The Medieval Tailor's Assistant.pdf

The Medieval Tailor's Assistant

SARAH THURSFIELD

making common garments 1200 -1500

Tailor, 1320-1330, English

He is fashionably dressed in a loose surcote with peaked sleeves and fitchets

(side slits) which give access to the belt and purse beneath. His fitted cote

sleeves emerge at the wrists. He wears well-fitted hose and plain shoes; a loose

hood with a long point is thrown back round his shoulders. He appears to be

cutting out and shaping a cote, using a large pair of shears (probably

exaggerated), and appropriating a remnant at the same time.

Hours of the Blessed Virgin Mary British Library MS Harley 6563, f. 65

The Medieval Tailor's Assistant

making common garments 1200 -1500

SARAH THURSFIELD

Scans/Source: Kakaj

Electronic edit/OCR: Sauron

RUTH BEAN

Carlton, Bedford

First published 2001 in the United Kingdom by

Ruth Bean Publishers

Victoria Farmhouse, Carlton, Bedford MK43 7LP

First published 2001 in the USA by

Costume & Fashion Press

an imprint of

Quite Specific Media Group Ltd

7373 Pyramid Place, Hollywood, CA 90046

stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any

means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, recording, or otherwise,

without the prior permission of the publisher

ISBN 0 903585 32 4

A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library

Design Alan Bultitude

Photo styling Caryl Mossop

Photography Mark Scudder & Les Goodey

Digital artwork Personabilia Design & Print, Higham Ferrers, Northants

Printed in Hong Kong

Cover

Modern version of the chaperon, mid 15th century

The classic chaperon, seen here in black broadcloth, is made up of three parts - the

liripipe and shoulder cape (gorget), which are sewn to a padded roll. The roll

sometimes appears quite solid and may have been felted. The chaperon is often seen

slung over the shoulder where it would stay in place with a long enough liripipe.

Contents

List of plates

Lacing and eyelets 54

Garters 55

Buttons & buttonholes 55/58

Hooks and eyes 55

Decorations 59

Embroidery 59

Dagging 60

Small-wares & other techniques 61

Cords and laces 61

Tablet weaving 61

Netting 61

Knitting 61

Tassels 62

Mending 62

Materials 63

Wool 63

Choosing your material; Colours 63

Linen, canvas and cotton 64

Choosing your material; Colours 64

Silk 64

Choosing your silk 65

Buying fabrics 65

Materials to avoid; A note about selvedges 65

Fur

Acknowledgements

Introduction

How to use the book

Part 1 The techniques

Preparation 13

Sources of information 13

Collecting information 13

Establishing the date for your outfit 13

Defining the wearer 15

Selecting your garments: visual inventory 15

Wearing your outfit 22

Care and storage 22

The personal pattern Block 23

Planning directly from personal measurements 23

Measurements 23

Modelling a bodice toile 23

Modelling a toile for a man 25

Modelling a toile for a woman 27

From toile to Block 29

Transferring the toile to paper; The intermediate

pattern; From intermediate pattern to Block 29

The sleeve Block 34

Trying out the sleeve with the bodice Block 37

Cutting the sleeve

Choosing your fur

Threads

Choosing threads

Blocks for children

Tools for demonstrating sewing

From Block to working pattern

Enlarging the Block for outer garments

Part 2 The garments

Entries in bold type indicate patterns

BODY LINENS

Braies, shirts and smocks

Adapting the Block to add length,

width or fullness 40

Adapting the Block for long skirts 42

Making the working pattern for a garment 42

Methods

Making and laundering

Materials

Hand or machine stitching?

Cutting out

Sewing stitches

Sewing methods

Making up

Setting in simple sleeves

Braies

The breech girdle

Slits for fitchets, slashes for sleeves

Long-legged braies

Interlining (interfacing)

Short braies

Interlining flat pieces

Lining

Shirts and smocks

Lining close-fitting sleeves

Planning and cutting

Facings

Shirt

Collars and cuffs

Making up

Stomachers

Smock

Working with fur

Tapered sleeve

Fastenings

Neck finishes and collar

Finishing raw edges

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