(gardening) Using Mulches.pdf

It can be held down with planks, bricks or

straw.

Pros: Free. It is useful for clearing ground

and can be replaced when the weeds start

to grow through. Vigorous growing vegeta-

bles can be planted through it. Biodegrad-

able (rots down).

Cons: Degrades quickly.

Mulches: weed prevention and control

Clearing weeds using this method can take be-

tween six months to two or three years. How-

ever, the area doesn’t have to be bare. You

can grow some vigorous plants through the

mulch.

Why use mulches?

Mulching is an excellent way of controlling

weeds and clearing ground. It works be-

cause mulches stop light from reaching the

weeds. Without light they cannot grow, be-

cause they can’t photosynthesise (the proc-

ess by which plants make food).

Mulch membranes

Geotextiles

Geotextiles are man-made membranes that

are permeable (water and air can get through).

They will last about 15 years, when covered

with a loose mulch such as wood chips. Fas-

ten the edges with wire pegs.

Pros: Excellent long-term weed control. You

can plant through geotextile membranes.

Cons: Expensive. You can’t feed plants

through it; worms can’t work in organic matter

covering the membrane. A non-renewable re-

source (can’t be used again).

Newspaper

Newspapers are excellent as a short term

mulch. They will last one growing season.

Use a whole, opened out newspaper at least

eight pages thick. Hold down with a degrad-

able mulch such as grass mowings, hay or

straw.

Pros: Free. A thick layer will keep down

perennial (grow back every year) weeds.

Use round the base of fruit bushes and rasp-

berries (remember to remove in autumn and

replace in spring). They also makes good

tree mats and can be used as a mulch in the

vegetable garden. Biodegradable .

Cons: Degrades quickly. Can make soil

more acidic.

Mulches are coverings placed on the surface

of the soil. They can be made from a number

of materials, from light-excluding mem-

branes (covers) to loose shredded prunings.

To make sure the mulch works, it is important

to choose the right one.

How do you use mulches?

In planted areas

Black plastic film (400-600 gauge – thickness)

Dig garden compost or organic fertilisers into

the soil before putting the mulch on the soil.

Put the mulch on to a moist, warm, weed free

soil. Membranes look more attractive and

last longer if they are covered in a 5cm layer

of loose mulch such as ornamental bark.

When using a loose mulch and no mem-

brane, a top up is needed to keep a 10cm

thick layer (every year or two).

Black plastic will last for one to three years. To

hold it down, bury the edges along all sides of

the beds.

Pros: Useful for clearing weedy ground before

planting. It can be covered with loose mulch.

Vigorous vegetables, such as potatoes and

courgettes, can be planted through the mem-

brane. Warms up the soil.

Cons: As it is not air or water permeable it is

not recommended for long term use. Will de-

grade (rot) quickly if exposed to the sun. A

non-renewable resource.

Loose mulch

Woodchips

Woodchips come in

many different varieties

of wood. They are

cheaper but less attractive than ornamental

bark.

Pros: Excellent for informal paths.

Biodegradable . Good use of waste mate-

rial.

Cons: Although it will stop some weeds

growing the soil must be clear of all weeds

before the woodchips are put down.

When clearing ground

Cut down long grass and

weeds with a strimmer.

Lay the membrane over the

area to be cleared, and hold

down with pegs or stones. If

weeds break through the membrane, patch it

as necessary.

Cardboard

Flattened cardboard makes

an excellent mulch which will

last for one growing season.

Using Mulches—A Student’s Guide

Ornamental bark

Pros: Hay contains potash and nitrogen.

Straw also supplies some potash. This mulch

is good for fruit bushes. Biodegradable. Good

use of waste

material.

Cons: Hay can contain

some weed seeds.

Using

Mulches

Ornamental bark is composted conifer bark. It

is more expensive than woodchips but more

attractive.

Pros: Excellent for decorative beds.

It conditions the soil. Biodegradable . Good

way of recycling waste material.

Cons: Although it will stop some perennial

weeds growing soil must be clear of all weeds

before it is put down.

Sawdust

Best used as a mulch in

‘wild’ areas or to cover

tree mats. Do not use sawdust from treated

wood.

Pros: Biodegradable . Good use of waste ma-

terial.

Cons: Sawdust takes nitrogen from the soil

and so should not be dug in.

Shredded prunings

Woody prunings and other woody material

produced in the school grounds can be

chipped or shredded to use as a mulch.

Heap them in a pile to compost for a few

months before using on planted areas. Com-

posting will darken the colour of the mulch,

giving it a more natural appearance. Add ni-

trogen—in the form of grass mowings, net-

tle liquid or nitrogen-rich manures to speed

up composting.

Pros: Can be used fresh for paths.

Biodegradable . Good use of waste materi-

als.

Cons: Home made mulches, may degrade

more quickly.

Tree mats

It is important to keep 1m² area at the base of a

tree free of other plants and weeds for three to

five years after planting. If the area isn’t clear,

the tree has competition for water and nutri-

ents. Tree mats are made of wool, geotextile or

black plastic. It is also possible to make your

own using newspaper (see newspaper sec-

tion). Fasten the mats down by burying the

edges or pegging down.

Pros: Wool mats and geotextiles are air and

water permeable. Tree mats can also be used

around large shrubs.

Cons: Wool mats can be destroyed by birds

using them for nesting material. Black plastic

is not air and water permeable. Synthetic

(man made) membranes are a non-renewable

resource.

A student ’ s guide to

using mulches for

clearing ground and

weed control

Straw/hay

Straw and hay will make a good mulch for

one season. For the most effective weed

control put straw over a membrane such as

newspaper. It is better to use semi-rotted

straw/hay.

DUCHY ORIGINALS HDRA

Organic Gardens for Schools

Mulches for weed prevention and control

Some mulch membranes

Geotextiles

Geotextiles are synthetic, woven or spun, water and

air permeable membranes. They will last an average

of 15 years when covered with a loose mulch such as

wood chips. Secure them at regular intervals with

wire pegs . Pros: Provide excellent long-term weed

control. You can plant through geotextile mem-

branes.

Newspaper

Newspaper is excellent for short-term weed sup-

pression and will last one growing season. Use

a whole opened-out newspaper at least eight

pages thick. Hold it down with a degradable

mulch such as grass mowings, hay or straw.

Pros: Free. A thick layer will suppress perennial

weeds. Use it round the base of fruit bushes

and raspberries (remember to remove it in au-

tumn and replace in spring. This ensures that

any disease spores are dis-

posed of and that the soil

can warm up in spring). It

also makes good tree mats

and can be used as a mulch

in the vegetable garden.

Biodegradable.

Why use mulches?

Mulching is an excellent way of controlling weeds

and clearing ground. It works because mulches

deprive plants of light. Without light plants cannot

photosynthesise and grow.

Mulches are placed on the surface of the soil, and

vary from light-excluding water-permeable mem-

branes, to loose shredded prunings. It is impor-

tant to use the appropriate mulch for your situa-

tion.

Cons: Expensive. Can’t feed through it; worms can’t

work in the organic matter covering the membrane.

A non-renewable resource.

Black plastic film (400-600 gauge)

Black plastic will last for one to three years. To se-

cure it, bury the edges along all sides of the beds. Si-

lage sheet comes in large rolls and is ideal for cover-

ing larger areas.

How do you use mulches?

In planted areas

Dig in garden compost or organic fertilisers before

applying a weed-controlling mulch to the surface.

Apply mulch to a moist,

warm, weed-free soil. If you

are using a membrane it

looks more attractive, and

lasts longer, if it is covered in

a 5cm layer of loose mulch

such as ornamental bark.

When using a loose mulch

without a membrane, such

as composted bark, top up as required to maintain

10cm weed-suppressing layer (every year or two).

Cons: Degrades quickly.

Pros: It is useful for clearing weedy ground prior to

planting. Plant through it and cover with loose mulch.

Vigorous growing vegetables, such as potatoes and

courgettes, can be planted through the membrane.

Warms up the soil.

Loose mulches

Woodchips

Woodchips come from many different varieties

of wood. They are cheaper but less attractive

than

ornamental bark.

Cons: As it is not air or water permeable it is not

recommended for long-term use. Will degrade

quickly if not protected from the sun. A non-

renewable resource.

Pros: Excellent for informal paths. Biodegrad-

able. Good way to recycle waste material.

Cardboard

Flattened cardboard makes an

excellent mulch which will last for

one growing season. It can be

held down with planks, bricks or

straw.

Cons: Although they will suppress perennial

weeds to some extent, the soil must be clear of

all weeds before application. To avoid the

woodchips taking nitrogen from the soil do not

dig in woodchips.

When clearing ground

Cut down long grass and weeds with a strimmer.

Lay and secure the membrane over the area to be

cleared. If weeds break through the membrane,

patch as necessary. Using this method for weed-

clearing can take between six months to two or

three years.

Pros: Free. It is useful for ground

learance and can be replenished

when the weeds start to grow through. Vigorous

growing vegetables can be planted through it. Biode-

gradable.

Ornamental bark

Ornamental bark is composted and graded coni-

fer bark. It is more expensive than woodchips

but it is visually attractive.

Using Mulches—A Teacher’s Guide

Cons: Degrades quickly.

Pros: Excellent for decorative beds. It conditions

the soil. Biodegradable. Good use of waste ma-

terial.

Sawdust

Using

Mulches

Best used as a mulch in ‘wild’

areas or to cover tree mats.

Sawdust is rich in carbon and

will last for one season. Do

not use sawdust from treated wood. Do not dig in.

Pros: Biodegradable. Recycling waste material.

Cons: The soil must be clear of weeds before

application as the mulch will only suppress

weeds, not kill already existing weeds.

Shredded prunings

Cons: Causes nitrogen robbery if dug in. It is not

suitable for highly decorative beds.

Woody prunings and other woody material pro-

duced in the school grounds can be chipped or

shredded for use as a mulch. These are best

heaped up to compost for a few months before

use on planted areas. Composting will darken

the colour of the mulch, giving it a more natural

appearance. The addition of nitrogen—in the

form of grass mowings, nettle liquid or nitrogen-

rich manures for example—to the heap of shred-

ded material will speed up the process.

Tree mats

It is important to keep a 1m²area at the base of a

tree free from competitive growth for the first three

to five years after planting. This will avoid competi-

tion with other plants for water and nutrients. Tree

mats are made of wool, geotextile or black plastic.

It is also possible to make your own using newspa-

per (see newspaper for more information). Secure

the mats down by burying the edges or pegging

down.

Pros: Can be used fresh for paths. Biodegrad-

able. Excellent use of waste materials.

Cons: Home made mulches, which are likely to

contain more green material than purchased

ones, may degrade more quickly.

Pros: Wool mats and geotextiles are air and water

permeable. Tree mats can also be used for large

shrubs.

A teacher ’ s guide to

using mulches for

clearing ground and

weed control

Straw/hay

Cons: Wool mats can be destroyed by birds using

them for nesting material. Black plastic is not air

and water permeable. Synthetic materials are a

non-renewable resource.

Straw and hay will make a good mulch for one

season. For the most effective weed control use

over a membrane such as newspaper. It is better

to use semi-rotted straw/hay.

Pros: Hay is a source of potash and nitrogen.

Straw also supplies some potash. This mulch is

extremely useful for fruit bushes. Biodegradable.

Good use of waste material.

Plik z chomika:

Inne pliki z tego folderu:

Inne foldery tego chomika: