corner-cabinet.pdf

orner Cabinet

The cheerful cabinet shown on the next page will perk up any lonely corner in your house.

The top and bottom both have storage shelves, so you can display lots of your favorite

knickknacks with the doors open (or store lots of your un-favorite knickknacks with the doors

closed). I used fabric in the top doors to match a bedspread, but you could substitute glass or

solid panels like those in the lower doors if you like. The finished cabinet is approximately 40”

wide, 78” high, and 20” deep.

The upper and lower

sections of the cabinet are

built separately and then

joined together in the final

assembly. Just take your

time and follow each step

carefully. This project takes

a lot of work, but it’s well

worth it. Countersink all

nails and screws as you

work so that the completed

project is ready for

finishing.

Special Tools and

Techniques

• Hot-glue gun

• Router (optional)

• Beveling

• Dadoes

• Mitering

• Ripping

Cutting List

Code

Description

Qty.

Material

Dimensions

A Upper Floor

1 ¾” plywood

See Fig. 1 (approx.

21” x 42)

B Upper Back

1 ¾” plywood

13-1/2” x 40

C Upper Side

2 ¾” plywood

17-1/2” x 40”

D Upper Front

2 1 x 6 pine

40” long

E Upper Shelf

2 ¾” plywood

See Figure 5 (approx.

18” x 36”)

F Upper Top

1 ¾” plywood

Same as (E)

G Upper Vertical Facer

2 1 x 4 pine, ripped

40” long

H Upper Horizontal

Facer

1 1 x 4 pine

25-5/8” long

Lower Top

1 ¾” plywood

Same as (E)

Lower Back

1 ¾” plywood

13-1/2” x 34-1/2”

K Lower Side

2 ¾” plywood

17-1/2” x 34-1/2”

L Lower Front

2 1 x 6 pine

34-1/2” long

M Lower Shelf

1 ¾” plywood

Same as (E)

N Lower Floor

1 ¾” plywood

Same as (E)

O Lower Vertical Facer

2 1 x 4 pine, ripped

34-1/2” long

P Lower Top Horizontal

Facer

1 1 x 4 pine

25-5/8” long

Q Lower Bottom

Horizontal Facer

1 1 x 4 pine

25-5/8” long

R Panel

2 1 x 12 pine

9-3/8” x 23-1/2”

S Lower Top/Bottom

Frame

4 1 x 4 pine, ripped

8-3/4” long

T Lower Side Frame

4 1 x 4 pine, ripped

26-7/8” long

U Upper Top/Bottom

Frame

4 1 x 4 pine, ripped

8-3/4” long

V Upper Side Frame

4 1 x 4 pine, ripped

36-3/8” long

W Fabric Panel

2 Fabric

23” x 33-1/2”

X Back Reinforcement

1 2 x 2 pine

Approx. 13” long

Y Side Reinforcement

2 2 x 2 pine

Approx. 17” long

Z Front Reinforcement

2 2 x 2 pine

Approx. 5” long

AA Facer Reinforcement

1 2 x 2 pine

Approx. 30” long

BB Beaded Molding

3 3-1/2” beaded

molding

Cut to fit (approx. 45”

total)

CC Fluted Molding

4 3-1/2” fluted molding Cut to fit (approx.

142” total)

DD Pine Trim

3 1 x 4 pine

Cut to fit (approx. 45”

total)

EE Cover Molding

3 ¾” x ¾”cove molding Cut to fit (approx. 45”

total)

FF Crown Molding

3 4” crown molding

Cut to fit (approx. 50”

total

Materials and Supplies

• 54 linear feet of 1 x 4 pine

• 15 linear feet of 1 x 6 pine

• 4 linear feet of 1 x 12 pine

• 8 linear feet of 2 x 2 pine

• 3 sheets of ¾-thick plywood, each 4’ x 8’

• 4 linear feet of 3-1/2’ beaded molding

• 4 linear feet of ¾” x ¾” cove molding

• 5 linear feet of 4” crown molding

• 13 linear feet of 3-1/2” fluted molding

• 1-1/2 yards of fabric

• 6 yards of upholstery braid

Hardware

• Approximately 200 #6 x 1-1/4” flathead wood screws

• Approximately 50 #6 x 2” flathead wood screws

• Approximately 75 2d finishing nails

• Approximately 200 3d finishing nails

• Approximately50 8d finishing nails

• 8 cabinet door hinges

• 4 cabinet door handles

• Tacks (optional)

Notes on Materials

Because I intended to paint this cabinet, I used paint-grade ¾-thick plywood, and for each of the

shelves, I simply filled the exposed plywood edges. If you intend to stain your cabinet, you

should purchase stain-grade material. You should also buy some very thin wood veneer strips to

match your plywood and glue them to the exposed edges of the cabinet shelves after they’re

installed.

Using careful planning, this project can be completed using 2-1/2 sheets of plywood. To

accomplish this, you must cut the narrowest pieces—the upper back (B), upper sides (C), and

lower back (J)—from the half-sheet. Any other combinations require you to have three full

sheets.

This cabinet requires extensive beveling and mitering, so I strongly recommend that beginners

who want to tackle it enlist the help of an experienced woodworker. It’s not that the cuts

themselves are difficult, but setting blade angles can be confusing until you know what you’re

doing.

Figure 1

Constructing the Upper Section

1. Using Figure 1 as a guide, carefully measure and draw the outline for the upper floor (A)

onto your ¾-thick plywood; then cut out one upper floor (A).

2. Cut one 13-1/2” x 40” upper back (B) from ¾-thick plywood.

3. Bevel both 40”-long edges of the upper back (B) at 22-1/2” degrees. Figure 2 shows the

angle cuts for all of the beveled edges of the upper cabinet back and sides.

4. Cut two upper sides (C) from ¾-thick plywood, each measuring 17-1/2” by 40”.

5. Bevel one of the 40”-long edges of each upper side (C) at 22-1/2 degrees and bevel the

opposite edge at 45-degrees as shown in Figure 2 .

6. Cut two upper fronts (D) from 1 x 6 pine, each 40” long.

7. Bevel one of the 40”-long edges of each of th4e upper fronts (D) at 22-1/2 degrees. Bevel

the opposite edge at 45 degrees.

Figure 2

8. The assembly of the upper cabinet is shown in Figures 2 and 3 . You would probably be

wise to enlist the assistance of a willing helper (or two) to accomplish this task. Study both

diagrams to familiarize yourself with how the pieces go together. Assembly won’t be the

best of times if you have to say, “hand me that book again—how does it fit together?”

As shown in Figures 2 and 3 , the upper back (B), upper sides (C) and upper fronts (D)

stand on end on top of the upper floor (A). The upper back (B) is set flush with the 13-1/2”

edge of the upper floor (A), with its narrower face on the inside of the cabinet. The upper

sides (C) are flush with the 19-1/2” edges of the upper floor, and their 22-1/2-degree

beveled edges fit against the matching beveled edges of the upper back (B). Notice,

however, that the 178-1/2”-long end of each upper side (C) is 2” shorter than the

corresponding 19-1/2” edge of the upper floor (A). The excess width of the upper floor (A)

creates a small “shelf” between the upper and lower cabinet assemblies (see Figure 3 ).

This becomes an important design element in the finished project.

Begin by attaching the upper back (B) to the upper floor (A). Glue the parts together and

insert 1-1/4” screws through the bottom of the upper floor (A) and into the edge of the

upper back (B), spacing the screws about 3” apart.

9. Fit the 22-1/2-degree beveled edge of one upper side (C) against the matching beveled edge

of the upper back (B), positioning the side (C) so that its outer face is flush with the edge of

the upper floor (A). Glue the parts together and insert 1-1/4” screws through the upper

floor (A) and into the edge of the upper side (C), spacing the screws about 3” apart. Then

insert 3d finishing nails through the bevel in the upper back (B) and into the beveled edge

of the upper side (C), spacing the nails about 4” apart.

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