Instructions(1).pdf

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The model is rather hard one, so if You never tried a paper model before, I recommend you visit

www.paperstarships.tengun.net , and choose something else for starters. Also, if you don’t succeed, don’t give up,

you can always print out the needed part again (I did it two times).

Anyway, good luck, and have fun, because that is the most important, even more important than the final effect.

Materials needed:

• Bristol (thick paper)

• millimeter thick cardboard

• 2 millimeters thick cardboard

• A sharp knife or scalpel (for cutting edges)

• Some good glue –personally I prefer polyurethane glue, also you can use wood adhesive it will hold paper very

good too, maybe even better than paper glue. I wouldn’t recommend any glue sticks, so use them at your own

risk, and don’t cry when the model falls apart :P

• Ruler

• Scissors

• Sand-paper

Parts marked with * should be sticked on 1 mm (millimeter) thick cardboard.

Parts marked with ** should be sticked on 2mm thick cardboard.

When there two symmetrical parts at both sides of the model, left one (when looking at the rear side of model) is

marked with l , while the right one is marked with r .

Some Basics:

When you need to fold the part so it is convex ( -------- ), make a shallow cut with the knife along the line, so that

paper looks like that:

Direction of folding

Then it will easily fold. You have too look out not to cut the part apart however. After a short training You’ll

figure out the best depth of the cut.

When you need to fold the part so that it is concave ( ) , you can either cut it at the other side, which is

harder to do, because you don’t see lines, or make a dent along the line, for example with a dry pen, so that the

paper looks like that:

Direction of folding

When You want to achieve cylindrical shape, draw the part across the edge of a table, as shown on the picture:

Star-like and comb-like parts, as shown bellow form spherical shapes:

You need to bend their “arms” so they are convex, preferably with method described above, and then glue their

edges together. I recommend you cut off all their flaps before doing so.

Sometimes it is best to remove flaps and make Your own from a separate piece of paper. Why?

The part, especially a flat one or a side of cylinder glued with “stock” flap looks like this:

While , if You make Your own flap You can achieve a flat even surface like this:

This way You’ll have a way better effect.

Also one of the first rules in this business is: before You apply glue, make sure You won’t regret it – always check

if the part fits correctly, if the skeleton bellow it doesn’t need some sandpaper work, etc.

One more thing: be creative – model’s author isn’t always right, he makes mistakes, so if You think that some

things could be done other way, maybe easier, they probably can, so don’t be afraid to modify the model. For

example, I’ve been making paper models for about eight years now, and I rarely follow instructions in details. I

developed my own habits and ways of doing things, and always modify the original concept, so it’s easier to make

for me, maybe looks better, or I just do it for fun.

Model dimensions (in millimeters):

165

260

370

Difficulty rating (Deimos’ scale): 5/10

Important! Before you print your model, note that pages 1 to 10 should be printed on normal thin paper,

and then some parts from them should be sticked on thick cardboard.

Okay, let’s begin with cutting out parts number S1 , S2 , S3 , S4L and S4U , in other words, all pages 1, 2 and 3. All

of these parts, except number S3 should be sticked on 1mm cardboard. Part S3 should be reinforced with 2mm

cardboard (or two layers of 1mm cardboard)

Tip: before pasting actual parts on cardboard, try to stick a big piece of paper on it. It may turn out that

cardboard will bend. If so, you should change your glue.

After the glue dries, cut out all parts, and assemble them as shown on pictures:

S4U

S4L

Note that You glue only one part S2 (of two) to skeleton at this point.

Now cut out all parts marked as S5 from pages 6 to 10. They are marked with *, so reinforce them with 1 mm

cardboard (it can be thinner in this case). The tricky part is to cut them out without damaging them. Scissors won’t

do the trick here. I recommend You use a scalpel, or a sharp knife to cut the outer edges, and maybe the inner edge

too (You have to experiment here)

Tip: If you find it hard to cut out a hole in cardboard-reinforced part, try making perforating the inner edge with a

needle (the holes have to be very close to each other). Now it’s just a matter of a slight push. Edges may require

additional working with sandpaper however.

Roll part 5a around S5 . S5 should be at both front and rear sides of element. Now glue colored parts 5b to both

sides of it.

When You do this, it ‘s time to find S6 and S 6a . S6 is reinforced with cardboard, and will be cylinder’s top and

bottom lids. S6a is on bristol and should be rolled around S6a . Make sure that cylinder fits tightly into holes in

parts S1 and S5 . These part will hold wings in position, so if they are too lose, wings will keep opening even if

You don’t want them to.

Assembly it all as shown bellow:

Now, that You made hull skeleton, it’s time to wrap it with part 1 (p. 11). White boxes in this part should be cut

out – this is where the wing joints go. Adjust the entire part to them. Note the part should reach the end of

horizontal surface on parts S1 and S2 . If it doesn’t, use the sandpaper.

When that is done, put the top in place (part 2 , page 12). Keep in mind that the darker boxes on its sides mark

front. Make sure that part 2 is thoroughly glued to S4U – it has to hold the upper wing in vertical position.

One more thing: on pictures parts are printed on both sides to make them easier to identify.

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