Scotland.pdf

Scotland

8th Edition

by Darwin Porter & Danforth Prince

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About the Authors

Darwin Porter has covered Scotland since the beginning of his travel-writing

career as author of Frommer’s England & Scotland. Since 1982, he has been joined

in his efforts by Danforth Prince, formerly of the Paris Bureau of the New York

Times. Together, they’ve written numerous best-selling Frommer’s guides—notably

to England, France, and Italy.

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Contents

List of Maps

vii

What’s New in Scotland

The Best of Scotland

1 The Best Travel Experiences . . . . .3

2 The Best Golf . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

3 The Best Fishing . . . . . . . . . . . . .7

4 The Best Countryside Drives . . . . .8

5 The Best Bike Rides . . . . . . . . . . .9

6 The Best Hikes . . . . . . . . . . . . .10

7 The Best Castles & Palaces . . . . .11

8 The Best Cathedrals . . . . . . . . . .12

9 The Best Ruins . . . . . . . . . . . . .13

10 The Best Museums . . . . . . . . . .14

11 The Best Luxury Hotels . . . . . . . .14

12 The Best Moderately Priced

Hotels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16

13 The Best Restaurants . . . . . . . . .17

14 The Best Pubs . . . . . . . . . . . . . .17

15 The Best Shopping . . . . . . . . . .18

Planning Your Trip to Scotland

1 The Regions in Brief . . . . . . . . .20

2 Visitor Information . . . . . . . . . . .23

3 Entry Requirements &

Customs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .24

4 Money . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26

5 When to Go . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28

Scotland Calendar of Events . . . .29

6 Travel Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . .32

7 Health & Safety . . . . . . . . . . . . .33

8 Specialized Travel Resources . . . .34

9 Planning Your Trip Online . . . . . .38

Frommers.com: The Complete

Travel Resource . . . . . . . . . . . . .39

10 The 21st-Century Traveler . . . . . .39

Online Traveler’s Toolbox . . . . . .41

11 Getting There . . . . . . . . . . . . . .42

12 Getting Around Scotland . . . . . .46

Getting Your VAT Refund . . . . . .50

13 Recommended Books . . . . . . . .52

Fast Facts: Scotland . . . . . . . . . .54

The Active Vacation Planner

1 Teeing Off: Golfing in Scotland . . .59

2 Fishing . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .64

3 Biking, Walking & Other

Outdoor Pursuits . . . . . . . . . . . .65

Edinburgh & the Lothian Region

1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .70

The Neighborhoods in Brief . . . .72

Finding an Address . . . . . . . . . .73

2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . . .74

Fast Facts: Edinburgh . . . . . . . .75

3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76

Family-Friendly Hotels . . . . . . . .85

4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . . .88

Family-Friendly Restaurants . . . .92

5 Exploring the City . . . . . . . . . . .95

CONTENTS

Frommer’s Favorite Edinburgh

Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .99

The Father of Dr. Jekyll &

Mr. Hyde . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .104

Britannia: The People’s

Yacht . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .105

6 Special Events & Festivals . . . . .109

7 Spectator Sports &

Outdoor Pursuits . . . . . . . . . . .110

8 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .111

Tracing Your Ancestral Roots . . .115

9 Edinburgh After Dark . . . . . . . .116

10 Side Trips from Edinburgh: The

Best of the Lothian Region . . . .119

The Borders & Galloway Regions

126

1 Jedburgh: Gateway to

the Borders . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .128

2 Kelso: Abbey Ruins &

Adam Architecture . . . . . . . . . .132

Robert Adam: Architect to

the King . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .134

3 Melrose . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .137

A Walk Along the Borders . . . .139

4 Selkirk: At the Heart of

Scott Country . . . . . . . . . . . . .141

Sir Walter Scott: Master of

Romance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .142

5 Peebles . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .143

6 Moffat . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .147

7 Dumfries: An Ode to Burns . . . .150

8 Castle Douglas . . . . . . . . . . . .154

9 Kirkcudbright: An Artists’

Colony . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .157

10 Portpatrick: Where the Southern

Upland Way Begins . . . . . . . . .159

Glasgow & the Strathclyde Region

161

1 Essentials . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .162

The Neighborhoods in Brief . . .165

2 Getting Around . . . . . . . . . . . .166

Fast Facts: Glasgow . . . . . . . . .168

3 Where to Stay . . . . . . . . . . . . .169

Family-Friendly Hotels . . . . . . .173

4 Where to Dine . . . . . . . . . . . .177

Family-Friendly Restaurants . . .179

5 Seeing the Sights . . . . . . . . . . .183

A Man Ahead of His Time:

CharlesRennie Mackintosh . . . .188

Frommer’s Favorite Glasgow

Experiences . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .190

6 Special Events . . . . . . . . . . . . .191

7 Shopping . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .193

8 Glasgow After Dark . . . . . . . . .196

9 Side Trips from Glasgow:

The Best of the Strathclyde

Region . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .199

Robert Burns: National Poet &

Penniless Genius . . . . . . . . . . .204

Argyll & the Southern Hebrides

210

1 The Isle of Arran: Scotland in

Miniature . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .210

2 The Kintyre Peninsula . . . . . . . .217

3 The Isle of Gigha & Scotland’s

Finest Gardens . . . . . . . . . . . .221

4 The Isle of Islay: Queen of

the Hebrides . . . . . . . . . . . . . .222

5 The Isle of Jura: Deer Island . . .226

6 Inveraray . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .227

Hiking in Argyll Forest Park . . .228

7 Loch Awe: Scotland’s

Longest Loch . . . . . . . . . . . . .230

8 Oban: Gateway to Mull &

the Inner Hebrides . . . . . . . . . .232

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