Weisn Dirndl instructions.pdf

PATTERN

Blouse A

1 Front piece 1x

2 Back piece 1x

3 Sleeves 2x

DRESS B

4 Center front piece 2x

5 Side front piece 2x

6 Center back piece 2x

7 Side back piece 2x

8 Front facing 2x

9 back facing 2x

10 Right front skirt panel 1x

11 Left front skirt panel 1x

12 Back skirt panel 1x

CUTTING OUT

FOLD (– – – –) means: Cut on the fold, the fold being

the center of the pattern piece, but never a cut edge or

seam. The piece should be cut double, with the fold line

forming the center line. Pattern pieces that are outlined

with a broken line in the cutting diagrams are to be

placed face down on the fabric. The cutting diagrams

on the pattern sheet show how the pattern pieces

should be placed on the fabric.

The cutting diagrams show the placement of the

pattern on the fabric.

B: fabric I, fabric II

Cut pieces 4 to 9 from fabric I, pieces 10, 11 and 12

from fabric II. See cutting diagrams.

Cut the apron from fabric III (always 3 sizes combined):

[sizes 6/8/10 (EU 38/40/42) – sizes 12/14/16 (EU

44/46/48) – sizes 18/20/22 (EU 50/52/54)]

FABRIC : Linen, cotton fabric

Paper cut for ANSI A (German DIN A4) prints:

The patterns are printed out on 56 sheets with a thin

frame. Wait until all sheets are printed out. Arrange the

sheets so that they fit together (see additional page with

the overview of the prints). Fold the single sheets on

the upper and right edge along the thin frame lines.

Begin with the left lower sheet and then tape the frame

lines together precisely. Select your size according to

the Burda-dimension table: dresses, blouses, jackets

and coats according to the bust size, trousers and skirts

according to the hip width. Change the pattern to fit

your measurements if they deviate from the Burda-size

chart. Cut out the pattern according to your size.

Apron piece a: 39” (97 cm) long and 38” – 40” – 44”

(94 - 101 - 110 cm) wide

Apron waist band b: 4” (10 cm) wide and 16” – 18” –

22” (39 - 45 - 54 cm) long

Apron tie strips c (cut twice): 4” ( 10 cm) wide und

50” – 51” – 53” (125 - 128 - 133 cm) long. See cutting

diagrams.

For a single layer of fabric, the pattern pieces are

pinned to the right side. For double layers of fabric, the

right sides are facing and the pattern pieces are pinned

to the wrong side. The pattern pieces that are shown

extending over the fold of the fabric in the cutting

diagram should be cut last from a single layer of fabric.

LENGTHENING OR SHORTENING THE PATTERN

PIECES

Our pattern is calculated for a height of 5’ 6” (168 cm).

If you are taller or shorter, you can adjust the pattern

pieces along the lines marked "lengthen or shorten

here". This way the proper fit is maintained. Always

adjust all pattern pieces along the same line to the

same degree

SEAM AND HEMLINE ALLOWANCES are included on

an average:

1 ½” (4 cm) for the hemline, 5/8” (1.5 cm) for all edges

and stitches. Using BURDA copying paper, transfer the

lines and

signs of the pattern onto the left fabric side. Instructions

can be found in the packaging.

How to lengthen and shorten pattern pieces:

Cut the pattern pieces along the marked lines

To lengthen , slide the two halves of the pattern piece

as far apart as necessary.

To shorten , overlap the two halves of the pattern piece

as far as necessary. Blend the side edges.

SEWING

While sewing, the right sides of the fabric are

facing. Transfer all lines of the pattern onto the right

side of the fabric using basting stitches.

INTERFACING

Cut the interfacing according to the diagram and press onto

the wrong fabric side.

B DRESS

TOP / PRINCESS SEAMS

1 Position the side front pieces on the center front pieces,

right sides facing. Pin the princess seams (seam 5) and

stitch.

Stitch the back princess seams the same way (seam 6).

Neaten allowances and press apart.

Center back seam: Position the back pieces together,

right sides facing. Pin the center seam and stitch. Secure

seam ends. Neaten allowances and press apart. Position

the back facings together, right sides facing. Stitch the

center back seam. Press the allowances apart.

Shoulder seams: Position the front pieces on the back

pieces, right sides facing; stitch the shoulder seams (seam

7). Neaten allowances and press apart.

2 Position the front facings on the back facings, right sides

facing. Stitch the shoulder seams (seam 9). Press the

allowances apart. Neaten the bottom edge of the facing.

PIPING STRIP

3 Position the piping strip onto the neckline and the

armholes so that it is positioned on the allowances. Turn

the strip ends along the fold line (front pieces) according to

the drawing, and pin. Stitch the piping strip narrowly using

a one-sided edge stitching foot. Trim the allowances along

the armholes, snip in; fold inside and pin. The piping lays

on the right side. Press.

FRONT EDGES / FACING

4 Neaten the allowances of the front pieces, fold to the

outside and pin along the neckline. Pin the neckline facing

onto the neckline, right sides facing. The shoulder seams

meet. Stitch the facing, enclosing the piping. Trim

allowances, snip in at the curves. Cut the corners at the

angles. Turn the facings towards the inside. Pin the

neckline and the font edges, then press.

SIDE SEAMS

5 Flip the facing to stitch the side seams. Position the front

piece on the back piece, right sides facing. Stitch the side

seams (seam 8) along the facings (seam 10) as well. Press

the allowances apart. Fold the facings towards the inside.

Along the armholes, stitch the facings, folded in, onto the

piping strips. Stitch the bottom facing edge onto the

allowances of the side seams and the center back seam

(5a).

SKIRT / PLEATS

6 From the right side of the fabric, position the pleats of the

front skirt panels according to the arrow. Topstitch along

the allowance of the top skirt edge.

CENTER FRONT SEAM / SLIT

7 Position the front skirt panels together, right sides facing.

Baste the center seam (seam 12) and stitch from the slit

sign downwards to the bottom edge of the skirt. Secure

seam ends. Keep the slit basted. Neaten allowances and

press apart. Open the basting stitches along the slit. At the

left front skirt panel, stitch the allowance along the slit (7a).

SIDE SEAMS

Position the front skirt panel on the back skirt panel, right

sides facing. Pin the side seams (seam 11) and stitch.

Neaten allowances and press apart.

TOP SKIRT EDGE / WIDTH

8 The gathered width of the skirt along the top skirt edge

has to be distributed equally. As shown in the drawing,

stitch 6 times, at intervals of ½” (1 cm), along the edge

using basting stitches. Then stitch a seventh times along

the allowance. Tighten the bobbin threads to the width of

the back top piece. Knot the thread ends and sew them

into the fabric. Finally distribute the width equally.

STITCH THE TOP PIECE

Position the facings onto the front pieces.

9 Position the top piece on the top skirt edge, right sides

facing. The side seams meet the side edges of the front

skirt panels. At the right front piece, the fold line of the

facing meets the fold line of the right front skirt panel (seam

13).

At the left front piece, the facing along the slit edge

overlaps. Fold this facing around the slit edge to the inside

and pin. Pin the waist seam line and stitch (9a). Neaten

allowances. Flip the top piece and press the allowances

inside the top piece. Fold and pin the facings along the fold

line towards the inside. Fold and pin along the FOLD LINE

of the right skirt panel. Press.

Work BUTTON HOLES into the right front piece. Apply

BUTTONS on the center front of the left top side.

HEMLINE

10 Neaten the hemline, fold it inside and press. Topstitch

the bottom edge of the skirt ½” (1 cm) wide, at the same

time stitching the hemline.

BLOUSE

SHOULDER SEAMS

Position the front piece on the back piece, right sides

facing. Stitch the shoulder seams (seam 1) and ease the

shoulder edges on the back by slightly pulling or pushing

one edge onto the other along the seam. Neaten

allowances and press apart.

NECKLINE

Cut the seam allowance along the neckline

11 The eased width of the neckline has to be distributed

equally. To achieve that, double stitch using basting

stitches between the * markings. Tighten bobbin threads:

for sizes 6-10 (EU 38-42) to 2 ½” (6,5 cm) , for sizes 12-16

(EU 44-48) to 2 ¾” (7 cm) , for sizes 18-22 (EU 50-54) to

3” (7,5 cm) . Knot thread ends. Distribute the width equally.

12 Pin the bias strips onto the neckline, right sides facing.

At the shoulder seams, turn the ends of the straps. Stitch

the strips ¼” (0.7 cm) wide. Then turn the strips over the

edge of the neckline towards the inside. Pin along the

seam line. Allow the strips to overlap approximately 1 mm.

Fold a pleat at the center back. Stitch onto the right fabric

side of the blouse along the seam line, enclosing the inner

half of the strip (12a).

SIDE SEAMS

Position the front piece on the back piece, right sides

facing. Stitch side seams (seam 2), from the top of the side

to the allowance at the bottom. Secure seam ends. Neaten

allowances and press apart.

BOTTOM BLOUSE EDGES / ELASTIC BAND

13 Neaten the allowance of the bottom edge of the blouse,

fold and press. Stitch a tube for the elastic band at the

bottom edge of the blouse, ½” (1.2 cm) wide. Pull the

elastic band, using a safety pin, through the opening of the

side seam and then through the whole tube. Try the blouse

on to adjust the length of the elastic band. Sew the ends of

the band together.

LACE TRIM

14 Pin the lace edging onto the sleeve, as marked, and

topstitch narrowly. From the wrong fabric side of the

sleeve, cut carefully along the center line of the trim. Then

press the allowances over the stitch lines towards the top

and towards the bottom respectively (14a). Topstitch the

edges of the lace trim, using a narrowly adjusted zigzag

stitch, Thereby catching the allowances. Other overlapping

allowances along the zigzag stitches have to be cut (14b).

Fold the sleeves lengthwise, right sides facing.

Stitch the sleeve seams (seam 3). Neaten allowances and

press apart. Stitch the sleeve hem according to the text

and drawing 10.

APPLY SLEEVES

The eased width of the sleeve curve has to be distributed

equally. To do so, stitch the sleeve curve according to the

text and drawing 11. Then tighten the bobbin threads of the

stitch lines slightly.

15 Position the sleeves onto the armhole, right sides

facing, and pin. When applying the sleeves four points are

important for the right “fit”: The cross lines of sleeves and

front piece have to meet. The sleeve and side seams have

to meet. The cross line of the sleeve curve has to meet the

shoulder seam. The eased width has to be distributed

equally.

When positioning the sleeve on the armhole, pin and stitch

on the side of the sleeve. Trim allowances, neaten and

press the front and back piece inwards.

APRON

16 Fold 1 ½” (4 cm) of the bottom edge inside and press.

Fold the edge again ½’ (1 cm) and pin. Stitch the hemline

narrowly. Fold the side edges inwards, ¾” (1.5 cm) wide;

and press. Fold again, pin and topstitch narrowly. To

gather the apron edge see step 8. The gathered width of

the top apron edge has to be distributed equally. To do so

tighten the bobbin threads of the stitch lines to the width of

the waistband. Knot thread ends. Distribute width equally.

17 Pin the waistband onto the top apron edge, right sides

facing. Let the allowance overlap at the sides. Stitch. Press

the allowances into the waistband. Fold and press the

allowances of the top of the waistband towards the inside.

18 Along the tie strips, fold the long and short edges ½’

(1.5 cm) wide inside and press; fold again and pin. Fold

the end of the strip to an angle, then pin. Topstitch the

allowance. Create a pleat at each of the open edges of the

strip ends and pin. Complete width of the strip is 1 ½” (3.5

cm).

19 Pin the strips at the side edges of the waistband. Fold

the waistband in half towards the outside. Stitch the narrow

edges together, enclosing the strips. Trim allowances. Cut

the corners at angles (19a). Turn the waistband. Pin the

inner edge onto the seam line. Topstitch the waistband

edges narrowly, at the same time stitching the inner half.

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