallower the curve and

vice versa.

shrinkage warp

(x 34)

The default setting is 0. This value is a percentage value. When using this x value

the draft is increased in y direction according to the amount given.

shrinkage weft

(x 35)

The default setting is 0. This value is a percentage value. When using this x value

the draft is increased in x direction according to the amount given.

5.3 Drafting Instructions

Construction Line Direction Formula / Explanation

Image

from to distance

Abtragung der Längenmaße

lSe

down

vertical reference line with length (waist to

floor) l Se (g19)

hTV

down

mark waist relocation

relocate waist using x1

lGe

down

mark the following distance on the reference

line:2/3 * (l Se-lSr)+20mm

hSr

(l Sr = inside leg = g20)

mark the following distance:

lSr+x2

(g20 + x2)

mark the following distance:

½lSr+90mm

(1/2 g20 +90 mm)

The knee height is not measured but

calculated. 90 mm is a standard addition.

hKn

hSa

mark the hem relocation x3

hem relocation ensues according to the

prefix rules in the co-ordinate system: (+)

upwards and (-) downwards

PIAS

5. Trousers

5.3 Drafting Instructions

OTMS

Construction Line Direction Formula / Explanation

Image

from to

distance

Drafting width measurements

LTV

left

draw lines from each point parallel to

the x axis

LGe

LSV

LKn

LSa

bGev

left

mark the distance:

bGev= g2+½x6-x29

(hip width front)

dSpv

left

d Sp = g35 * 1/100 x27

(abdomen-seat diameter)

dSpv=3/10dSp-1mm+x26

(abdomen-seat diameter front)

half of distance 9 to 4 creates point 10 on

hip line

trouser

centre

right

trouser

centre

up / down

vertical in point 10 downwards:

- creates point 11 on seat line

- creates point 12 on knee line

- creates point 13 on hem line

14/15

bKnv

left /

right

mark the distance on the knee line:

1/4 x9 - x29 (10 mm)

16/17

bSav

left /

right

mark the distance on the hem line:

1/ 4x10 - x29 (10 mm)

inside

leg

seam

connect points 9 and 14 with a straight

line and then points 14 and 16 with a

straight line

side

seam

connect points 4 and 15 with a straigh

t line and then points 15 and 17 with a

straight line

is a result of the intersection of line 9 to

14 with the seat line

drop a perpendicular from point 8 onto

the waist line (L TV)

PIAS

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