Compact Deck.pdf

COMPACT DECK

S OUTHERN F OREST P RODUCTS A SSOCIATION

S OUTHEASTERN L UMBER M ANUFACTURERS A SSOCIATION

P. O . B OX 641700 • K ENNER , LA 70064-1700

(504) 443-4464 • F AX (504) 443-6612

www.southernpine.com

Compact Deck

This plan contains an attractive deck design that two handy persons with intermediate building skills can construct in a weekend.

Build it with versatile pressure-treated Southern Pine lumber and your new deck will provide many years of outdoor living enjoy-

ment. Designed for a level site, this deck includes comfortable seating. When built with pressure-treated Southern Pine lumber,

the deck frame is suitable for “ground contact” applications. All decking, seating, and rail materials can be quality marked for

“above ground” use.

Also, local soil conditions may warrant the installation of 4x4 corner posts, set in concrete beneath the deck frame, to mini-

mize the effects of ground subsidence over time. An easier alternative is to place concrete block footers at the deck frame’s four

corners. Ask a local builder if either support device is necessary.

MATERIALS LIST

To build this deck, you will need the following quantities of pressure-treated Southern Pine lumber:

NUMBER

MATERIAL

LENGTH

TO MAKE

OF PIECES

2x12

12’

Deck Framing (F1-F4)

2x12

10’

Deck Framing (J1-J5)

2x10

8’

12 Seat Supports (R)

2x6

12’

Deck Framing (F4,F5);

Blocking

2x4

10’

Seat Frames, Rail

Supports, Ledgers

2x2

17”

Railing Spindles

372 lin.ft. 5/4x6 R.E.D.

D1 16 pcs. 8’ D2 20 pcs. 10’ (Deck, Seats & Back Rail)

D3 4 pcs. 11’ (Steps)

OTHER MATERIALS NEEDED

• Hot-dip galvanized or stainless steel fasteners

(See Fastener Advisory)

n 8d (approx. 8 lbs.) to fasten decking, steps, seat, and rail

n 12d (approx. 10 lbs.) to assemble deck framing

n 11 hot-dip galvanized bolts, 5”x 3 ⁄ 16 ” dia.,

with 22 washers

• Construction adhesive for treated wood

• Water-repellent sealer

ADVISORY:

Fastener & Connector Performance for Treated Wood

Metal products in contact with pressure-treated wood must be corrosion resist-

ant. Examples include flashing, termite shields, fasteners (e.g. nails, screws,

and bolts), and all connecting hardware (e.g. joist hangers, straps, hinges,

post anchors, and truss plates).

The International Residential Code, Section R319.3 states, “Fasteners for pres-

sure-preservative treated wood shall be of hot-dipped galvanized steel, stain-

less steel, silicon bronze or copper. Exception: One-half inch (12.7mm)

diameter or greater steel bolts.”

Traditionally, the treated wood industry has recommended hot-dip galvanized

or stainless steel fasteners and connectors for wood products treated with

Chromated Copper Arsenate (CCA). Hot-dip galvanized or stainless steel fas-

teners and connectors continue to be recommended for use with alternative

wood preservatives (e.g. Alkaline Copper Quat – ACQ – and Copper Azole),

but additional clarification is needed to ensure adequate corrosion protection.

Type 304 or 316 stainless steel is recommended for maximum corrosion resist-

ance in more severe exterior applications, such as swimming pools and salt-

water exposure. Furthermore, stainless steel fasteners are generally required

below grade for permanent wood foundations.

Hot-dip galvanized fasteners and connectors are generally acceptable for

above grade applications. Hot-dip galvanized fasteners should meet ASTM

A153 (with 2 ounces of zinc coating per square foot minimum for marine use)

and hot-dip galvanized connectors should meet ASTM A653 , Class G185

sheet with 1.85 ounces of zinc coating per square foot minimum. Fasteners

and connectors used together should be of the same type (e.g. hot-dip nails

with hot-dip joist hangers).

Do not use standard carbon-steel or aluminum products in direct contact with

pressure-treated wood. Spacer materials or other physical barriers are recom-

mended to prevent direct contact. In addition, electroplated galvanized metal

products generally have a thinner layer of protection compared to hot-dip gal-

vanized and are typically not accepted by the building codes for use in exteri-

or applications.

Fasteners and connectors coated with proprietary anti-corrosion technologies

(other than stainless steel or hot-dip galvanized) are also available for use

with treated wood. Consult individual hardware manufacturers for specifics

regarding the performance of their products with treated wood.

TOOLS REQUIRED

• Hammer

• Crosscut or circular saw

• Carpenter’s level and square

• Miter saw

• Drill with 3/16” bit

• Small hand saw or sabre saw

CONSTRUCTION STEPS

1. Build the deck frame. From the 12’ 2x12 lumber, cut members Fl, F2, F3, and F4 according to the Deck Framing Plan.

Assemble with 12d nails and construction adhesive.

2. Complete step frame, cutting F5 (10’-10”) and F6 (10’-7 1 ⁄ 2 ”) from 2x6 lumber. Attach to protruding ends of F1 and F2.

Check for square. Overall dimensions of deck frame should be 10’-11 1 ⁄ 2 ” by 10’-10 1 ⁄ 2 ”.

3. Carefully measure the inside distance between F1 and F3; it should be 9’-10”. Cut five 2x12 joists, J1 through J5 to fit

between F1 and F3. Refer to section A-A for joist location. Attach to deck frame with 12d nails and construction adhesive.

As each joist is installed, recheck for square.

4. From the remaining 2x6 lumber, cut blocking to attach at midpoints of all joists and between J1 and F2 and J5 and F4.

Align top edge of blocking with top of 2x12 joist. Attach blocking adjacent to seat frame locations between F2 and J1.

Attach blocking at steps, between F4 and F5, and between F3 and F6. Add diagonal blocking at four deck corners and at

the intersection of the steps. Refer to Deck Framing Plan for all blocking locations.

5. Cut all 2x10 lumber into two-foot lengths, making a total of 12 vertical seat supports (R). From two 10’ 2x4s, cut 15” ledger

pieces (S), making a total of 12. From four more 2x4s, cut a total of 20 seat frame members (W), each 21” long. From the

remaining six 2x4s, cut 12 rail supports (T) 3’-8 1 ⁄ 4 ” long, plus four 21” seat frame members (W). Refer to Section A-A for

end-cutting details of parts T (both ends cut at 45°) and W (one end at 60°); use miter box to make uniform cuts.

6. Construct seat framing as shown in Sections A-A and C-C. Using 12d nails and adhesive, attach 2x4 rail supports (T) to F1

and F2 at locations shown in Deck Framing Plan. Attach 2x10 vertical (R) to 2x12 joists and frame and 2x6 blocking with

12d nails and adhesive. Bottom of 2x10 should be 3” above ground level; vertically, the 2x10 is positioned 5 1 ⁄ 2 ” in from the

outer edge of the deck frame. NOTE: Use a single piece of decking (5 1 ⁄ 2 ” wide) to aid positioning of 2x10 (R). Next, attach

pairs of 2x4 seat supports (W) flush with top edge of 2x10 vertical (R).

7. Where the 2x4 seat supports (W) and rail support (T) intersect, drill a centered hole to receive 5”x 3 ⁄ 16 ” bolt with washers.

NOTE: For optimum appearance, a 4 1 ⁄ 2 ”x3/16” bolt can be used if countersunk 3 ⁄ 8 ” on both sides.

8. Pre-cut and pre-position all Radius Edge Decking (R.E.D.) before nailing in place. For the deck platform’s four sides, three

pieces of decking (D2) form a “picture frame” around 16 pieces of decking (D1) cut to a length of approximately 7’-2”; take

actual measurement before cutting the 8’ lengths of decking.

At seat frame locations, some notching of D2 decking will be required. Use a small hand (keyhole) or sabre saw for notch-

ing. Use miter box saw to cut 45° decking and step joints at corners.

9. Once all R.E.D. pieces are in position, attach to deck frame with 8d nails and construction adhesive. The R.E.D. steps (D3)

are completed in similar fashion. Decking on steps should overhang 1 ⁄ 2 ” beyond 2x6 framing (F5 and F6).

10. Attach R.E.D. seating to 2x4 frames (W) using 8d nails and adhesive. Use miter saw to cut ends where the two benches

intersect. Attach R.E.D. rail to the top of 2x4 support (T) in similar fashion.

NOTE: Do not nail R.E.D. seating into end of 2x10 (R).

11. From 2x2 material, cut 22 railing spindles (V) 17” in overall length. The top should be cut to 45°; the bottom cut straight.

Equally space two spindles between each 2x4 support (T). Use 8d nails and construction adhesive to attach each spindle to

the back of R.E.D. rail and seating. Predrill all holes in spindles.

12. Apply a water-repellent sealer to all exposed wood surfaces now that construction is complete. Properly dispose of treated

lumber scraps.

These plans and the information contained herein will help you achieve the best possible results in

working with Southern Pine lumber products. The conditions under which lumber is used in con-

struction vary widely, as does the quality of workmanship. Since neither the Southern Pine Council

nor its members control the method of use or the quality of workmanship in structures built with lum-

ber, they do not warrant lumber performance or design in completed structures.

www.southernpine.com

10 1 ⁄ 2 ”

DECK

FRAMING

PLAN

TOP

2x12

10’-11 1 ⁄ 2 ”

SEAT FRAME ®

LOCATIONS (TYP.)

2x6

BLOCKING,

(TYP.)

2x12

JOISTS

2x4

LEDGER,

(TYP.)

OPTIONAL 4X4

ANCHOR POST

LOCATIONS

(TYP.)

STEP

2x6

5 1 ⁄ 2 ”

10’-1”

TOP

2x12

1 1 ⁄ 2 ”

1’-8”

(2) 2x4 SEAT FRAME BOLTS TO RAIL

SUPPORT. USE 5” HOT-DIPPED GALV.

3/16” DIAMETER BOLT W/ WASHERS.

5/4x6 R.E.D. SEAT & RAIL

(2’-0”) 2x10

2x4

5/4x6 R.E.D.

2x4 LEDGER - NAIL TO 2x10

AS NECESSARY

2x12, TYP.

2x6

1’-5 1 ⁄ 4 ”

1’-6”

2’-0”

1’-8”

SECTION A-A

OPTIONAL CONC.

BLK. FOOTER

AT 4 CORNERS

1’-5 1 ⁄ 4 ”

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