9306 Dress Danielle instructions.pdf

Sewing Instructions for Dress

Sizes 34,36,38, 40,42,44

Fabric needed

Embroidered Doupion Silk, 135 cm wide;

Size 38: 0.9 meters,

Sizes 40,42,44: 1.9 meters

Pleated Organza Inset with velvet band, 4 cm wide;

Sizes 34,36: 0.8 meters,

Sizes 38, 40: 0.9 meters,

Sizes 42,44: 1.00 meters

Satin, 140 cm wide,

Sizes 34,36, 38: 1.30 meters

Sizes 40,42,44: 1.40 meters

Chiffon, 140 cm wide; 0.10 meters for all sizes

0.55 meters Vlieseline G 785, 90 cm wide

1 seam zip, 60 cm long, and special sewing foot

Elastic band, 7mm wide, 0.70 meters

Sewing thread

Preparing Pattern Pieces

All instructions for cutting can be found in the cutting chart to the left. Cut pattern pieces along the lines

according to the size you wish to sew.

Cutting Out

The cutting instructions below show how to place the pattern pieces on the fabric. When placing the pieces

on the fabric, make sure that the grain lines depicted on the pattern pieces run parallel to the grain of the

fabric.

Fabric

1 Front Piece in Selvage

2 Front Placket in Selvage

3 Front Skirt Piece in Selvage

4 Back Piece

5 Back Placket

6 Back Skirt Piece

7 Sleeves

8 Front Trimming in Selvage

9 Back Trimming

Interfacing

All pieces that are depicted as grey areas on the copy paper should be cut as interfacing with the same grain

direction as the fabric pieces. Iron the interfacing onto the wrong side of the fabric pieces for which they

are needed.

Transferring Pattern Markings

Sizes 34,36: 1.6 meters,

Place the pieces with interfacing onto each other, right sides facing. Pin pattern pieces again.

With a tracing wheel and paper,transfer pattern markings (sewing and seam lines) as well as all the marked

lines on the pattern pieces ( expect for the grain markings) onto the wrong side of the fabric ( detailed

instructions can be found on the pattern). Transfer the pleating lines for the sleeves onto the right side of

the fabric, stitching along the lines with wide stitches by hand.

Sewing

Right Side

Left Side

Interfacing

When pinning and stitching the seams, the right sides of the fabric are facing. Secure seam beginning and

end with reverse stitches.

1.) Darts

Fold the front piece, the back pieces and the back skirt pieces so that the dart lines meet, right sides facing.

Pin dart lines onto another and stitch, starting at the lower front and back piece edges (i.e. the upper skirt

edge) and ending at the tip. Tie thread ends. (1) Iron darts to the front middle and back middle.

(1)

2.) Pleats

Fold the front skirt pieces at the middle pleating line, right sides facing. Pin pleating lines from above,

stopping at the pleating mark. Stitch. (2) Fold skirt piece apart and lay pleats so that the pleat middle meets

with the seam. Pin the pleats to the upper skirt piece edge. (3)

(2) (3)

3.) Attaching the Plackets

Pin the front placket right sides facing onto the front pieces (seam number 1), place the back plackets onto

the back pieces (seam number 3). Stitch. (4) Pin the lower placket edges right sides facing onto the

corresponding upper skirt pieces edges. Stitch. (5) Iron seam allowances into the plackets and de-baste.

(4)

(5)

4.) Shoulder and Side Seams

Place back pieces onto front pieces, right sides facing, pin shoulder and side seams. Stitch. (6) Iron seam

allowances apart and de-baste.

(6)

5.) Seam Zip and Back Middle Seam

De-baste the seam allowances of the dress edges in the back. Mark slit end with small cuts.

Place opened zip onto the right side of the fabric of the back slit, facing up. Space between the zip band

edge and the seam allowances edge should be 5 mm. Pin the upper end of the zip to the edge of the seam

allowance. The bottom end of the zip overlaps at the marked end of the slit. Place sewing foot onto the zip

so that the spiral in the notch lies to the right of the needle (8) Stitch zip coming from above until you reach

the marked end of the slit. Close zip. Place the other band of the zip onto the front slit edge, facing up. Pin

at the top. (9) Open zip. Place the sewing foot onto the upper end of the zip so that the spiral in the notch

lies to the left of the needle. (10) Coming from above, stitch zip until you reach the marked end of the slit,

then close zip. Place skirt pieces below the zip onto each other, right sides facing, pin the left side seam

coming from below until you reach the marked end of the slit, placing the lower end of the zip loosely

towards the seam allowance. Stitch seam.

Trim seam allowance.

(7)

(8)

(9)

(10)

6.) Adding the Trimming to the Neckline

Place the back trimmings right sides facing onto the front trimming, pin shoulder and side seams. Stitch . (7)

Fold apart and iron seam allowances. De-baste the lower edge of the trimming. Pin trimming onto the neck

line, right sides facing. Seams and seam lines meet. Fold the back edges of the trimming to the outside,

about 5mm from the slit edges, pin to the neck line’s edge. Stitch along the neck line’s edge. Trim seam

allowances, cut at the rounded edges (8) Turn trimming and slit allowances to the inside. Iron edge. Fold

the trimming and sew onto the zip bands. Pin arm base edges of the dress and the trimming onto each other.

(9)

(7)

(8)

(9)

7.) Sleeves

Place the pleats at the arm base coming from the right side of the sleeve, pin. (10) Fold sleeves lengthwise,

right sides facing. Pin sleeve seams. Stitch, leaving a 1.5 cm stretch of the seam open below the seam line,

to facilitate adding the elastic band later. (11) Fold apart and iron seam allowances and de-baste. Fold over

to the inside and iron the seam allowance of the bottom sleeve edge, stitch neatly. Cut the elastic band into

two equal parts. Draw the elastic band into the lower sleeve edge, using a safety pin. Sow the ends of the

elastic band onto each other ( 12). Finished width: Sizes 34,36: about 29 cm, Sizes 38, 40: about 30 cm,

Sizes 42,44: about 33 cm.

(10)

(11)

(12)

8.) Adding in sleeves

Pin sleeves right sides facing, at first only pin them at the lower part of the arm line; sleeve and side seams

as well as the horizontal lines 10 of sleeves and arm line meet. Then pin the shoulder mark (horizontal line)

of the arm base to the shoulder seams and pin the remaining arm bases. Fold in the sleeve coming from the

sleeve side (see drawings 25 and 26). Try on the dress and control the position of the sleeves. Stitch the

sleeves coming from the sleeve side, starting above the side seams. Stitch close to the basting stitches to

make sure that the basting thread can be torn apart easily. Trim seam allowances and place them inside the

sleeves.

9.) Seam

De-baste seam allowances, fold inside, iron and sew loosely by hand.

10.) Organza Inset

Pin organza inset onto the placket, fold in at the ends of the zip slit. Stitch inset neatly along the edges of

the velvet band

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