Transplanting Trees.pdf

Agricultural Extension Service

The University of Tennessee

SP 572

Transplanting

Trees

David S. Vandergriff

Area Specialist

Ornamental Horticulture

Wayne K. Clatterbuck

Associate Professor

Forestry, Wildlife & Fisheries

Successfully transplanting trees depends on deci-

sions and production practices that take place long before

the first shovel of soil is turned. Selecting the right species

and high-quality nursery stock based on planting site char-

acteristics, available care after planting, transplant size, root

ball characteristics and nursery production practices is es-

sential to successful transplanting. The rewards for atten-

tion to these details will be realized as the transplanted tree

matures and increases its importance to your property.

Trees experience tremendous stress in the trans-

planting process, primarily from adverse changes in their

ability to absorb water due to root loss. Water stress is the

primary cause of transplant failure. Root loss affects hor-

mone synthesis and distribution that regulate shoot growth.

Root loss also reduces carbohydrate storage, affecting en-

ergy available for rapid root regeneration, critical for trans-

plant survival. The ability of a tree to maintain sufficient

vigor while recovering from the adversities of transplant-

ing will determine its success or failure.

Trees have traditionally been offered for sale in

the nursery trade using three methods: bare-root, balled and

burlapped (B&B), and containers including pot-in-pot and

in-ground fabric containers.

(a)

BareÐRoot

Bare-root production systems have several advan-

tages. Bare-root trees can be produced less expensively than

trees produced in other systems due to easier digging, stor-

ing and shipping, since the soil is not kept with the roots

when the tree is dug. The root system can be inspected, and

inferior or defective roots can be removed. The range of

tree sizes is limited in bare-root transplants due to the in-

ability to move larger trees successfully. Seasonal constraints

Examples of (a) bare-root, (b) balled and burlapped, and

(b)

(c)

are greater in this production system because bare-root trees

should be dug and transplanted during the dormant season

(December-March). Careful handling of bare-root trans-

plants is necessary to avoid root desiccation. Bare-root trees

often require staking to avoid windthrow following leaf

emergence.

should be watered well prior to transporting and should be

covered to reduce water loss. Plant the trees as soon as they

arrive at the planting site. If this is not possible, water the

trees well and place them in a holding area away from wind

and the direct sun. B&B trees should be healed-in to protect

the root ball from desiccation if immediate planting is not

possible. Regular watering should be provided until the

planting is completed.

Balled and Burlapped

Balled and burlapped (B&B) is the most traditional

method of transplanting trees. These trees are available in a

wide range of sizes and are commonly found in nurseries.

Compared to bare-root transplants, B&B trees can be planted

over a longer period of time and have less stringent han-

dling and storage requirements. B&B trees can be hand dug

or dug with mechanical tree spades. B&B trees can be trans-

planted anytime the ground is not frozen. The shape of the

root ball can be easily altered to facilitate special planting

conditions such as compacted or high water table soils. The

need for staking following planting is less likely due to the

weight of the soil in the root ball.

The primary disadvantage to B&B trees is that usu-

ally 95 percent of the original root system of the tree is left in

the field. The weight of the soil on larger B&B trees results

in increased shipping costs and the possible need for spe-

cialized equipment to handle and plant the trees.

Planting

The most common mistakes in transplanting trees

are planting too deep, and over or under watering. Careful

attention to properly preparing the planting hole greatly in-

creases the odds of successfully transplanting trees. The

planting hole should be at least three times as wide as the

root ball, have sloped sides, and be no deeper than the

rootball. Plant the tree about two inches higher than the sur-

rounding ground to allow settling of the root ball and pre-

vent ponding of water at the tree base. If the tree is bare-

root, be sure to spread the roots before backfilling. If a con-

tainer tree is being planted, be sure to cut and spread out the

roots to prevent girdling.

After the tree is set in the planting hole at the proper

depth, gently remove the pinning nails or rope lacing so the

burlap can be cut and removed from the sides of the root

ball. The burlap at the bottom of the root ball should be left.

Removing the bottom burlap may injure the roots. If a wire

basket has been used, cut away as much of the basket as

possible without disturbing the root ball. This will avoid

any conflicts with the roots or with any equipment used later

Above-Ground Containers

A tree produced in an above-ground container has

the advantage of being transplanted with all of its root sys-

tem. The well-drained artificial media used in above-ground

containers is considerably lighter than field soils found in

B&B trees, making these trees less expensive to transport

and easier to handle. The use of in-ground fabric containers

may also reduce the weight of the treeball. Trees produced

in above-ground containers are available for planting any

time of year, as long as the soil is not frozen.

The major disadvantage of above-ground container

production is increased defects, such as girdling roots and

lethal high root temperatures on the south and west sides of

the container. Above-ground containers are subject to blow-

ing over in winds at the nursery, causing wounds to the tree.

Pot-in-pot production systems reduce both the lethal root

temperatures on the south and west sides of the pot and the

incidence of blowing over.

Prune codominant leaders

DO NOT prune terminal

leader or branch tips

Prune rubbing or

cross branches

DO NOT stake or wrap

trunk unless necessary

Prune narrow crotch angles

and water spouts

Prune broken branches

Remove tags and labels

Prune suckers

Cut away all balling ropes

Remove top of wire basket

2”-3” mulch kept away from trunk

Soil well to contain water

Pre-plant Handling

Careful handling of the root ball is absolutely nec-

essary to prevent damage to the tree prior to transplanting.

Root balls are fragile regardless of the production technique

used; however, B&B trees and those in soft fabric contain-

ers are the most easily damaged. Never pick up or carry a

tree by its trunk, especially a B&B tree, due to the weight of

the root ball. Always secure the tree during transport so the

root ball is not damaged, resulting in broken roots. Trees

Widen and score

hole wall

UNAMENDED backfill soil

Partially backfill, water to

settle soil, finish backfilling

Area for water drainage

(pipe or tile could be installed)

Remove container and cut circling

roots if container-grown, or as much

burlap as possible if field-grown

Leave solid soil pedestal -

do not dig deeper than ball depth

Dig hole 2-3 times root ball width

Source: Appleton and French 1995

if the tree dies and the stump is removed. Remove any rope

or other tying materials, plant tags or labels from the trunk

to avoid girdling.

Gently backfill the planting hole with the soil that

was removed from the hole with no additional amendments.

If amendments are used, differences in soil pore sizes will

be created causing problems with water movement, water

retention and root growth between the root ball, planting

hole and surrounding soil. When the hole is about halfway

filled in, pack the soil tightly and water the tree to settle any

air pockets and to assure good contact between the soil and

tree roots. Finish backfilling the hole, then water the tree

thoroughly.

Mulch should be placed around newly planted trees

to help conserve moisture and reduce competition for mois-

ture from turfgrass. Be careful not to over-mulch (2 to 3

inches is the optimum depth), keeping the mulch 6 inches

away from the trunk of the tree to avoid disease problems

and rodent damage.

If fertilizer is applied at planting, use a slow-release

fertilizer at a rate not to exceed 1 lb. of actual nitrogen per

1,000 sq. ft. Avoid using fast-release fertilizers to avoid root

burn. Staking should only be done if absolutely necessary

and any stakes should be removed within a year following

planting. Be careful that the staking materials do not injure

the trunk of the tree or girdle the tree. Prune only broken or

diseased limbs at planting.

The need for watering following transplanting can-

not be overemphasized. The larger the tree that is trans-

planted, the more watering is necessary. Tree wraps are not

necessary following transplanting, as research has shown

that they have no beneficial effects. Loose-fitting guards

may be installed for protection from animal or equipment

damage as long as they permit good air circulation.

Careful attention to details in tree planting will im-

prove the probability of success. Correctly planted trees will

bring years of enjoyment and will enhance your property.

Transplanting Guidelines

Plan ahead to match the species to the area or site to be planted, i.e., plant the right tree in the right place. Is

the site appropriate for the tree that you want to place there?

Select high-quality plants without visible damage at the nursery or local garden center. Look for vigorous

growth, good leaf color and roots that are white and firm.

Be careful in handling and transporting the tree to the planting site. Take extra care not to damage the bark or

the root system.

Properly prepare the planting hole. The hole should be at least three times as wide as the root ball, have sloped

sides and be no deeper than the root ball.

Plant the tree as soon as possible. Do not use soil amendments. Backfill with the same soil which was removed

from the hole. Mulch.

Water, but do not overwater, newly transplanted trees. Irrigate slowly so that water infiltrates and soaks the

ground. Watering for several years, especially during droughty periods, may be necessary until the tree is fully

established.

References

Gilman, Edward F. 1997. Trees for Urban and Suburban

Landscapes. Delmar Publishers, Albany, New York.

Harris, J, Roger and Nina L. Bassuck. 1993. Tree planting

fundamentals. Journal of Arboriculture 19(2): 64-70.

Appleton, Bonnie L. and Susan French. 1995. Tree and shrub

planting guidelines. Publication 430-295. Virginia Coop-

erative Extension, Virginia Tech University, Blacksburg, VA.

Circling roots are common in containerized plants. Roots should be cut

in a few places to initiate new roots and prevent circling roots from

eventually girdling the tree trunk.

Mechanical tree spade.

Fabric container grow bag.

Appreciation is expressed to Sam Jackson for design of this publication.

SP 572 - 15M - 12 - 00

R12 - 4910 - 21 - 004 - 01

The Agricultural Extension Service offers its programs to all eligible persons regardless of race, color, national origin, sex, age, disability, religion or veteran status and is an Equal

Opportunity Employer. COOPERATIVE EXTENSION WORK IN AGRICULTURE AND HOME ECONOMICS The University of Tennessee Institute of Agriculture, U.S.

Department of Agriculture, and county governments cooperating in furtherance of Acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914.

Agricultural Extension Service Charles L. Norman, Dean

Printing for this publication was funded by the USDA Forest Service through a grant with the Tennessee Department of

Agriculture, Division of Forestry. The Trees for Tennessee Landscapes series is sponsored by the Tennessee Urban Forestry Council.

U S

FORESTRY

OF A

Plik z chomika:

Inne pliki z tego folderu:

Inne foldery tego chomika: