Petzl - Mountaineering.pdf
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Technical information
Checking your equipment
Helmet
An essential element for head protection, the
helmet reminds us of its value in the case of
falling rock or a head-irst fall. To do its job
properly, it must be in good condition and it
well on the head.
Before each use, verify:
- the condition of the shell (no signs of impact,
cracks or deformities on the inside or outside)
- the attachment system of the headband
(operate the headband adjustment and the chin
strap buckle)
- Do not sit on your helmet, as this may damage it
WARNING, a major impact to the helmet can
signiicantly reduce its protective properties
(shock absorption, strength) without leaving
visible signs of damage. Retire your helmet after
a major impact.
After each outing, clean and dry all equipment
carefully according to the instructions in the
technical notices.
…
www.petzl.com/ppe
Information is non-exhaustive; consult the details of the inspection procedure to be carried out for each item of PPE (Personal Protective Equipment)
on its technical notice or at
www.petzl.com/ppe
Technical information
Basics
1
Prepare your itinerary carefully
Get accurate information about the weather
and the condition of your planned route; the
dificulties can vary greatly according to the
conditions. Decide how you will ascend and
descend. Is your party ready for an itinerary
at this level of dificulty? Are you suficiently
acclimatized to the altitude?
2
Bring the appropriate equipment
Weight is the number one enemy of
mountaineers. Anticipate the necessary gear for
the route and the conditions. Bring equipment
for retreat and/or rescue. For example, take a
crevasse rescue kit for glacier travel. Always
have a map, compass, altimeter and headlamp.
3
Adapt your protection to your
environment
It is essential to be quick when mountaineering.
When the whole team is simul-climbing
with a taut rope, exploit quick and reliable
opportunities for protection offered by the
terrain (a piece of gear in a crack or a sling
around a rock horn). On dificult sections, take
the time to protect yourself and your partner
well. Anticipate belay stations based on up-
coming challenges on your route.
4
Know when to turn back
During your journey, keep four important factors
in mind: the human element, the conditions,
the terrain and the timing. At a turning point,
analyzing these four factors will help you decide
whether to continue or not. For example:
In what kind of physical condition is the team?
Are the conditions and weather good? Is th
e
terrain acceptable? Do you still have enough
time?
5
Keep focused and organized
Stay focused over easy sections and during the
descent. At the summit, you’re only half-way
done! Keep your pack organized so that you
don’t lose anything and so that you are always
eficient during transitions (adding or removing
clothing layers, eating, drinking, putting on
or taking off crampons, tying in, inding the
guidebook, etc.).
Constantly analyze the potential risk for human
error (avalanches, falls, seracs, crevasses...);
spend the least amount of time in high-risk
zones. Avoid regrouping in these zones.
67
Technical information
Tips
Tying in and chest coil.
A. Tying in and progressing on a crevassed glacier
Distances between climbers.
3
20 m
1
2
4
5
Tying off with a cow’s tail to avoid loading the chest coil.
Climbing with a party of three: tying in the middle climber.
20 - 30 m
8 - 15 m
8 - 15 m
Warning: do not hold loops in your hands.
8 - 15 m
8 - 15 m
“Summit day without a summit” at Manaslu, around 7450 m.
B. Falling into a crevasse
Stopping a fall:
- ventral tie-in, taut rope = OK
1
2
3
- when holding loops = danger
1
2
3
- tied in at chest-level = danger
1
2
3
© François Damilano
68
69
Transferring the load to an anchor.
C. Hauling
Simple pulley system
1
The simple pulley system is very
eficient. It may be used when the
victim can help haul himself out.
It is a good solution in case the
rope is jammed on the edge of the
crevasse. A progress capture device
must be installed on the hauling
rope. This system requires a lot of
rope, but not much equipment.
2
Various anchor solutions.
Snow.
Double mariner system
The double mariner system is used if the victim is unconscious
or when you don’t have enough rope for a simple pulley or Z-drag
system.
Ice.
mini 50 cm
When the running carabiner approaches the anchor, slide
the system back down the rope to re-set the hauling system.
Hard snow.
h
30cm
d
1,50m
Press on the TIBLOC with the thumb so that it immediately
engages on the rope when hauling.
h
d
maximum 90°
Paulo Grobel and Philippe Mahou
discuss strategy at Camp III, 6100 m, at Manaslu.
© François Damilano
70
71
>
>
D. Moving along an easy snow slope
The leader adjusts the length of the rope to the dificulty of the
terrain and always positions himself uphill.
The distance between the leader and second is very short, and the
rope is kept taut.
E. Progression on an easy arête
Progressing with a taut rope, the leader places protection and uses natural
protection offered by the terrain (boulders, rock features, horns...).
Effects of sling length on the load.
Carrying tips
H. Belay station
Carrying webbing slings on the
torso.
Extendable quick draw
Equalizing nuts and pitons for a belay anchor...
On the harder sections, the leader asks the second to belay him.
Once the section is completed, the leader belays the second.
Downwards
back-up
Do not put a STRING on a sling
In the mountains, make sure to hammer in belay station pitons again.
The effects of freezing and thawing can cause the pitons to come out
of the cracks.
F. Progression on vertical
terrain
G. Protection
Make a sliding knot on the sling, keeping the sling from coming off the feature.
Choose the length of the sling loop according to the feature.
So close and yet so far: Paul Vullin and Pierrol Dupuy with the summit of Manaslu visible in the background.
© François Damilano
72
73
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