Chair - Chaise Lounge 2.pdf - Projekty - stolarstwo - michalxmen

TAKE IT EASY

A classic redwood recliner for deck, patio or pool.

Being equipped for warm weather fun doesn't just mean

that you know where your tennis racket is or that the pool

toys are inflated and afloat. For many of us, fun in the sun

takes on a more civilized quality, where time is spent

motionless–or nearly so–and the height of activity amounts

to turning a page or lifting the nearest icy drink.

Like our more athletic friends, though, we need the right

gear. And once the cooler is filled, the Ray-Bans are in

place and the sun-screen's at hand, everyone knows what's

needed next–a comfortable place to lay back and soak up

the rays.

Our outdoor chaise lounge (or more properly, chaise

longue, meaning "long chair" in French) is more than just a

platform in the sun. In addition to being built to stand the

abuses of the weather, it's portable, so you can follow the

sun if you wish, and its three-position back suits everything

from reading to cloud gazing. For creature comfort we

added a long cushion, but with the chaise back fully

lowered and the cushion removed, the unit converts to an

attractive bench for your deck or poolside. The cushion we

used is available from Gardener's Eden, P.O. Box 379907,

Las Vegas, NV 89137; 800-822-9600. (Order No. 69-

1611235.)

We built the chaise frame, backrest and back support out of

solid redwood and assembled the components with

stainless steel bolts, nuts and washers. To maintain the

original color of the wood, we applied a

sealant/preservative finish.

Redwood is available at many lumberyards, home centers

and specialty lumber dealers. The highest grade is called

"clear, all heart, vertical grain." Like pine, redwood comes

in nominal sizes. However, the actual thickness of the stock

will be less. For example, 1x redwood stock will be about

1/16 in. thick and 5/4 redwood will be about 1-in. thick.

Building The Frame

Rip 5/4 stock to width for the side rails and

crosscut the rails a few inches longer than the

finished dimension. Make a pattern of the rail-end

shape from 1/4-in. plywood and trace the shape

onto each rail (Photo 1). Use a sabre saw to cut

the rail-end profiles and remove the saw marks

with a spokeshave and sandpaper.

1--Make a 1/4-in.-thick template for the

rail-end shape. Then trace the shape onto

both ends of each rail blank.

Lay out the mortises for joining the legs to the

rails. Then, use a plunge router with an edge

guide to make the cuts (Photo 2). Rout each

mortise in several passes to avoid overloading the

motor and bit. Square the mortise ends with a

sharp chisel.

2--Use a plunge router with edge guide to

cut mortises for the legs. Clamp rails side

by side to provide good router support.

Cut the legs and crossrails to finished size. Then,

install a dado blade in your table saw and make

the broad tenon cheek cuts on the two faces of

each piece (Photo 3). Next, cut the tenon

shoulders in the same way.

Lay out the crossrail mortises on the leg inner

faces. Rout the mortises and square the ends

with a chisel. Test fit all the mortise-and-tenon

joints to make sure they're snug yet go together

without excess force.

3--Cut the leg tenons with a dado blade

and table saw. A stop block clamped to

the miter gauge ensures consistent tenon

lengths.

Make a template for the leg bracket and trace the

shape onto redwood stock. Orient the template so

the grain of the stock runs diagonally and cut out

the brackets.

Mark the joining-plate positions on the legs,

brackets and side rails. Clamp each piece to your

bench to cut the slots (Photo 4). Hold the plate

joiner against the benchtop to ensure accurate

slot registration.

4--Cut plate joint slots for attaching the

brackets to the legs and rails. Register the

joiner and work against bench surface.

Spread glue in the plate slots of a leg and

adjoining bracket, and spread glue on the plate.

Assemble the parts, clamp and repeat the

process on the other legs (Photo 5).

5--Apply glue to the joining-plate slots and

the plates, and join each bracket to a leg.

Clamp until the glue sets.

Prepare to join a leg/bracket subassembly to a rail

by spreading glue on the mortise-and-tenon joint

mating surfaces, in the two plate slots and on a

joining plate. Join the leg and bracket to the rail

and clamp (Photo 6). Repeat the procedure for

each leg.

Rip 5/4 stock to width for the rail cleats, and cut

them to length so their ends match the rail ends.

Lay out the angled notches for the back-support

assembly, make the cuts and sand each notch to

remove the saw marks.

6--When leg/bracket assemblies are

finished, join them to the rails. Apply glue

to plate and mortise-and-tenon joints, then

clamp.

Use an exterior glue and galvanized screws to

fasten the cleats to the side rails. Countersink the

screwholes so the screwheads are just below the

wood surface (Photo 7).

Mark the locations of the carriage bolts that fasten

the chaise back to the side rails and bore the

holes through the side/cleat subassembly.

Apply glue to the crossrail joints, assemble the

base frame, and clamp until the glue sets.

7--After cutting rail cleats to length and

shaping backrest notches, glue and screw

each cleat in place on its rail.

The Back And Slats

Cut the backrest cleats and support legs to size.

Use a sabre saw to trim the ends of each piece to

the profiles shown in the drawing. Then bore the

bolt holes and join the support legs and back

cleats with the bolts. Use one flat washer between

each leg and cleat (Photo 8).

8--Use carriage bolts to join the backrest

cleats to the support legs. Use a washer

between parts to create 1/16-in. space.

Rout the long edges of each slat with a 3/16-in.-

rad. rounding-over bit. Bore screw pilot holes in

each slat and counterbore for 3/8-in.-dia. plugs to

cover the screws.

Install the bolts to hold the back cleats to the

frame sides. Use three washers between each

back cleat and main side-rail cleat. Clamp the

cleats to the chaise sides. Then screw the first

slat to the back-support legs (Photo 9).

9--Bolt the backrest and support leg

assemblies to the rails. Align and clamp

the parts while attaching the first slat.

Use 5/16-in. blocks to space the slats and screw

each slat in place (Photo 10).

10--Use 5/16-in. blocks between slats to

create uniform spaces and screw slats in

place. Keep ends of slats 1/16 in. from

rails.

Bevel the last slat on the back to provide

clearance for the back to move to the highest

position. Leave a 1-in. space between the

beveled slat and the first slat on the chaise seat

(Photo 11).

11-Where the backrest joins the fixed seat

portion, leave a 1-in. space so the

backrest has room to pivot to its highest

position.

Use a 3/8-in.-dia. plug cutter in a drill press to cut

plugs for all the slat screwheads. Glue the plugs

in place so the grain of each aligns with the slats

(Photo 12). Saw each plug close to the surface,

and pare flush with a sharp chisel.

12--Use a small brush to spread glue on

plugs. Align plug grain with grain of slat.

Trim plugs with a fine saw and a sharp

chisel.

Lay out and bore the holes in the legs for

mounting the wheels as shown in the drawing.

Then, cut these legs 3 in. shorter (Photo 13).

13--To provide clearance for the wheels,

cut 3 in. from each rear leg with a sabre

saw. Smooth the sawn edges with

sandpaper.

Use a file or small grinding wheel to remove the

square shoulder on two 1/2 x 4-in. carriage bolts.

Then install the wheel with the modified bolts,

washers, lock washers and nuts (Photo 14).

Sand all surfaces with 120- and 220-grit

sandpaper. To protect the redwood, we applied a

coat of Cabot's Decking Stain (No. 1400, clear).

Let the finish thoroughly saturate all surfaces and

allow it to dry at least 48 hours.

14--After filing away the square shoulder

on 1/2-in. carriage bolts, use the bolts as

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