Beading beadpoint bracelet white bead.pdf

Embroidered

drive, I was inspired when I saw

my mother’s bead collection.

I asked her if I could borrow a

selection of colors and some sequins.

Four days later I finished my first

bead-embroidered koi fish.

I searched the library for every book

and magazine I could find that had the

word bead in it. Then on the internet I

found Celia Martin’s site. I emailed her to

compliment her work and asked her

how she got started. She directed me to

the Celticat’s Bead Art forum

(http://forums.delphiforums.com/Bead

Art/). This site is very inspirational.

It was the desire to create something

that was mine that led me to my

embroidered collars.

determine the width and length of the

collar. Then I stabilize the fabric and

glue the focal bead in place. Once the

glue dries, I draw the design directly on

the fabric and embroider using a single

needle. The use of an embroidery hoop

is optional. When the last stitch is done,

I create a fabric sandwich with the beaded

front, Heat ‘n Bond, and the backing

material for the collar. To finish a collar

I bead a picot edge or do blanket stitch.

Determine the width and length of

the collar. Mine is 13 x 1 1 ⁄ 2 in. (32.5 x

4cm). You can use and modify the

pattern I’ve provided ( figure, p. 122 ), or

make your own. Be sure to include space

for the closure.

stabilize and mark the fabric

Decide if you will sew right on the

fabric or if you will use a stabilizer. You

may want to stitch directly on leather,

whereas with ultrasuede you can use

Pellon or woven interfacing ( photo a ).

If the fabric frays, I use Fray Check, or

iron Heat ‘n Bond on the fabric and

then iron it to an interfacing.

Mark the collar dimensions directly

on the collar fabric.

Glue the focal bead to the center of

the stabilized fabric. Let the glue dry as

specified by the manufacturer.

Draw the pattern for the collar

around the focal bead using a pencil or

pen that fades ( photo b ).

getting started

Choose a focal bead or cabochon. It

must be a size that will fit comfortably

on the neck without being too long or

heavy. Comfort for the wearer also must

be considered. Also keep in mind that

you will bead around the cabochon at

least once.

Select the focal bead, then find beads

that work as accents. I use some larger

pressed-glass beads and work seed beads

around them. Bugle beads work also.

step by step

The focal bead or button is the starting

point for my collars. It helps in part to

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bead collar

A fter three years of having no artistic

Make your own statement

with beaded backstitch

by Bev Coles

selecting the beads

Use colors that are not all the same

shades. Show your creativity by making

a bead soup and throwing colors

together ( photo c ).

Mix sizes, such as 8

, 11

, and 15

materials

• 1 Focal bead, cabochon, or button

• 2 or more Large beads, cabochons,

or buttons

•A mixture of seed beads, size 80-150,

various shapes and finishes

•A mixture of pearls, various shapes

and sizes

• Bugle beads and charms (optional)

• Ultrasuede, suede, or other fabric for collar

front

• Ultrasuede, suede, or other fabric to

back collar

• Fabric glue such as Gem-Tac, permanent

adhesive

• Pellon or a heavy woven interfacing

• Beading thread to match fabric

• Beading needles, #10 or 12

• Heat ‘n Bond, ultra-hold adhesive

• Findings of your choice such as pinch clasp,

lobster claw, and chain

• Dritz Fray Check seam sealer, optional

Tools : embroidery hoop, optional

and shapes of beads. Square, triangle,

round, or bugle beads all work. Vary the

textures and finishes of the beads as well.

bead embroidery

Don’t limit yourself to following the

drawing too strictly – you don’t have to

stay inside the lines. I prefer just to start

beading and go with the flow but this

does not work for everyone. When you

embroider, use beading thread in a color

that matches your fabric.

Use single-needle backstitch (see

“Basics,” p. 162) throughout the piece.

Pick up 1-8 beads. (Add 1 or 2 beads per

stitch when surrounding the cabochon

or working in small or curved areas and

3-8 beads when stitching straight lines.)

Bead & Button • October 2003

121

For illustration purposes only. Redraw to fit your needs.

Start with the focal cabochon

( photo d ) and bead all the way around

it to create the base row. Make sure

there is no gap between the first and last

beads; you may have to cull the beads to

find one that fits. For that last stitch, do

a normal back stitch, but continue

through the first bead of the row. This is

where you step up for the second row.

Row 2 is the first row of peyote

stitch (see “Basics”). Pick up a bead,

skip the next bead on the base row and

go through the next bead ( photo e ).

Continue around the cabochon adding

a bead through every other bead in the

base row. Keep the tension tight.

When you get to the end of the row,

pass the needle through the first bead of

row 2. This puts you in position to

begin row 3.

Depending on the size and shape of

the cabochon, you’ll either work plain

peyote for the third row, or you’ll do a

number of evenly spaced decreases (see

“Basics”). Weave the end of the thread

into the last row and dab with glue.

With a new thread, begin stitching

on either side of the cabochon. The

work goes faster because you can apply

6-8 beads per stitch. Backstitch through

half the number of beads picked up.

Bugle beads can be stitched

horizontally or vertically. Come up

through the fabric, thread on a bugle,

and slide it to where the thread exits the

fabric. Pull gently but tightly and snug

the bead in place with the tip of your

needle. When it is snug, sew through the

fabric ( photo f ).

To stack beads on top of each other

(bottom row, photo g ), come up

through the fabric. Pick up the bead

that will be closest to the fabric, then the

bead that sits on top of it. Skip the

bead just strung, and sew back down

through the hole of the first bead

strung ( photo h ).

Work one side for 1-2 in. (2.5-5cm)

then move to the other side and repeat

the design in the opposite direction.

Alternate from side to side until you

finish beading the front of the collar.

You may also incorporate unbeaded

areas in your design.

apply the backing

With iron-safe fabrics, set the collar

face down on a towel (you may want to

fold it twice to provide extra protection

for the focal bead). Iron Heat ‘n Bond to

the back of the collar, and cut away the

excess. Then remove the paper backing

from the Heat ‘n Bond.

Cut the fabric for the back of the

collar to the same dimension as the

front. With the right side facing out,

align it on top of the Heat ‘n Bond and

iron it in place.

finishing

Once the front and back are bonded and

are cool to the touch, finish the piece by

beading or stitching around the edges. I

do a picot-beaded edge. You could also

work around the edges doing blanket

stitch with embroidery floss.

To do a picot stitch, begin a new

thread and start at one edge of the collar.

Come through the beaded front 1 ⁄ 16 in.

(1.5mm) from the edge.

String 3 beads. *At one beadwidth

from the first stitch, go through the

edges of the layered fabrics from back to

front. Without piercing the fabric again,

go up through the last bead strung and

string 2 more beads ( photo i ). Repeat

from * around the top and bottom

edges of the collar.

My collar has a pinch clasp (Rio

Grande 800/545-6566) with a 2-in.

(5cm) chain and lobster claw clasp. If

you are working with leather you can

punch holes in it to create a lace-up

closure. Use a type of clasp or closure

that works with your style of collar. w

Bev lives in Calgary, Alberta, Canada. You

can contact her via e-mail vampi@shaw.ca

or phone (403) 720-8020. Visit her website

http://vampi.gaultsgultch.com.

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