billycart-soapbox-racer.pdf

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New-fashioned billycart
Your children will love this modern take on the old-fashioned billycart
R emember the fun you had as a child, whacking some wheels on a couple of bits of wood,
adding an old fruit box, and pointing the contraption down the nearest slope you could
find? Well here’s the billycart of the new millennium and it’s guaranteed to be just as much fun.
Here’s how
Step 1 From rear of chassis beam
(A), measure 200mm along one side.
Measure seven further intervals of
50mm. Draw a line down centre of
this side and mark hole centres with
a centre punch. Drill 10mm holes
through both sides of the chassis. On
top surface, drill
a 10mm hole through the beam, 17mm
from the front.
Step 2 Drill a 10mm hole in the centre
of the front axle bar (B), midway along
its length.
Step 3 Mark the centre of the back
axle bar (C) and the centre of the
end of the chassis beam. Align the
two marks and check the parts are
square. Tack-weld in place. If the metal
is galvanised, set up a fan to blow
fumes away from you and wear a fume
mask. Check the angle again, then fully
weld in place. Weld the end caps (D) to
the open ends of the bars and beam.
What you’ll need
Item Part Size Material
A Chassis beam 35 x 35 x 2.5 x 1250mm Steel square section
B Front axle bar 35 x 35 x 2.5 x 600mm Steel square section
C Back axle bar 35 x 35 x 2.5 x 650mm Steel square section
D End caps (5) 35 x 35 x 2mm Steel bar
E Braces (2) 20 x 20 x 2 x 800mm Steel square section
F Stub axles (4) 19mm dia x 130mm Steel rod
G Wheels (4) 10 x 1.75 (250mm dia) Solid steel/rubber
H Push/roll bar 35 x 35 x 1.5 x 1660mm Steel square section
I Steering arm 10mm dia x 1900mm Steel rod
J Chair Recycled plastic
K Seat carrier (2) 20 x 20 x 2 x 320mm Steel angle
L Seat spacer (3) 35 x 2 x 240mm Steel bar
M U-bracket (6 makes 2) 35 x 2 x 40mm Steel bar
N Sleeve (2) 12mm id x 100mm Steel tube
O Brake rod 12mm dia x 720mm Steel rod
P Brake pad (2) 35 x 2 x 65mm Steel bar
Q Spring bracket 20 x 20 x 2 x 50mm Steel square section
R Spring lever 12mm dia x 100mm Steel rod
S Spring 75mm Steel
T Brake handle 12mm dia x 520mm Steel rod
Step 4 Mark 30mm in from the ends
of the rear axle bar. Hold a brace
(E) with its outside edge on the
mark and so it just crosses the
chassis beam. Mark
the angles, cut, then weld between
bar and beam. Clean up all welds
using an angle grinder.
Step 5 On the underside, draw a
line along the
centre of the rear and front axle
beams. Round the ends of the stub
axles (F) slightly and drill a 3mm
hole through the axle, 8mm from the
outer end. Slip through a split pin,
add a washer, a wheel (G), then
another washer. Align axle beams
with the line and tack-weld at end.
Check alignment of wheels. Tap
axle with hammer to adjust. Remove
wheels or cover with several layers
of aluminium foil or leather to
protect against welding spatter. Weld
axles in place.
Note: id = inside diameter, dia = diameter
You’ll also need: eight 19mm washers; four 3 x 50mm split pins; 100mm x 10mm bolt with
three washers and nylon locknut; plastic seat without legs; two 50mm bolts and nuts; paint
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Step 6 Join the front axle beam to the
chassis with a 10mm bolt. Slip a washer
under the bolt head, between the bar
and the beam, and under the nylon
locknut.
Step 7 Set a sliding bevel to 50° and
draw a ‘V’ 700mm from each end of the
push-cum-roll bar (H). Cut out the Vs
with an angle grinder, without cutting
through the fourth side. Bend the bar
to two angles of 100° and weld along
the seams. Trim off bottoms to a 10°
angle. Centre the bar on the back axle
and weld.
Step 8 To bend the steering arm
(I), measure 175mm from the centre
of the rod and start a 50mm radius
right-angle bend by wrapping around
a 100mm pole. Repeat on other side.
When bent, the two sides should be
about 450mm apart. From the bends,
measure down 470mm and bend both
sides to about 150°. Trim off ends to
about 125mm long. Centre and weld to
the front axle bar. Lengthen or shorten
the steering bar as needed. If you
find the steering bar awkward to use,
replace with two eye bolts welded to
the axle bar and use traditional rope to
steer the cart.
U-bracket (M). Weld the sides to the
base, then weld to the seat assembly,
spacing the brackets so their holes
are 200mm apart and so they coincide
with the holes in the chassis beam.
The U-bracket gives four positions of
adjustment on the beam. Secure with
bolts.
to allow for a few millimetres of travel
before it hits the axle bar. Add two little
blobs of weld near the bottom of the
spring lever to contain the spring. Add
another two blobs of weld to the
brake bar, just inside the sleeves,
to stop lateral movement. Add the
spring (S) by hooking it into
the opening of the spring bracket and
between the blobs on the spring lever.
Let the spring hold the brake pad in the
off position, and weld the brake handle
(T) to the brake bar at a comfortable
height. Check that the brake pad clears
the wheels by a few millimetres when
the spring holds the brake off, yet
is effective when the brake handle is
pulled upwards.
Step 10 Slide the sleeves (N) onto the
brake rod (O). Cover the back wheels
with foil, and place the brake pad
(P) on the wheel. Weld the sleeves
to the push bar, allowing about 3mm
clearance for the brake pad. The left
sleeve is fixed flush with the inside of
the push bar, and the right one sits
20mm inside the push bar. Weld on the
brake pads.
Step 11 Weld the spring bracket (Q) to
the axle bar. Add the spring lever (R)
to the brake rod, sloping back a little
Step 9 Seat assembly construction
depends on the chair (J). Cut the two
seat carriers (K) and drill holes to
coincide with the screw holes in the
seat base. Note the distance they are
to be apart, and weld them to the three
spacers (L). Drill a 10mm hole, centred
19mm from the bottom edge on four of
the pieces that form the sides of the
Step 12 Remove seat and wheels, then
paint the frame, either by brush or by
applying several coats of spray paint.
Reassemble all of the components,
bending the ends of split pins so they
don’t fall out. Tape some padding to the
steering bar, brake handle and push bar
(pipe lagging is ideal) and you’re ready
to let her rip.
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