Viking Womens.pdf

Viking Costume – women

Mistress Barbara Atte Dragon

Cloth and Fabric

The types of textiles found from Vikings age are wool and linen.

These textiles were woven as either a simple tabby weave or a twill weave.

2x2 twill, Hald

broken diamond twill, Hald

Solid colors, natural fleece color, and natural dye colors are acceptable colors.

Colors are limited to ‘natural dye’ stuffs that were available during the Viking age for dying cloth and

yarn.

Woven cloth (wool) be woven fabric (dark warp, light weft) in 2x2 twills, herringbone or diamond twills.

Solid colors are fine too.

Lightweight wools for gowns and tunics; heavier ‘coat’ weight wool for caftan style coats and shawls.

Silk can also be added to the list of cloth but was used in strips that were sewn onto clothing for

decoration. Silk was also used for women’s caps (Jorvick) and as an undergarment (Birka). Silk should

have a fine hand woven appearance rather than the slinky, modern, shiny kerchief type silk.

Belts, ties, reinforcements for cuffs, necklines, and decoration were done with tablet/card weaving.

These bands were woven in wool, linen, silk and/or a combination.

When planning your clothing it is advisable to use wool and/or linen. We know that these fabrics can be

expensive. If you can find an acceptable blend, such as; linen/cotton, linen/ramie, and if the color

choice and weave are acceptable; then these will accepted as a first year attempt to be replaced by

100% wools and linens at a later date. Cotton may also be used if it has the appropriate appearance,

i.e. if it looks like linen.

Polyester, Acrylic and other synthetics will not be approved.

Machine sewn seams will be acceptable as long they are hidden.

Inside seams and hems need to be finished in some fashion. All visible seams must be hand sewn.

Garment Construction Notes

Hand sewing

Please refer to Textiles and Clothing c. 1150-1450, Medieval Finds from Excavations in London, Cloth

and Clothing in Medieval Europe , Essays in Memory of Professor E. C. Carus-Wilson, Ancient Danish

Textiles from Bogs and Burials, A comparative study of Costume and Iron Age textiles

by Margrethe Hald for an overview of hand sewing techniques.

Undergarments

There is no evidence that undergarments were worn. One burial site showed a women that was buried

in an undergarment of a simple tube dress made of silk, ankle length, sleeveless, with a front opening,

neck slit, gathered and tied at the neck.

There has been some indication that women may have worn breeches and/leg wraps. We will leave

this up to your discretion, especially if there is inclement weather during the event. Breeches should be

made of linen or wool. Leg wraps are also linen or wool.

Gown

Dress can be made or either wool or linen (or silk for tubular underdress).

Choices are:

Linen or Silk Pleated 10 th C

Eura 10C Finland or e

Hangerok with

Tube dress, sleeved or sleeveless

14CGreenland GoreStyle

broaches and necklace(s)

(shorter version worn as underwear) over gown - Linen or wool

Linen or wool

OR:

9 th -10C Finnish Viking gown in either

9 th -10thCPeplos with shoulder broaches, chain

wool or linen

chains and personals (comb, needle cases, knife, etc.).

Hangerok (Apron) is a tube of fabric with shoulder straps. This could be worn over any of these

dresses. There are two ways that the apron can be ‘fitted’. With the tube cut and sewn, you can take

tucks/pleats under the arm and in the back or pleats can also be made in the back between the

shoulder straps. Shoulder straps are attached in the back and pinned in place with broaches in the

front. The hangerok can be worn with a tablet woven, rigid heddle woven or thin leather belt (no

buckle).

The Hangerok can also be cut with side panels (gores) added in the side to make the fit better and

allow for easier movement while walking. You can wear this style with or without a belt.

Two styles of hangerok

Pattern layout for hangerok

Chest

Waist

Hips

Cloth and

Clothing in

Medieval Europe

Eura dress pattern

Archeology of Novgorod, Russia

Ancient Finnish Costumes

Greenland gown and similar patterns are in the Appendix.

The Greenland gown can be a more fitted dress. It is cut with more side panels/gores sewn with middle

front and back gores for fullness. It can be made to fit loose or fitted. The Under dress is of linen or fine

wool, the over dress is linen or wool.

The Finnish Viking dress is just one rectanangle folded over (the length/width of arms + shoulders).

Head opening is made, under arm gores. The skirt is a gathered tube that is ankle length and sewn to

the top. Refer to drawing

Cloak, Shawl, Kaftans Coat

Book of Viking York

Cloaks are rectangular and pinned at the throat.

Shawls are squares; or folded to a triangle; or a triangle with/or without rounded corners.

Shawls are pinned at the throat with a trefoil broach.

The caftan coat is similar to a man's coat only the front points of both front panels are rounded. There

can be a train added in back and the coat is also fastened at the throat with a broach. The coat can be

made of wool or silk. It can be lined with silk or fur.

Turn shoes w/ rand, leather sole & toggle fasteners, Pratt, D.

Book of Viking York

Shoes

Leather was used for shoes. Women’s shoes are

ankle high or slippers.

Women’s boots do not come up as high as men’s

boots.

Refer to Ragnar accoutrement section for shoe

patterns & how to make a pattern to fit your foot.

Socks were nailbinded or felted.

Nalbinded socks

Nalbinded ocks. Coppergate stitch, Mack,D.

Archeology of Novgorod, Russia

Head coverings and Hair Nets

Hair nets can be made of sprang or netting technique.

You could probably make a loosely stitched hair net out of nalbinding as well.

Head coverings were simple:

1. Triangle or square of linen tied at the back of the neck.

2. A small Birka/Jorvick style cap (rectangle folded and stitched up the back) to make a cap.

3. A long rectangle of linen draped over head and ends placed back over shoulders.

Early Viking women did not cover their hair, it was worn in long braids or knotted at the back of the

head. Sometimes a scarf was worn over the head. Later Viking women (Christian influence) always

wore a head covering over their hair, young and old, the hair did not show.

Accessories

Jewelry were cast metals, glass beads, metal beads,

amber, semi-precious stones, or bone.

Bead necklaces with combinations of; glass beads; coins

(from trades); amber; semiprecious stones and quartz

crystal beads.

Solid silver and bronze bracelets.

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