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Popular Mechanics - Fencing Lessons

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FENCING LESSONS

For those who don't buy off the rack.

TEXT AND PHOTOS BY THOMAS KLENCK

Published on: April 1, 1999

Homeowners build fences for a lot of different reasons. Some want

total backyard privacy while others can live with a partial

screen–enough to peek at the neighbors without feeling on display.

And then there are the practical types who lean toward chain link

for keeping the kids in and the neighbor's dog out. However, you

don't need kids, dogs or something to hide to want a fence. The fact

is, a well-designed fence is one of the best ways to add personality

to your home. If it also defines your space in a useful way–so much

the better.

Of all the fences you might build, the picket fence is one of the

most popular. Depending on how it's detailed, a picket fence is as

appropriate in a community of split-levels as it is in the backyard

of an urban townhouse. The partial screen of a picket fence adds an

element of friendly privacy to the landscape–you're not shutting the

world out, you're just organizing it.

Our fence is made up of 1 x 4 pickets screwed to 2 x 4 rails. While

the picket/rail assembly is conventional, our post design has

several unique features. First, the posts are boxed--3/4-in.-thick

pine encases a pressure-treated 4 x 4 core. Then, instead of

full-length 4 x 4s, ours extend from below the frost line to about 20

in. above grade. This stub post negates the effect of excessive twist

common in longer lengths of 4 x 4 stock.

1--Gang together picket blanks and use a circular

saw set at 45 degrees to make most of the cuts for

the rough picket shape.

The box post design also makes it easy to notch in the rails and

completely enclose the rail ends. At the top, our post has a 4 x 4

core block with a pyramid-shaped upper end. Surrounding the

block and recessed into it is a sloped collar that seals out the

weather. Decorative trim underneath the collar completes the post

top.

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Ground Work

This fence is designed for a relatively level site. If your site has

minor elevation variations, plan for the tops of the pickets and

posts and the top rails to be level. Cut the bottoms of the pickets

and posts to suit the grade and adjust the bottom rail position

accordingly. We preassembled the picket/rail sections in modular

lengths of 12 pickets (about 8 ft.) and built shorter, custom sections

where necessary. Note that rail lengths change depending on

whether the picket/rail assembly is in the middle of a straight run

of posts, at a corner or at an end or terminating post.

2--Finish the rough picket outline by making the

longer side cuts on individual pickets with a sabre

saw.

Carefully lay out the post hole positions and dig the holes below

the frost line. Keep the removed soil covered on a tarp or plywood

panel until it's time to backfill the holes.

The Pickets And Rails

We used a router to shape the pickets. To reduce the load on the

router, first rough out the shape of each picket with straight cuts.

Make a template of the rough picket profile as shown in the

drawing accompanying this article and use this to mark your work.

Gang a number of pickets together, make sure they're aligned and

hold them in place with a pipe clamp. Then make the 45 degrees

cuts with your circular saw (Photo 1). Use a sabre saw to make

final cuts on the sides of the individual pickets (Photo 2).

3--Use a router, 1/2-in. bit, 1-in. guide bushing

and picket jig to trim the rough pickets to the

finished shape.

Build the picket jig shown in the drawing to hold each picket while

the final shape is routed. Clamp each picket in the jig and use a

1/2-in. straight bit and 1-in. guide bushing to make the cuts (Photo

3). Use a router table and piloted chamfer bit to shape a 1/8-in.

bevel around the top and sides of each picket.

Cut the rails to length based on your plan. Note that the distances

from the outer pickets of each section to the rail ends vary

depending on the type of post. At an end post the rails extend

through the inside of the box. At a corner, the rails of one section

run long while the rails of the adjacent section are short and butt

against the longer rails. In a continuous run of fence the rails meet

at the post centerlines.

4--Build an assembly table with stops to position

rails. Use spacers to locate pickets and attach with

two screws per rail.

Preassemble the rail and picket sections, securing each picket with

two screws at each rail (Photo 4). Use a piece of plywood with

stops attached to locate the rails. Then use spacer blocks to position

the remaining pickets.

The Posts

Rip 1 x 6 pine to 5 in. wide for the wider post faces. Cut two

5-in.-wide pieces and two 1 x 4 pieces to length for each post. Use

the chamfer bit and router table to shape the stopped chamfer on

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the wider pieces as shown. Then, cut the rail notches with a sabre

saw. Screw two 1 x 4 pieces to a 5-in. piece to make three-sided

posts (Photo 5). Bore angled screw pilot holes so the screwheads

miss the chamfers. Countersink the holes slightly.

Cut the top 4 x 4 blocks to length and shape the ends with a miter

saw (Photo 6). We used cedar for the top blocks as it was dry and

dimensionally stable. If you use pressure-treated stock, you may

need to trim the 4 x 4s with a power plane or hand plane so the

blocks fit the 3 1/2-in.-sq. box openings. Build a jig to rout the

recess around each block as shown. Attach each top block to a post

with screws driven through on two adjacent sides (Photo 7).

5--Assemble three-sided post boxes. Bore screw

pilot holes and drive screws at a slight angle so

heads miss the post chamfers.

6--Use a power miter box to cut top blocks to size

and shape. Set the saw for 23 degrees and trim to

centerlines marked on the block end.

7--After routing the recess around each block,

install three-sided posts and secure with a screw

on two adjacent sides.

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Make the collar stock by ripping 5/4 pine to the angle shown. Miter

each collar piece to length and assemble three-sided collars with

screws and exterior glue. Slide each partial collar in place from the

open side of the post, align it and secure one side with screws (Photo

8). Then, add the fourth collar piece on each post and screw the collar

to the box sides as shown.

Use an ogee bit to rout the post cap trim in 5/4 pine, miter the trim and

install three sides around the box post (Photo 9).

Cut the 4 x 4 core posts to length, check that they will fit in the box

cavities and plane the faces if necessary. Place each in its hole and use

a line level to locate the notch positions. Cut the notches by making a

series of cuts with a circular saw and removing the waste with a chisel

(Photo 10). Check that the bottom of each box post will end at the

correct height above the ground and trim if necessary. Secure the posts

to the 4 x 4 cores with four screws on two adjacent sides.

8--Slide three-sided collar around block from open

side of post. Secure with screws and attach

remaining side with glue and screws.

Installation And Finish

After priming the posts, place them in their holes with the open sides

facing the inside of the fence. Then, clamp a picket/rail assembly to

each pair of posts. Screw the bottom rail of each section to the notch in

the 4 x 4 core post (Photo 11).

Use braces screwed to stakes to hold the posts upright in the holes.

Plumb each post and sight down the fence to make sure they're

aligned. When you're satisfied, backfill the holes, tamping down the

soil after every few shovels.

9--Use galvanized finishing nails to secure trim

under the post collar around three sides of the box

post. Drive two nails per piece.

Install the remaining post sides with screws driven into the existing

post boxes, post cores, top blocks and upper rails. Cover all

screwheads with exterior-grade wood filler and nail the remaining

piece of trim at the top.

Build each gate as a typical fence section, except with end pickets

flush with each pair of rail ends. Position the picket tops to create a

concave curve as shown and screw them to the rails. Cut a diagonal

brace to fit, secure it to the rails with 2-in. No. 12 screws and screw

the pickets to the brace.

10--Cut 4 x 4 post notches by making a series of

kerfs with a circular saw. Then remove the waste

with a sharp chisel.

Apply a bead of paintable silicone caulk to the gap around the post

collar and along all mitered seams (Photo 12). Attach the gates with

heavy-duty T hinges, using 2-in. screws where the hinge screw holes

are over the fence rails (Photo 13). For a double driveway gate, install

a cane bolt on one side and attach the second gate to the first with a

barrel bolt. Fill and sand all remaining holes. We finished our fence

with an acrylic primer followed by semi-gloss acrylic white paint.

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11--With the posts resting in their holes, install

picket/rail assemblies. Screw bottom rails to 4 x 4

posts, then plumb and align fence.

12--Apply a paintable silicone caulk in the gap

between the collar and top block. Also, caulk any

open joints in trim or box sides.

13--Clamp support sticks to the gate to help align

it with the fence. Use 2-in. screws to secure hinges

to fence rails.

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