Wirework - Snap-set Pendant.pdf

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intermediate
wire
  The decorative 
bail is an integral 
part of this pendant.
9 ⁄ 16  x 1 3 ⁄ 16  in.
(14 x 30mm).
Showcase a
faceted
gemstone
with
wire
snappy answer
by Anna Lemons
s nap a faceted gemstone into a ready-made setting,
and add wirework for a quick project.
a r t j ew e l r y m a g . c o m
whorls
of
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2
3
4
5
6
7
[1] Set the stone. Lay the table
facet of a gemstone face down on
an even surface. Place the prongs
of a snap setting over the stone, and
gently push. The prongs will open
to accept the stone and then audibly
snap closed to secure it.
bending the wires around a pencil
1 in. (25.5mm) from the end of the
wires [2] . Keeping the wires parallel,
use flatnose pliers to make a 45°
bend in the shorter wires at the top
of the U [3] . Use flatnose pliers to
form a loop by pressing the pair of
shorter wires against the pair of
longer wires on the opposite side
of the U bend [4] .
Cut the excess bail wire. Tuck
the ends of the bail wire into the
snap setting, leaving enough wire
between the base of the bail and
the stone to accept another wire
wrap that will be made in step 7.
Cut the excess bail wire.
Cut and straighten the wire.
Cut two 9-in. (22.9cm) pieces of 22-
gauge (0.6mm) 14k gold-filled wire.
Straighten each wire by holding one
end of the wire with flatnose pliers
and pulling the wire through a
polishing cloth.
[6–7] Make a coil and the first
curve, and secure the bail. Using
your thumb for leverage, make a
counterclockwise coil below the
stone [6] . Bring the two wires up,
and curve them beside the stone
toward the bail. Tightly wrap the
wires around the base of the bail,
making one full revolution to the
front of the pendant [7] .
[5] Thread the snap setting on the
wire. Thread the wires through the
snap setting so that one wire passes
along one side of the top and
bottom prongs and the other wire
passes along the other side of the
top and bottom prongs.
[2–4] Make the bail. Hold the wires
together. Make a U shape by
a r t j ew e l r y m a g . c o m
276007501.004.png
materials
6mm faceted gemstone
6mm 14k gold-filled
snap setting
14k gold-filled wire:
22-gauge (0.6mm),
square, dead-soft, 18 in.
(45.7cm)
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tools & supplies
Wire cutters
Flatnose pliers
Polishing cloth
8
9
resources
Faceted gemstone
(Fire Mountain Gems,
800.355.2137,
firemountaingems.com)
Snap setting and wire
(Rio Grande,
800.545.6566,
riogrande.com)
■
  The back of 
the pendant is a 
tidy reverse 
image of the 
front.
10
11
[8] Make a coil at the top of the
pendant. Using your thumb, make
another counterclockwise coil with
the wires, keeping the wires tight
together. The wires will be pointing
toward the bottom of the pendant.
[11] Wrap, cut, and tuck the
wires. Wrap the wires behind the
bottom of the second curve. Cut the
wires, leaving 1 ⁄ 8 in. (3mm). Bend the
ends flat against the wire in the back
of the pendant.
back
[9–10] Make the second curve.
Shape the second curve by
bringing the wires toward the
bottom of the pendant. Working
from back to front, thread the wires
through the center of the bottom
loop [9] , and pull the wires gently to
maintain a graceful curve [10] .
front
a r t j ew e l r y m a g . c o m
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