Table - TV Riser Plans.pdf - Woodworking Plans - t240

TV RISER

Cherry

MAKING THE TV RISER

surface when the craftsman is attempting to remove material

quickly. With this crowned iron, it's relatively easy to re-

move significant amounts of thickness. It does, however,

leave a rippled, rather than smooth, surface, so it must be

followed by a plane fit with a conventional iron.

Next, cut the grooves into which the scrollwork will be

inset. You can cut the groove across the bottom face of

the top panel in one pass over a table saw fit with a 3 /8"

stack of dado cutters. But the grooves in the two end panels

must be handled differently. Because the scrollwork is only

two inches high, stopped grooves are necessary.

You can cut these freehand with a mallet and chisel or

start them on the table saw and finish them by hand.

The scroll is then thicknessed, ripped to width, and

profiled on the band saw.

Following the procedure discussed in chapter twenty-

five, cut the through dovetails joining the end and top

panels. Then, glue-up the riser around the strip of scroll-

work, and plug the holes in the ends of the grooves.

First, the material that will make up the riser is glued

together.

Then, dress down the glued-up panel to a flat surface

and a consistent thickness. In a shop with a big planer,

this involves nothing more than feeding the stock into the

machine; but in a small shop, like mine, this 15" panel

must be flattened and smoothed with hand planes.

If the boards used to create the panel were all flat and

all aligned correctly at glue-up, you may not need to do

more than scrape away the glue squeeze-out and make a

couple of token passes with a jack plane. However, boards

are rarely flat, often undulating along their lengths like

bacon. In such cases, more substantial plane work may be

needed.

I begin by exchanging the regular iron in my jack plane

for one that's been crowned across its width. This shape

eliminates the sharp corners on either side of the iron's

width, corners that can dig too deeply into the planed

CUTTING A STOPPED GROOVE

ON THE TABLE SAW

1 To match the 2" height of the scrollwork, the groove must

stop 2 3 /8" from the top of the end panels. The extra 3/8"

provides for the 3/4 " top minus the 3/8" groove cut into that top.

The arrow penciled on the fence marks a point 2 3/8" past

the leading edge of the dado cutters.

2 When the end panel is fed into the cutters as far as the

penciled arrow, the cutters have advanced the groove 2 3/8".

(Due to the circular shape of the dado cutters, a bit of material

will remain in the end of the groove. This is removed with a

chisel.)

GLUING-UP PANELS

A wash of mineral spirits reveals color, enabling you to

achieve better matches.

Matching figure and color is the first step. Here, two walnut

boards with sapwood edges are being matched.

These two pieces of

cherry were both cut

from the same board,

assuring a consistent

color. Also, making the

joint at the edges of the

board where the lines of

figure cluster close

together helps to pro-

duce an invisible glue

line.

Once you have matched (or, as in this case, contrasted) color

and grain, form glue joints (the lowly butt joints) on the

edges of each board. These joints consist of nothing more than

flat, straight planes 90° from the board's adjacent surfaces.

You can create the joint by hand, using a jack or jointing

plane. However, this is fussy work requiring experience and a

steady hand. You can also create the joint on the jointer, a

stationary power tool designed to perform this very task.

After cutting the joints, coat each edge with glue and align

them in pipe or bar clamps. These are necessary in order to bring

the joints tightly together.

Clamp arrangement should follow the pattern shown above.

Position them no more than 12"-15" apart on alternate sides of

the panel. After a couple of hours, you can remove them; within

eight hours, you can work the panel.

Table - TV Riser Plans.pdf

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