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ŁÓDŹ

September - December 2009

EC1

The Third Coming

Plac Wolnosci

Heart of the City

N°11 - 5zł (w tym 7% VAT)

www.inyourpocket.com

ISSN 1896-1169

CONTENTS

ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES

Contents

Arriving & Transport

The Basics

Culture & Events

Highbrow activities

Where to stay

For all pockets

Dining & Nightlife

The highs and lows

Cafés

The opening of Manufaktura was like a second coming to

Lodz, now, astonishingly, it looks like a third coming could

be on the cards. Taking up a space of 90 hectares the EC1

project stands to change the face of Lodz forever. Read

Directory

Maps & Index

City centre map

City map

Country map

It might not compare to Trafalgar Square, but pl. Wolnosci

is not without its own charm – or statue for that matter.

Find out more about the citiy’s very own octagonal square

on p 28. Photo by Marek and Ewa Wojciechowscy.

Street index

andel‘s Hotel Łódź

ul. Ogrodowa 17, 91 - 065 Łódź

Tel: +48 42 279 10 00, Fax: +48 42 279 10 01

www.andelslodz.com, e-mail: info@andelslodz.com, www.vi-hotels.com

Listings index

Features index

lodz.inyourpocket.com

September - December 2009

FOREWORD

Whatever mode of transport you choose, entering

Lodz is a pretty discouraging experience. Shabby

tower blocks stacked like the devil’s dominos

stretch as far as the eye can see, before being

replaced by classic factory tenements that haven’t

seen a spruce since electricity was considered

edgy – indeed, it probably still is in these parts of

town. Traditionally a working class city, Lodz didn’t

do much work in the 90s, the result being a grim

ghost town left to rot while the rest of Poland cart-

wheeled away in a capitalist head rush. The state

sponsored grants ran out and unemployment hit

20%; this bastard child of the Industrial Age was

dying.

So, here’s some good news. Rather than waving the

white flag the town is on its way back, buoyed by a

surge of local pride and international investment.

True, much of it looks like post-combat Beirut, but

this is not a town short on charm. What it lacks in

traditional tourist material it makes up for with the

obscure; put Lodz on Mastermind and its specialist

subject would be the bizarre. Where else, for

instance, will you find sewers open for spectators,

or rickshaws in blizzards. That there’s a cinema

handing out discounts to anyone who arrives with

a lemon shouldn’t come as a surprise. It’s not a

little leftfield, it’s positively bonkers, with a young,

youthful spirit intent on celebrating the strange.

It all makes for a potent cocktail, and no-where

is this energy more evident than the main

thoroughfare – ul. Piotrkowska. It’s here, no

doubt, you’ll spend most of your time, but don’t

forget the side streets, themselves home to

shadowy courtyards and peeling palaces, or the

Manufaktura project to which the city owes much of

its renaissance. Just as exciting, the area round the

train station is in line for a massive redevelopment

that would see it assume a new role as the heart of

the city. Exciting times, enjoy them.

Europe In Your Pocket

ul.Wigury 4/6, Łódź

tel. 042 636 86 86

www.revelo.pl

Opening hours: 12.00 - 23.00

ul. Stefanowskiego 17, Łódź

tel. 042 651 99 99

www.gesipuchrestauracja.pl

Opening hours: 12.00 - 23.00

Our team in Russia is preparing a rather special In

Your Pocket guide right now to tie in with the 1150th

aniversary of the city of Velikiy Novgorod . Look out

for a special supplement in our next Russian guides

and online at russia.inyourpocket.com . Elsewhere,

you can now get your hands on Sarajevo In Your

Pocket when visiting the Bosnian capital, and

the same team - who have successfully pocketed

Slovenia and Bosnia - are now turning their attention

to Italy , and to Venice .

We welcome enquiries from anyone who would

like to take part in our Pocket Revolution, either by

contributing content or starting up an IYP. Send us

an email at publisher@inyourpocket.com .

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ESSENTIAL CITY GUIDES

Editorial

Editor Alex Webber

Assistant Editor: Karolina Montygierd-Łojbo

Research Małgorzata Frydryszewska,

Paweł Perwejnis

Events Klaudia Mampe, Vaughan Elliott,

Łukasz Jankowski

Design Tomáš Haman

Photography Alex Webber, Rentapocket,

www.wikipedia.pl

Cover Paweł Wojtyczka, CFK PTTK

Sales & Circulation

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Circulation: Bartosz Matyjas 058 555 98 18

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Warszawa/Łódź

Manager: Marta Ciepły 0606 749 643

Wrocław/Poznań

Manager: Anna Wyrzykowska 0606 749 642

Gdansk/Bydgoszcz

Manager: Bartek Matyjas 058 555 98 18

Text and photos copyright WIYP Sp. z o. o.

1999-2009. Maps copyright cartographer.

publication may be reproduced in any

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Editor’s note

The editorial content of In Your Pocket

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readers‘ comments and suggestions.

We have made every effort to ensure

the accuracy of the information at the

time of going to press and assume no

responsibility for changes and errors.

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EC1

Lodz fan) – they handed the job of drawing up the masterplan

to Rob Krier, a Luxembourg born architect with a string

of accolades to his name. What he came up with was a

complete restructuring of the area between ul. Kilinski,

Kopcinskiego, Narutowicza and Tuwima, while all the time

foll owi n g base el e m e n ts o f arc h i te c tu re th at make L od z wh at

it is. Krier, allegedly in dispute with the Poles on the board of

the World Arts Foundation, has since left the project, but his

principal ideas haven’t.

Lodz is the city that run out of luck. In slow decline ever

since the demise of heavy industry, the new millennium saw

the city well and truly hit the seat of its pants. If there was

bad news in Poland, you could bet your last nickel Lodz was

involved somewhere; mafia hits, unemployment, ambulance

drivers killing their patients etc. The list could go over the

page. Then, weirdly, just as it looked like it was going to

spontaneously combust along came Manufaktura. For the

first time in years Lodz was making headlines for the right

reasons. Manufaktura signalled, for the sake of a dramatic

drum roll, a second coming.

So, what to expect. First off, EC1 itself is actually the local

name for that aforementioned menace, the disused factory.

Originally constructed in 1907 the plant supplied power to

the city up until 2001, after which it was allowed to fall into

disrepair. The project to breathe life back into this area will

be divided into several stages, with the plant and surrounding

areas split into various sections. EC1 East, for instance, has

been earmarked to serve as a cultural space, with plans

for a groundbreaking planetarium as well as studios and

workshops for people of various arts. A viewing tower will be

incorporated into one of the existing chimney stacks, while a

‘global gallery’ will include ‘transparent walls filled with sets

of five books picked by people from across the world’. Even

more intriguing, expect the creation of a ‘Memory Lake’, a

multimedia exhibition where people from Lodz can donate

various bits and pieces so future generations can see how

the locals once lived.

Lodz hasn’t looked back, and today the pride and new

prosperity is palpable. So imagine, if you will, a third

coming. Amazingly, this could well yet happen, and that’s

down to a scheme called EC1. If that sounds like a secret

Bond project it most certainly isn’t, it’s even better than

that. In short, what EC1 entails is the redevelopment of 90

hectares of downtown Lodz, turning what was previously a

right eyesore into a huge art, culture, residential and work

complex. Woah indeed.

The Place, The Plan

Most visitors to Lodz will at one stage no doubt comment on

the way the city looks. More to the point, how badly it looks.

They’ve got a point. For the most part the city is a tangle

of blackened buildings from the fin-de-siecle, themselves

interspersed with monstrosities born out of the communist

era. To this extent, the first pig out of the pen has to be Lodz

Fabryczna station, a vile looking concrete carbuncle that does

a good job in leading people straight back to the direction

they’ve just arrived from. Even if it’s Warsaw. Worse still,

there’s that disused factory towering behind Fabryczna like

an ugly thug. This, ladies and gentlemen, is where the EC1

project will take fruit.

EC1 West on the other hand will house an interactive

science and technology centre inside restored factory

buildings, while EC1 South East has already been acquired

by SE-MA-FOR Film for use as a studio. Yet still, the story

gets madder. Also on the cards is a ‘Special Art Zone’,

a multi-storey oblong-shaped building wrapped in a

fantastical looking glass tube. The vision includes not just

a creative space, but for the creation of one of Europe’s

leading modern art galleries. This focus on Europe, the

world even, is evident throughout the whole project, but

never more so than in th e ‘Special Cul tural Zone’, which will

se e th e creati on o f s c ores o f pu bli c pla c es ea c h prese n ti n g

and promoting a different culture.

Nasz zespól z przyjemnością powita Państwa w Łodzi. Dołożymy wszelkich

starań by uczynić Państwa pobyt komfortowym.

Our team look forward to welcoming you to Łódź and making your stay as

comfortable as possible.

• Recepcja czynna całą dobę

• 104 klimatyzowane pokoje

• Restauracja na 80 osób otwarta 7 dni

w tygodniu

• 3 sale konferencyjne o łącznej

powierzchni 171m 2

• Bezprzewodowy dostęp do Internetu

• Parking dla samochodów osobowych

i autobusów

• Recepon desk open 24H

• 104 air-condioned rooms

• Our 80 seat restaurant is open

7 days a week

• 171 m 2 of conference space

(in 3 separate meeng rooms)

• Wi-Fi Internet Access

• Parking for both cars and buses

Yet while art and culture play a core role in the whole

regeneration, they’re merely the cherry on the cake. A

world class conference and congress centre is also in the

pipeline, as are numerous commercial endeavours such

as offices, hotels and residential spaces. However, this

is no Field of Dreams. ‘If we build it, they will come’, is no

mantra to follow in anywhere but film, and for this part the

redevelopment of Fabryczna station is key to success. The

station as we kn ow i t will disappear, li terall y, possi bl y a f ter a

globally popular competition to find an individual to light the

dynamite. Instead a new station will be built sixteen metres

below ground, and with it a string of subterranean tunnels

to form what can almost be described as an ‘underground

villa ge’. I t sou n d s great on pap er, we j ust h op e th e d esi gn ers

learn some valuable lessons from the catacombs of Warsaw

Central prior.

The story goes thus. In February 2007 Lodz city authorities

finally decided to do something about the state the town

found itself in. In co-operation with the World Arts Foundation

– fronted by Andrezj Walczak, Marek Zydowicza (head of the

Camerimage Festival) and David Lynch (a self-confessed

The plans are indeed stunning, and you’ll find graphic

visualizations and various bits of bumph available on

www.ec1lodz.pl. But the big question is when will work

start, and just as importantly, when will it end. The

Poles don’t have much of a record for promptness in the

construction sector, and credit crunch reality threatens

the scheme further. Nonetheless developers and city

officials are adamant that work will kick off in the next

year, with a finish date sketched for 2016 – the very

year Lodz hopes to be fulfilling the role of the European

Capital of Culture.

AL. PIŁSUDSKIEGO 27 , TEL: +48 0 42 664 26 00

EMAIL: LODZCAMPANILE.COM.PL, WWW.CAMPANILE.COM.PL

Łódź In Your Pocket

lodz.inyourpocket.com

ARRIVING & TRANSPORT

In spite of being Poland's second biggest city Łódź's links

to the outside world leave much to be desired, though

the birth of the budget flight has opened new routes to

England. Travelling to other destinations in Poland, barring

Warsaw that is, can be a trial. Fortunately once you're here

you'll find the city has a well-developed tram and bus net-

work as well as a bountiful supply of cheap taxis. If you're

traversing Piotrkowska, the principal high street, then take

advantage of one of the dirt-cheap rickshaws that zip up-

and-down the street.

having even a single beer - this did nothing to deter the prat

who was arrested outside Warsaw in September with a blood/

alcohol level of 9.5‰ (approximately 24 pints). You can use

your home driving license or an international driving permit for

six months from the entry date on your passport. Carry your

license and passport at all times if you're driving.

The speed limit is 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between

23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 110km/

hr on dual carriageways and 130km/hr on motorways. All

cars are required to carry a red warning triangle, first aid

kit, replacement bulbs and a national identity sticker. A new

law was introduced in April 2007 making it compulsory to

have headlights switched on at all times. Car related crime

is high and drivers should make use of guarded car parks

where possible.

By train

With the city lying in the centre of the country, Lodz is

a crossroads for many of the rail networks covering the

country. It doesn't actually have one central station though

which means trains pass through Lodz using two of the

three main stations - Kaliska (generally for east/west

routes) and Widzew (north/south routes). The third major

station is Lodz Fabryczna and while being the most central

of the three, it is also a dead-end with trains from Warsaw

terminating here.

Train schedule

From Łódź To Łódź

Dep. Arr. Destination Dep. Arr.

04:51 06:29 (1)WARSAW 06:20 07:54

05:51 07:29 WARSAW 07:20 08:51

06:51 08:29 WARSAW(1) 08:20 09:51

08:58 10:29 WARSAW 09:20 10:57

09:58 11:29 (1)WARSAW 11:20 12:51

10:58 12:29 WARSAW 13:20 14:51

12:58 14:29 WARSAW 15:20 16:57

14:58 16:29 WARSAW(1) 16:20 17:57

15:58 17:59 (1)WARSAW(1) 17:20 18:57

16:51 18:29 (1)WARSAW(1) 18:20 19:53

17:58 19:29 (1)WARSAW 19:20 20:51

18:58 20:29 (1)WARSAW(1) 20:20 21:51

20:58 22:29 WARSAW 21:20 22:57

From Łódź Widzew To Łódź Widzew

06:24 10:55 (2)KRAKÓW 09:05 13:36

14:38 19:19 KRAKÓW(1)(3) 17:15 21:33

From Łódź Kaliska To Łódź Kaliska

05:47 13:33 GDYNIA 07:32 14:14

09:53 17:36 GDYNIA 11:34 18:15

13:57 21:44 GDYNIA 15:30 22:07

06:36 11:10 POZNAŃ 05:30 10:10

08:33 13:21 (1)POZNAŃ 08:50 13:16

13:33 18:44 POZNAŃ 15:50 20:14

15:33 20:28 POZNAŃ 17:35 21:34

09:54 14:10 WROCŁAW 05:30 09:45

13:58 18:16 WROCŁAW 09:30 13:46

17:55 22:14 WROCŁAW 13:30 17:45

(1) - Mon-Fri (2) - Mon-Sat (3) - Sun

Most trains running to and from Gdynia stop at Gdańsk

and Sopot. Journey time is 30 minutes to Gdańsk and

10 to Sopot.

Note: Trains are subject to change on public holidays.

Train schedule is subject to change due to ongoing

works (track improvements).

By bus

Łódź bus station takes up the eastern part of a combined

central train (Fabryczna) and bus station. Buy a ticket to des-

tinations including Warsaw and Gdansk from any window and

get information with the help of Polish speaker from window

N°10. Left luggage lockers (4zł - 8zł/day) are coin operated

and can be found in the ticket hall. Modernised toilets (2zł)

are down the stairs just to the right of the ticket windows.

While the Lodz - Warsaw line is undergoing a major re-

build which will reduce travelling times to the capital to

little over an hour, the remaining lines passing through

Lodz are in serious need of improvements. You can take

trains directly from Lodz to most major Polish cities but

the speed on many can be torturously slow. At present a

250km journey to Krakow will take the best part of four

and a half hours and there are not many direct connec-

tions a day. Alternatively Gdansk, 370km away will take

nearly 7 hours. It is worth checking the useful website

http://rozklad-pkp.pl for the best connection but you

will often find the quickest way, especially once the new

line is open, is to travel to Warsaw and then onto your

destination from there.

Arriving by car

Connecting Łódź with the outside world are the E75 running

north, the E30 going north east, the west bound A2, the south

running E75, and road number 72 heading to the east. Once

in Łódź the first thing you'll notice is the treacherous state of

many of the roads, and you'd be advised to make sure the

shock absorbers are in full working order. Car crime in Poland

is rife, and we fully suggest taking advantage of one of the two

guarded car parks in the city - find them listed in Transport.

If you're parking on the street you'll be paying 1-2 złoty per

hour depending on which zone you're parked in.

By plane

Łódź Władysław Reymont Airport (Port Lotniczy Łódź im.

Władysława Reymonta) now has just the one terminal, with

domestic flights from what was once Terminal One now

suspended. International flights to Dublin, London, Vienna,

Copenhagen, Tel Aviv, Edinburgh, Bydgoszcz, Oslo and Shan-

non are provided courtesy of RyanAir and Jet Air, with pas-

sengers deposited inside a warehouse structure that fulfills

all the basic needs but little else.

Hertz and Avis have car hire stands, and you'll find an ATM to

withdraw Polish currency - a currency exchange office (kantor)

can also be found, its opening hours structured around flight

times. If you're in trouble then there's also a police point. A

tourist information point is on hand to deal with any queries

while a café/bar called Wojaż has also been added.

Taxis hover outside the terminal as and when planes arrive,

and a journey to the centre is around 30-35zł if you chance

on an honest driver. The bus stop is directly opposite the

main entrance and, like Terminal One, is serviced by bus

numbers 55, 65 and L. Tickets valid for 10,30, 60 and 120

minutes can be bought at kiosks and are priced at 1.70zł,

2.40zł, 3.60zł and 4.80zł.

If you want to call home there's a few phone booths scattered

around with chip cards available from any kiosk. To connect

to a Polish mobile network you'll need a SIM card and pre-pay

cards, both of which are available from the café and kantor.

Łódź Władysław Reymont Airport F-5, ul. Gen.

Stanisława Maczka 35, tel. 42 688 84 14, www.

airport.lodz.pl. Łódź’s airport handles flights to and from

Dublin, London, Vienna, Copenhagen, Tel Aviv, Edinburgh,

Oslo and Shannon.

Airlines

LOT Polish Airlines C-6, ul. Piotrkowska 122, tel. 42

630 15 40, www.lot.com.

Orbis Travel C-4, ul. Piotrkowska 68, tel. 42 632 59

60, www.orbistravel.pl.

Scan Holiday C-6, Al. Kościuszki 74/78, tel. 42 636

22 10, www.scanholiday.com.pl.

Arriving by bus

The bus station is in the centre of the city, less than 10

minutes on foot from the major hotels and sights. The sta-

tion is full of shops, cafés and kiosks, providing sustenance,

mobile phone SIM and top-up cards and little else. The toilets

(2zł) are down the stairs to the right of the ticket windows

in the main hall.

Arriving by train

Łódź is ringed by numerous train stations, with the principal

suburban stations being Łódź Kaliska and Łódź Widzew.

Those wanting to arrive or depart from the city centre will

be making use of Łódź Fabryczna, slap bang in the centre.

It looks rough and ropey, though plans have been unveiled

to create a sparkling modern masterpiece in its place. In

the meantime you'll find yourself deposited on a pot-holed

platform, with the main building housing ATMs, toilets, phone

booths and newsagents selling public transport tickets and

top-up cards for mobile phones. Getting to town is a cinch.

Either jump into one of the cabs that stands outside, or

simply head to the underpass that faces the main entrance.

Continue heading westwards and you'll find yourself on

Piotrkowska within minutes. Łódź Kaliska is far nicer, and

once more it features all the essentials - ATMs, toilets and

kiosking to deal with transport and mobile phone needs.

Taxis wait outside, and typically you'll find yourself charged

around 20-25zł for the centre.

Getting to town

Ambitious travellers with little luggage should cross the

street in the direction of the Centrum hotel and keep walking

until they hit Piotrkowska. Taxis are cheap, and can be found

waiting just outside the main building. Trams heading north

and south stop close to the Orthodox Church, just northwest

of the station.

Łódź Central Bus Station (Dworzec PKS Cen-

tralny) E-4, Pl. Sałacińskiego 1 (Łódź-Fabryczna), tel.

42 631 97 06, www.pks.lodz.pl. Q Open 05:00 - 20:00.

By car

The road quality issue is being addressed with EU directives

and funding but the size of the country's road network as well

as its condition means that it'll be years till improvements

will take effect. In fact the issue of the condition of the road

and rail networks are being cited by many experts as being a

serious handicap to the development of the Polish economy.

For someone taking to the road today the following warnings

should be taken into account. Firstly when driving outside of

built-up areas you will typically find yourself sharing a single

lane road with anything from a sports car convertible to an

old bloke in charge of a horse and cart. Throw in the huge

fleet of lorries that traverse Poland and you will commonly

find yourself in a situation where traffic is blocked behind said

lorries/horse/tractor. This results in frustrated/impatient

drivers overtaking each other at high speed and then braking

sharply to avoid oncoming traffic. Be warned and keep a safe

distance between you and the vehicle in front.

Secondly beware of the hard shoulders of these roads, the

vast majority of which are unlit at night. These are often used

as pavements by local people who add to the Russian roulette

by venturing out at night wearing their darkest clothing. Add

in the odd drunk on a bike and these hard shoulders become

a very real problem when facing a set of headlights bearing

down on your vehicle.

For those brave enough to venture out the following informa-

tion should be noted. Poland has strong drink-driving laws:

0.2‰ is the maximum blood/alcohol limit, so forget about

Public transport

Łódź can boast a well-developed network of bus and

tram routes that traverse the city. The comprehensive

website at www.mpk.lodz.pl features full English transla-

tion of content, including timetables for all routes, general

information and ticket prices. A brief exploration of the

website will reveal that venomous animals are banned

from public transport, as are people who are ‘slovenly,

scruffy or give off an offensive smell'. Reassuring, but in

reality completely untrue. Tickets (bilety) can be purchased

from most streetside kiosks, and must be validated on

boarding the tram or bus by punching them into the metal

boxes (kasowniks) found next to the doors. Failure to do

so will result in a 100zł fine if you're caught by one of the

undercover ticket inspectors.

Train smarts

If you find yourself faced with long queues in the train station

then you'll be pleased to hear you can hop on the desired train

and buy a ticket direct from the conductor. You'll pay a small

surcharge for this (approx 15zł), and credit cards are now

(usually) accepted. Travellers are expected to greet others in

their compartment with a curt ‘dzien dobry', and it is taken as

given that a male passengers will help females or the elderly

with any heavy baggage.

Arrivals Przyjazdy

Departures Odjazdy

Platform Peron

Łódź-Fabryczna railway station (Dworzec PKP

Łódź-Fabryczna) E-4, Pl. Sałacińskiego 1, tel. 42

194 36, www.pkp.pl. Q Ticket office Open 03:00-23:00.

Łódź-Kaliska railway station (Dworzec PKP Łódź-

Kaliska) G-4, Al. Unii Lubelskiej 3/5, tel. 42 194 36,

www.pkp.pl. Q Open 24hrs.

Łódź-Widzew railway station (Dworzec PKP Łódź-

Widzew) J-4, ul. Służbowa 8, tel. 42 194 36, www.pkp.

pl. Q Open 24hrs.

Ticket prices are as follows:

1.70zł (0.85zł) 10 minutes

2.40zł (1.20zł) 30 minutes

3.60zł (1.80zł) 60 minutes

4.80zł (2.40zł) 120 minutes

In addition one day passes can also be purchased

(9.60/4.80zł) as well as passes valid for three days (20/10zł),

one week (30/15zł), two weeks (58/29zł) and one month

(100/50zł). Both trams and buses usually operate from

05:00 until 23:00 after which night buses (marked with an

N) serve the city.

Łódź In Your Pocket

lodz.inyourpocket.com

September - December 2009

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