Bizuteria kurs Jewellery handmade jewelery jevelery kolczyki bransoletki naszyjniki koraliki(CRAFTS)_An_Insider_Look_at_Jewelry_Making_and_Beading_Chapter_1 (29).pdf

beginner

wire

Sun

Rays

Link sunburst shapes in graduated sizes to make a simple wire choker.

by Cynthia Wuller

A trip to the Philippines in my early teens inspired me to take up wire-

The featured necklace can be made with craft wire or with

sterling silver wire. Instead of using turquoise beads, you can

substitute a different natural stone bead or pearl.

The open, curved links in this

necklace are forged to work-

harden and strengthen the

wire. 2 x 14 in. (51 x 356mm).

a r t j ew e l r y m a g . c o m

of the

working. The intricate wire objects displayed at the open-air market

amazed me. Taking my cue from these designs, I strive to manipulate

wire into jewelry that is simultaneously delicate and sturdy.

This necklace is made with 16 ray links, in four different sizes, that

are connected to 14 bead links. Refer to the chart, below , as a quick

guide for cutting and shaping the wire pieces for the ray links.

small

Length of

wire for

each link

Width of

curved

link

Opening

between

ray loops

medium

Link

size

Number

of links

small

2 3 ⁄ 4 in. (70mm)

5 ⁄ 8 in. (16mm)

3 ⁄ 8 in. (9.5mm)

large

medium

3 in. (76mm)

3 ⁄ 4 in. (19mm)

3 ⁄ 8 in. (9.5mm)

large

4 in. (10.2cm)

7 ⁄ 8 in. (22mm)

3 ⁄ 8 in. (9.5mm)

x-large

5 1 ⁄ 4 in. (13.3cm) 1 1 ⁄ 4 in. (32mm)

1 ⁄ 2 in. (13mm)

Make the ray links

Cut the wire for the ray links.

Use wire cutters to cut 20-gauge

(0.8mm) craft wire or sterling silver

wire into the pieces specified in the

chart, above .

one hand, use the thumb and

forefinger of your other hand to

make a curve that bows outward

on each side of the bend [3] .

face of a planishing hammer to forge

the ray, avoiding the loops. This

work-hardens the wire and confirms

the shape.

[4] Make loops in the ray link.

Use roundnose pliers to make a basic

loop at each end of the wire, and

then bend the loops perpendicular

to the ray link.

Shape the remaining ray links.

Follow steps 1–5 to shape and forge

the remaining ray links.

[1–3] Shape a ray link. Use chain-

nose pliers to make a tight U at the

midpoint of a piece of wire [1] . Using

your fingers, gently open the U [2] .

Holding the bent tip of the wire in

[5] Forge the ray link. Place the ray

link on a steel block, then use the flat

a r t j ew e l r y m a g . c o m

Curve the ray links

[6] Curve the small and medium

ray links. Lay the widest part of the

ray link on the middle knuckle of

your forefinger. Use your other hand

to gently bend the link to give it a

subtle curve.

bead links

[8] Make the bead links. Cut a 1-in.

(25.5mm) piece of wire. On one end,

make a plain loop (see Basics). Slide

a 6mm bead on the wire, and make

a plain loop. Grasp the loops with

chainnose and roundnose pliers, and

align the loops in the same plane [8] .

Make a total of 14 bead links.

nose pliers to wrap the bent end

around the straight end [10] . Use

roundnose pliers to make a loop in

the stem.

Place the doubled wire on a steel

block, and, avoiding the wraps, use a

planishing hammer to flatten the

wire.

Grasp the center of the doubled

wire in roundnose pliers, and then

bend the doubled wire around one

jaw of the pliers to form a hook [11] .

Bend the tip of the doubled wire up

45°. Position the chainnose pliers at

the bend you just made, and

squeeze the pliers to close the hook.

[7] Curve the larger ray links.

Lay the widest part of the ray link

over the heel of your thumb, and

gently bend the link to give it a

subtle curve.

Make the clasp

[9–11] Make the hook. Cut a 2½-in.

(64mm) piece of wire. Use needle-

nose pliers to bend a tight U at the

midpoint of the wire [9] . Measure

3 ⁄ 8 in. (9.5mm) from one end, and

make a perpendicular bend. Using

roundnose pliers, grasp both ends

just above the bend, and use chain-

Curve the tips of all the ray

links. Use chainnose pliers to

slightly curve up the tips of all

the ray links.

[12–14] Make the eye. Cut a 1½-in.

(38mm) piece of wire. Place the

center of the wire at the midpoint of

your roundnose pliers, and make a

loop [12] . Use chainnose pliers to

a r t j ew e l r y m a g . c o m

Make the

materials

Craft wire: 20-gauge

(0.8mm), round, 2 yd.

(1.8m)

Sterling silver wire: 20-

gauge (0.8mm), round,

half-hard, 2 yd. (1.8m)

(optional)

14 beads or pearls: 6mm

■

14 bead links

■

tools & supplies

Wire cutters

Pliers: chainnose,

roundnose, needlenose

Steel block

Hammer: planishing

10 small links

2 medium links

■

suppliers

The author prefers Bead

Smith Craft Wire (Fusion

Beads, fusionbeads.com)

Sterling silver wire (Rio

Grande: 800.545.6566,

riogrande.com)

Beads or pearls (Fire

Mountain Gems,

800.355.2137,

firemountaingems.com)

■

Assemble the

necklace as shown.

1 x-large link

3 large links

Cynthia

Wuller ’s

wirework

jewelry designs

are an extrapo-

lation of a

storied history

inspired by characters from

mythology and fairy tales. “I

imagined Rays of the Sun to be a

necklace that gives special abilities

to the wearer,” she says. “It was

meant for a person to temporarily

use power from the god, Ra. The

links captured the sun rays and

transferred that power to the

wearer. When in use, the links would

hold glowing disks that would

slowly fade out when the power

ends.” Wuller may be contacted via

e-mail at cbwuller@yahoo.com.

make two wraps below the loop [13] .

Use roundnose pliers to make a

second, smaller loop on the opposite

end of the wire. Hammer the loops,

avoiding the wraps, and check the fit

with the hook [14] .

Open one loop of a bead link and

attach one pair of loops of the extra-

large ray link and the large ray link.

Close the bead link. Next, add a large

ray link and a small ray link, pairing

them as you did the large and extra-

large ray links. Add a bead link and a

medium ray link. Connect an

alternating pattern of five bead links

and four small links. Repeat on the

other side of the focal point.

necklace

[15] Connect the links. Refer to the

diagram, above, as you assemble the

necklace. Begin at the focal point of

the necklace. Set the large ray link on

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