mail-truck-bank-plan.pdf

WOODWORKING

AND HARDWARE

Mail Truck Bank Plan

Build this nostalgic Mail Truck Bank and capture the imagination of a child!

This easy-to-build plan uses our Solid Brass Mailbox Door (#55358) to commemorate

the stalwart little truck that kept America’s mail moving during the 1920s.

Build the Basic Body

Step 1. Cut the fenders and sides to

dimension as indicated in Bill of Materials.

We recommend using cherry, although the

truck looks good in walnut, too. Stack cut

these pieces with double-faced tape, then

sand surfaces to lines.

Step 2. Transfer the full-sized Window pattern

to the top face of the stacked sides. Scrollsaw

the window to shape. Dado the inside face

of each side where shown on the Side drawing .

Reset the fence, and cut a 3/8" wide rabbet to

the same depth along the inside bottom edge

of the two sides. Finish sand both faces of the

sides. Now transfer the full size fender pattern

to the stacked fender pieces. Cut to size, sand

to shape.Then, glue and clamp a fender to

each outside face, aligning the ends of the

parts. Make sure you have the fenders oriented

correctly (larger wheel well forward).

After glue has dried, sand the fenders flush

with the contoured end of the sides.

Step 3. Cut the floorboard and cab wall

to dimension.To minimize wood movement

problems, cut the cab wall with the grain

running horizontally. Finish sand floorboard

and cab wall. Dry assemble these two parts

with the sides, and check for fit (seat the cab

wall in the dadoes and the floorboard in the

rabbet). Now glue and assemble the parts.

Check for squareness, then clamp.

and chamfer one of the top edges of the hood

blank.Turn the blank end for end, and chamfer

the other top edge. Crosscut a 2 3 ⁄ 4 " long hood

from the blank.Trace one end of hood onto

5/16" thick contrasting stock (we used a scrap

of rosewood).

Step 2. Bandsaw the radiator to shape.

Adhere radiator to the front end of the hood

using double-faced tape, then sand it flush

with the hood on all edges. Remove the

radiator from the hood. Using a marking

gauge, scratch a line 3/8" in from all edges

of the radiator. Scrollsaw inside the line to

remove the waste. File to the line.

Step 3. Grille is a piece of fiberglass screen

patch. Make a paper template, hold/tape to

screen and cut to size. Be careful to use

a sharp scissors, or the “fabric” will fray.

Step 4. Drill holes in the hood for the

Make the Hood

and Radiator Assembly

Step 1. Cut hood from 2" thick stock.

Move your tablesaw rip fence to the side of

the blade opposite its direction of tilt, then

set it 2 1 ⁄ 8 " from the blade.Tilt the blade to 45º,

1/4" round-over

with 1/16" shoulder

#4 x 3/8" flat head

wood screws

Thickness of F

should be 5/16"

Grille is a

piece of

fiberglass

screen patch

Solid Brass

Mailbox Door

3 5 ⁄ 8 " W x 5" H

5/16" hole

1 1 ⁄ 4 " deep

5/16" i.d.

flat washer

1/8 x 3/4"

dowel

3/4" dia.

wooden

headlight

#8 x 1 1 ⁄ 4 " flat head

wood screws

Sand flush with

fender after

assembly

5/16" hole

1 1 ⁄ 4 " deep

5/16" i.d.

flat washer

2 3 ⁄ 4 " dia.

spoked wheel

7/32" x 1 1 ⁄ 2 "

axle peg

Exploded View

steering-wheel column and headlights

(see Hood drawing) .Lay out a centered dowel

hole on each headlight. Clamp each one into

a handscrew clamp laid flat on the drill press

table, set the depth stop, and drill a 1/8" hole

3/8" deep. Glue the steering wheel to the

column, then glue the column into its hole.

Cut two 3/4" lengths of 1/8" dowel, and glue

one into each headlight. Glue the dowels into

the hood, and level the headlights.

Add the Seats, Bumpers

and Axle Blocks

Step 1. To make the seat parts, cut a 12"

strip of 1/4" x 1" stock. We chose cherry, but

walnut works well also. Cut a 4" strip from

the blank, and set it aside for the seat base.

Rout a 1/8" roundover along one edge of the

remaining blank, and use it for the seat bench

and back.

Step 2. Measure the cab interior, then cut

the three seat parts 1/8" too long. Using

a stopblock on your miter-gauge extension,

trim the parts to fit snugly. Next, glue the seat

base to the bench and the bench to the back

where shown on the Seat Assembly drawing.

Apply glue to the cab wall and to the bottom

edge of the seat base, then maneuver the

assembled seat into position without

smearing the glue.

BILL OF MATERIALS

Part

L Mat.

Qty.

AFenders*

1/4"

3/4"

10 1 ⁄ 4 "

C or W 2

BSides

3/8"

5 1 ⁄ 2 "

10 1 ⁄ 4 "

CFloorboard

3/8"

3 1 ⁄ 2 "

10 1 ⁄ 8 "

D Cab Wall**

3/8"

5 1 ⁄ 8 "

3 1 ⁄ 2 "

E Hood

2 3 ⁄ 4 "

FRadiator*

5/16"

2 3 ⁄ 4 "

R or W 1

G Seat Parts*

1/4"

3 1 ⁄ 4 "

H Bumpers

3/8"

7/8"

R or W 2

I Axle Blocks

J Roof

1/4"

4 1 ⁄ 4 "

7 7 ⁄ 8 "

K Cab Filler*

3/8"

3/4"

3 1 ⁄ 4 "

L Door Filler*

3/8"

7/16"

3 1 ⁄ 4 "

* Parts cut to final dimensions during construction. Please read all instructions before cutting.

** Grain direction on cab wall runs horizontally.

Materials List Supplies

C - Cherry • Solid brass mailbox door (#55358)

R - Rosewood • 2 3 ⁄ 4 " spoked wheels (#23556)

W - Walnut • 1/2" headlights (#29539)

• 1/8" dowel

• #4 x 3/8", #8 x 1 1 ⁄ 4 " flathead wood screws

• 5/16" i.d. flat washers

To order supplies with product #’s above, please call Rockler Woodworking and Hardware at 1-800-279-4441.

Fender (A)

Full-Sized

Pa ttern

Step 3. Cut each bumper to dimension (we

used rosewood), then bandsaw a 3/8" x 3/4"

notch in the back edge at each end where

shown on the Bumper drawing. Lay out a 1"

partial radius on each end of the front edge,

then sand these radii to the line. Drill two

1/16" shank holes through each bumper.

Center and glue a bumper to each end of the

floorboard. Using the shank holes as guides,

drill pilot holes into the floorboard. Now,

drive 1 1 ⁄ 4 " brads, set them, and fill the holes.

Step 4. Crosscut two 4" long axle blocks.

On one end of the blocks, locate and mark

a point 3/8" from one edge and centered side

to side. Use this point to position a tall fence

and stopblock on your drill-press table. Clamp

each block to the fence and stopblock. Meas-

ure the true diameter of your axle pegs, then

drill an axle-peg hole 1 1 ⁄ 4 " deep in both ends.

Step 5. After you’ve positioned the wheels

vertically, place the body on a work table that

allows you to view it from both sides without

moving it. Set the body on the assembled

blocks and wheels, then maneuver the wheels

to center them horizontally in the wells.

Now, adjust the wheels on the opposite side

to center them.Then make a pencil mark on

the floorboard along one edge of each block.

Turn the body upside down, and use a try

square to scribe a perpendicular line at each

pencil mark. Align the blocks with these lines.

Center them from side to side, then glue and

clamp them to the floorboard.

10 1 ⁄ 4 "

Window

Full-Sized Pattern

Assemble the Hood

and Door to the Body

Step 1. Center the hood on the front of the

floorboard so its back end is flush with the

back edge of the cab posts. Make faint pencil

marks to mark this location, then temporarily

adhere the hood to the floorboard with

double-faced tape. Drill and countersink four

shank and pilot holes — two in front of the

3/16" hole 1" deep drilled at 45º

1 1 ⁄ 2 "

Glue this edge

to floorboard

(front axle)

Axle Block I

Bumper H

1/2"

1/8" hole 3/8" deep

3/4"

3/8"

1/4"

3/8"

Glue this edge

to floorboard

(rear axle)

R=1"

1/16" pilot holes

5/16" hole

1 1 ⁄ 4 " deep

1 1 ⁄ 8 "

Hood E

1 1 ⁄ 4 "

3 1 ⁄ 2 "

2 3 ⁄ 4 "

7 7 ⁄ 8 "

Side View

3/8"

45º

1 3 ⁄ 4 "

3/8"

5 1 ⁄ 8 "

Cab Wall D

Roof J

1 1 ⁄ 8 "

4 1 ⁄ 4 "

Hood E

2 3 ⁄ 4 "

1 11 ⁄ 16 "

End View

3/8"

7 5 ⁄ 8 "

1/8" round-

overs

1/2"

3/8" dado

1/8" deep on

inside face

Radiator

2 3 ⁄ 4 "

1/4"

7/16"

Side B

3/8" rabbet

1/8" deep on

inside face

5 1 ⁄ 2 "

Seat Assembly

3/8"

1/16"

4 1 ⁄ 4 "

3/16"

3/8"

1/4"

10 1 ⁄ 4 "

1/2"

3/4"

3/16"

R=5"

5 1 ⁄ 2 "

Flooboard C

3 1 ⁄ 2 "

3 1 ⁄ 4 "

Cab

Front View

10 1 ⁄ 8 "

axle block, two behind it — through the

bottom face. Remove the hood, peel off

the tape, and set the hood aside for now.

Step 2. Position the mailbox door in the

back opening with its bottom edge resting

on the bumper. Mark the four screw-hole

locations for the mounting brackets with a

short pencil.We found it necessary to “drill”

holes using the #4 x 3/8" screws themselves,

which is not an elegant solution. However, the

mounting brackets on the door will conceal

any tear-out

Make the Roof, then

Add the Coin Slot

Step 1. Rip and crosscut the roof to

dimension. Using a 1/4" roundover bit, rout

the ends and then the edges. Lay out the coin

slot where shown on the Roof drawing. Using

a fence on your drill-press table, drill overlap-

ping 3/8" holes to rough out the slot. File or

scrollsaw the slot edges flat. Now, finish sand

the roof.

Step 2. Center the roof on top of the body,

then mark its location faintly on the under-

side. Apply glue to the top edges of the body,

position the roof, then gently clamp.

Step 3. To make the cab and door fillers,

cut a 3/8" x 3/4" x 12" blank.Then crosscut a

3 1 ⁄ 2 " long piece for the cab filler; trim it to fit

snugly between the top front ends of the cab.

Next, lay out a 5" radius arc on the bottom

edge, centering it 3/16" from either end.

Sand the arc to shape. Now, finish sand the

cab filler, then glue and clamp it to the

underside of the roof.

Finish and Final Assembly

Step 1. Apply a hardening oil finish to the

truck, hood assembly, wheels and axle-peg

heads.Wipe off the excess according to the

manufacturer’s instructions, then repeat. After

the second coat has dried overnight, apply a

coat of paste wax to the exterior surfaces.

Step 2. Attach the floorboard using flathead

wood screws. Next, mount the door in its

opening. Fit each wheel with an axle peg and

washer, then drive the pegs into their holes

in the axle blocks. Check the action to make

sure the wheels turn freely but don’t wobble.

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