TuneUpPart1bJune2006.pdf

Opel CIH:

Ignition System

Opel 1.9 Engine

Firing Order :

1-3-4-2

Rear of

Engine

The Opel ignition timing

is designed to be set at TDC

(Top Dead Center).

Vacuum Advance

Connected by larger

hose, to ported

vacuum outlet,

on carburetor base

Adjustments are made to the point

gap (.018” on most), and operation

is checked at idle with a dwell

Meter. Dwell is to be set to

50 degrees +or- 2 degrees.

This test is to be performed with

the distributor vacuum hoses

disconnected and plugged.

Lower Front Crank Pulley

Can be rotated clockwise

with a 19mm wrench on

bolt, to align timing marks

Vacuum Retard

Connected by smaller

hose, to port on brake

booster tree fitting,

on intake manifold

Firing Order is 1-3-4-2.

Opel CIH Distributor (1970-73 type vacuum canister shown)

Internal Shaft & Rotor rotates clockwise when engine turns

(1) How to Verify #1 TDC Camshaft Sprocket Timing

Correct #1TDC

Generally, if an engine ran (without backfiring) prior to a tune-up, it can be

presumed the timing marks are probably in alignment. If the engine doesn’t

run, or backfires on cranking, or is low on power, then there is a chance it

may be caused by cam timing being off. To inspect timing marks for #1

TDC alignment, the camshaft dowel pin needs to be in the lower-center

“6 o’clock” position (1A), at the same time that the small ball marker on the

flywheel is lined up with the pin in a window, on the lower passenger-side

rear of engine (1B). Note: this is not how to align the cam timing but it is

how to verify if you are aligned for #1 cylinder firing position. Cam timing

is always done on #4 TDC, see below.

(1A) Camshaft Dowel Pin a t “6 o’clock” bottom -

and - Flywheel ball mark (1B) lines up with pin

To view the camshaft dowel pin, either remove the valve cover, or

remove the triangular plate (held with three 10mm bolts) on front of the

cylinder head. Use a flashlight, and consider the angle from which you are

viewing, to determine correct “6 o’clock” position of the camshaft sprocket.

To view the window where the flywheel ball becomes visible, look below

the manifold (near the oil pressure sender unit), until the ball rotates into

place (when the crank pulley on the front of the engine is turned with a

19mm wrench, preferably done with the spark plugs removed) (1C) (1D).

(1B)

Because Opel didn’t put a timing mark on the lower crank pulley until 1975 (and

later European) models, the marks on the front of the timing cover won’t help you.

#4 TDC :

Avoid This Common Mistake

when assembling an Opel engine:

A common error is when Opel

engines are assembled in the #4 TDC

position, but not rotated to #1 TDC

position before installing distributor.

This is because of mistakes in the service

manuals, and confusion caused because

the crank pulley groove and crank

keyway (& flywheel ball/pin) align at

“12 o’clock” when the engine is at both

#1 and #4 TDC . (Crank turns twice, to

every 1 camshaft rotation).

Sometimes, uninformed mechanics

install distributors 180 degrees off.

Therefore, the only mark location that

really counts, is the camshaft dowel pin.

— Cam dowel pin

at “12 o’clock”

(1A)

— Also ball mark

on edge aligns

through center of

sprocket (not just

vertically), with

slot in support plate

#4 TDC is correct

for Opel engine

assembly, but then

the crank pulley

needs to be rotated

360 degrees (one

full turn) to line up

cam sprocket for

correct timing

at #1 TDC.

(1C)

(1D)

www.opelclub.com (6/2006)

Opel Distributor Installation & Adjustment

#1 TDC

Once the engine timing marks are confirmed to be properly aligned,

then the distributor rotor should be located where it is pointing at the

mark on its housing for the firing position for the #1 cylinder.

Rotor

Loosen the 13mm bolt on the

distributor clamp,, to adjust or

remove distributor.

Distributor

Gasket, is

installed

dry (with

No sealer)

If the distributor is misaligned so

much that the rotor points to a firing

position for another cylinder, or so

that the vacuum canister is turned

close to the engine, then the

distributor should be removed

(which requires removing the

mechanical fuel pump first), then

reinstalled correctly (with its

thin gasket also set in place).

#1 TDC

Mark

Installation Position

15-20 degrees

To install the Opel 1.9 distributor

so that the rotor lines up with the

#1 TDC mark, you need to reach

into the distributor mounting area

with a long flat-blade screwdriver,

to rotate the oil pump gear cog to a

position approximately 15 to 20

degrees clockwise of the #1TDC mark, or to the position the dist. shaft requires.

Align gear cog

keyway, to

install distributor

Removing an Opel

distributor requires

removing the

mechanical fuel

pump first. Always

reinstall with the

required fuel pump

spacer gasket.

Distributor

keyway end,

must slide

into gear cog

for distributor

to fully seat

in mount hole.

In most cases, this is a position that would be about 4:30 on a 12-hour clock

(when looking straight from the fender). When you set the distributor in place,

the rotor will move counter-clockwise that 15 to 20 degrees (because of action

of the angled drive gear teeth on the distributor shaft). After installing the dis-

tributor correctly, then apply sealer to pump spacer and re-install fuel pump.

Opel 1.9 Distributor Notes

1968-1969 type : Features separate vacuum canisters for ignition advance and retard, which sit

on engine side of housing. Also has unique round-hole condenser and a unique 1968-69 only

distributor cap (has indentation on lower inside ring of cap).

1968 -1969

Advance

Vacuum

1968 -1969

Retard

Vacuum

1970-1972 type : Features combined vacuum canister for both advance and retard functions.

Has a round hole in casing for condenser wire. Breaker plates & vacuum canister are

non-interchangeable with 1973-74 type condensers and housings.

Lube Shaft Here

1973-1974 type : Appears identical to 1970-1972 type distributor, but uses a square hole

in casing for condenser wire. (A round hole type condenser will fit in this distributor,

but breaker plates and vacuum canister are not interchangeable with 1970-72 housings).

This model can be modified (with experience and skill), to full mechanical advance,

using parts from Bosch (VW) #A009 distributor.

(Round or

square hole?

Need to look here,

to verify

which type.)

Retard // Advance

1970 -72 and

1973 -74 types

1975 type: Originally installed only on factory fuel-injected 1975 Opels. Features internal

mechanical advance, retard-only vacuum port, and unique ignition points (set to .016” gap).

Sometimes installed on Opels modified with dual side-draft carburetors (which do not have

ported vacuum fittings for the vacuum advance ), or vehicles with high-lift camshafts

(producing irregular vacuum). No performance gain if you use it on a stock engine.

ALL Distributor Models, require maintenance: Place drops of oil onto the felt

(in the center of the top of main shaft), to help keep mechanical advance adequately

lubricated. Lubricate the points rubbing block and cam lobes with ignition lube.

There are slight variations in advance profiles between various distributor models (see

number on housing to verify applications). Also periodically disassemble, clean & lubricate

surfaces between the internal breaker plates and on the main distributor shaft lobes.

ALWAYS clean distributor housing where condenser is mounted, to assure good ground!

Rear of Car

Vacuum Retard

only (used with

Fuel injection)

1975 type

Distributors are known to wear on the internal central brass bushing over time, which causes

the main shaft to wobble excessively and wear out ignition point rubbing surface quickly.

Replacement of ignition points with electronic ignition systems will prolong failure, but the

solution is to replace worn-out distributors with rebuilt models.

www.opelclub.com (6/2006)

Opel CIH Ignition Point/Dwell Adjustment

Opel GT Ignition Point Set

Opel owners know, that the Opel distributor can “eat”

ignition points quickly. This is because the high RPM’s

of a 4-cylinder Opel engine, combined with improper

maintenance, wears the internal distributor bushings

within about 70,000 miles, and the center distributor

shaft “wobbles” on the rubbing block of the point set.

One symptom of worn-out points, is idle speed drops.

Higher voltage, caused by failing ignition coils and

circuit “resistance” wires to that coil, also results in

premature “pitting” on contact surfaces of point sets.

Point-Set

Hold-down

screw

“Top” of

shaft lobe

Inspecting

Contact

Surfaces:

Procedure :

(1) Unscrew the “hold-down” screw, remove clip to condenser, and remove point-set from distributor.

(2) Inspect the contact surfaces, to check for a flat surface or pitting. (In most tune-ups, standard procedure

is to just replace the point-set and condenser altogether).

(3) Assemble new point set in place, apply high-revolution ignition grease on the rubbing surfaces of the dis-

tributor shaft (occasionally, this comes in a capsule with the ignition point set).

(4) Rotate engine (with a 19mm wrench on the crankshaft pulley bolt, or by engaging 2nd gear and pushing

the car backwards), until the rubbing block of the point set rests easily upon the “top” of a shaft lobe.

(5) Use a “feeler gauge” of .018” (thousands of an inch) to set a gap between the contact surfaces, then snug

the hold-down screw.

(6) To check the accuracy of the setting: Install the distributor rotor, cap and wires.

(7) Then place the car in “neutral” gear or “park” gear (with brake on), then connect “Dwell Meter” to the

negative terminal of the ignition coil and a ground (a valve cover bolt is a good location for a ground).

(8) Start the vehicle, and read the setting on the Dwell Meter.

Results :

The needle or gauge should read at a steady 50 degrees, and shouldn’t vary more than 2 degrees (ie lower than 48 or

more than 52), even when accelerating the engine. If the needle varies more than 4 degrees, the distributor may be worn out.

(Note: Some older Dwell Meters use an 8-cylinder gauge: If so, correct measurement is 25 degrees, plus or minus one degree).

If reading is more than 52 degrees, the points are not open enough. Stop engine, and re-adjust the point set gap a bit more open.

If the readout is below 48 degrees that means the points are too far open. Stop engine and readjust point gap a bit more closed.

Repeat above procedure, until dwell readout is steady and within the proper measurement range.

Ignition Coil Notes :

The wire to the tachometer, connects to the coil’s negative terminal

If the tach gauge needle “jumps” a lot, this wire connector is loose.

Original style ignition coils have 1.5 ohms resistance

(measures 2.3 amps at the positive terminal with engine running,

and 13.5 to 14.5 volts alternator output).

A non -original “resistance type” coil (used when the

“clear” resistance wire” is replaced, measures 3 ohms).

Note :

The “Clear” coated resistance wire

limits current to the ignition coil.

This helps to prevent “pitting” on

contact surface of ignition points.

This “clear” resistance wire should

be replaced with a 1.8 ohm after-

market ballast resistor if the points

are pitting quickly, or when the

point set is replaced with an

aftermarket electronic ignition kit.

www.opelclub.com (6/2006)

Weber 32/36 DGEV Carburetor Installation

The Weber 32/36 DGEV carburetor is the most popular carburetor operated on the Opel 1.9 liter engine.

Unlike most Solex 32DIDTA carburetors, the Weber offers a steady idle speed, reliable performance, and generally

better fuel economy. Proper operation of the Weber 32/36 carburetor depends on correct installation and correct tuning.

Air Filter Option: 2 1/2” tall Weber air filter kit .

Most Weber carb installations also use the Weber air filter kit. The

other option, is using the Opel GT original air filter “cap”, with an

adaptor that mounts to the top of the Weber. To clear the underside

of the GT hood, it may be necessary to trim the lower edge of the

“cap” about 1/2”. Other alternatives include the “K&N” brand air

filter kit, and the newer Weber “air induction cap” (which works

with the original GT round air filter cannister).

Weber 32/36 DGEV Carb : -Electric-choke version shown-

Electric Chokes are the best upgrade, but Water chokes can also be used.

Note: Water chokes work best in relatively cold weather (below 45F).

Weber Aftermarket Air Filter

Original Opel GT Air Filter “Cap”

Current Weber versions are “series 33B” (inscribed on the lower edge,

facing the engine), and older 1970’s versions are the DGV “series 5A”.

Electric Choke

‘Key-On’ 12V source

on the fuse box. NOT

to the ignition coil.

Used Webers: Always check the throttle shaft on a used Weber for up and

down play at the “ ball nut” . An excessively worn throttle shaft bushing

indicates a high mileage carburetor and often coincides with a vacuum leak

at the shaft, which causes problems with tuning and idling.

Weber Throttle Linkage installation sequence . - Illustrated Below -

On a new Weber, remove the Weber throttle shaft nut & replace it with the

Solex Ball Nut . Also inspect the throttle linkage between the gas pedal and

carburetor including the firewall mounted grommets, lubrication of linkage

“ball” connectors.

Note: Fully depress gas pedal and

check for full carburetor operation.

If not. Adjust the throttle shaft on

the drivers side until carburetor

opens fully under full throttle.

Weber Model and

Series Markings

Seen on lower edge,

facing the engine.

Carburetor “Thick” Base Gasket, and (optional) Heat Shield with “Thin” Gasket :

Install a “Thick” base gasket to properly seal the carburetor to the manifold or heat shield

(if equipped). Use a high quality gasket sealer, such as “Permatex High Tack”, on all surfaces between

the top of the manifold and the bottom of the carburetor, to prevent common Opel vacuum leaks.

“Thick” Gasket

Other gaskets, such as the Weber “fiber” gasket, are too thin to seal properly or repel heat, and the

Opel plastic gasket restricts the 36mm barrel of the Weber. Installation without gasket sealer or with

improper gaskets, will allow vacuum leaks to form over time. These leaks will make tuning the Weber

carb more difficult, due to the resulting excessively “lean” condition. Note: Lean conditions raise

internal cylinder head temperatures (which can crack the exhaust manifold).

Heat Shield

“Thin” Heat

Shield Gasket

Note: In warm climates, installation of the Opel “Aluminum Heat Shield” will help shield the

carburetor from the exhaust manifold heat. This heat can cause a “vapor lock” condition, making the

vehicle more difficult to restart. Note: The heat shield requires an additional “Thin” mount gasket.

Intake Manifold :

The Intake Manifold uses studs with two thread pitches. 1.25mm pitch into the manifold, and

1.0 pitch for the carburetor mounting nut. The smooth portion of the stud helps to prevent

vacuum leaks. Factory Bulletins suggest the installed height of the studs, to be 1 1/2” above

the manifold surface. Original Carburetor Mounting Nuts sized 13mm.

Note: Many owners mount extra washers on the intake manifold studs, to reduce the number

of wrench turns required to tighten the carb mount nuts. Using a “stubby” (less than 3 1/2”

long) open-end 13mm wrench also helps greatly in this tight access area.

Check the for vacuum leaks where the manifold seals to the cylinder head, as well as for loose

manifold 15mm mounting bolts. Repair as needed. Make sure that the 4 central 15mm

mounting bolts use the 5/32” thick washers, with the thinner 1/16” washers on 2 end bolts.

Additional intake manifold hardware includes the “brake booster tree” fitting, connecting to the brake

booster vacuum hose. This fittings threads should be wrapped with Teflon tape, to prevent vacuum leaks.

Note: Check for leaking or cracked vacuum hoses and replace accordingly, before you can correctly adjust

the idle mixture and the idle speed.

www.opelclub.com (6/2006)

Weber 32/36 Carburetor Adjustment

Electric Choke

(Loosen ring to adjust)

(3a) Idle Jet

& Screw Mount

Weber Carburetor Adjustment Procedure.

(1) First, perform the various engine tests & adjustments;

Compression, Points, Timing, Vacuum, etc.

(2) Clean Carburetor with carburetor-cleaner, spraying down

the main throats of the carburetor (with running engine at

Idle Speed Screw

a fast idle, to prevent stalling).

(3b) Idle Mixture

Screw

(3) Carefully remove the Idle Jet (3a) and the Mixture Screw

(3b). Clean the jet and screw using the carburetor cleaner

as well as the carburetor passages. Reinstall the Idle Jet, &

fully screw in the Idle Mixture Screw, lightly bottoming

out the screw and back it off 2 full ‘360 degree’ turns.

Linkage Adaptor

Bracket & Ball Stud Nut

14mm Fuel

Inlet fitting

(reversible

on newer

models)

Hose Port for

Vacuum Advance

Passenger Side Linkage

(4) Next check the adjustment and full operation of

the carburetor acceleration linkage.

(4a) Check the 3 gas pedal to firewall mounting

screws are tight,

(4b) Ensure the ball and socket fittings on the link-

age are cleaned and lubricated. (check for missing

“spring clip” retainers)

(4c) Check that the two throttle grommets on the

firewall are present, clean and greased.

(4d) Adjust Throttle Control Rod, so that carburetor

linkage is fully opened when the gas pedal is floored

Driver’s Side Linkage (Linkage toward

(Drawings are Not to Scale) Carburetor)

(4c) Throttle

Grommet at

firewall

(4d) Adjust

Throttle

Control Rod here

Return

Spring

(4c) Clean

and lube rod

end, and

insert throttle

grommet

(in the firewall

area hole

closest to the

fender).

(4b) Spring

clip, attaches

rod end to

carb linkage

Automatic

Transmission

Detent Cable

Mount Hole

(if equipped)

(4a)

Gas

Pedal

Screws

NOTE: If equipped with an automatic transmission,

also adjust the “Kickdown” detent cable. (See Opel

factory service manual for instructions).

Attaches to Carburetor

Weber Carb Lean Idle Adjustment Method : (at home)

Run the engine until it is warmed up and the choke is fully opened and disengaged.

Rotate the Idle Speed screw counter-clockwise, until tachometer reads about 600-700

rpm’s (as low as it can idle, with the engine still running). Next rotate the

Idle Mixture crew (3b), also known as the fuel mixture adjustment screw) clockwise,

until the engine runs rough.

Next turn the Idle Mixture screw (counter-clockwise) 1/2 to 3/4 of a full turn, so that

the engine again runs smoother. Next increase the idle speed by rotating the Idle

Speed screw clockwise. Most Opels Factory idle speed setting is 850RPM, but most

owners adjust their idle between 1000-1100 RPM

Note: Too High of an idle speed will engage the distributors mechanical advance

affecting ignition timing.

a.k.a. Idle Mixture Screw (3b)

Usually this is a 8mm screw.

View is from the windshield

area, where carb linkage is.

Note: Above procedure is for home. Exact Fuel Mixture adjustment is performed at a shop.

Additional Weber Carb Notes :

Setting Choke: The choke is adjusted, by loosening the three screws on its “ring,” then

rotating the choke clockwise for less choke, and counter-clockwise for more choke.

Note: The Fast Idle Speed screw is located behind the choke itself, and can be adjusted

to increase or decrease the fast idle rpm. A good fast idle speed (when the choke is

closed) is about 1700 RPM

Water Choke: The hoses attach to 2 “T” fittings coming from the heater hoses.

Electric Chokes: Wire to the #2 fuse (same switched circuit as the radio) on the Opel GT fuse box.

Avoiding Vapor Lock: This is a particular problem with all Opel’s in Summer time. Route fuel hose away from all hot engine surfaces.

Only install fuel filters after the fuel pump near the carburetor, staying clear of the thermostat housing. Installing a clear plastic fuel filter

near the carb, will let you see when fuel is vaporizing. Carrying and using starter spray is a quick-fix. A Carburetor heat shield also helps.

Weber Fuel Inlet Fitting: Newer Weber carbs have a reversible 14mm brass fuel inlet fitting, so you can relocate the fuel hose away

from the engine.

Fuel Regulator: A good prevention move, is installing a “fuel pressure regulator” on the hose leading to the carb, set at 3.5psi. Some

new mechanical fuel pumps, and some aftermarket electric fuel pumps can develop excessive pressure (which can flood some Webers).

Additional Information: Weber technical guides discuss operational circuit function and provide float adjustment specifications.

Weber carburetors are also highly tunable. If you upgrade cams, exhaust, ignition, the Weber is easily tuned for

more performance by changing the main fuel and idle fuel jets. Replacement parts are also readily available.

Idle Mixture Screw Circuit Function

Too far in

Just Right

www.opelclub.com (6/2006)

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