Book Case 2.pdf

BOOKCASE

314

Cutting the Parts

For precise crosscuts, first make a simple, self-aligning T-

guide for your circular saw. Cut a piece of 1/2-in. plywood to

2 1/2 x 24 in. and glue and screw it to a roughly 12-in.-long

piece of 1 x 4 pine that will serve as the crossbar of the T.

Center the plywood strip along the 1 x 4 and make sure the

pieces are perfectly square to each other.

Butt the crossbar of the T-guide against the edge of a piece

of scrap lumber, tack the guide in place and make a cut

through the 1 x 4 with your saw base guided by the plywood

strip. Then, trim the 1 x 4 on the opposite side in the same

way. Now, the ends of the 1 x 4 can be aligned with layout

lines on the stock for precise cut positioning.

Fig. 1 Mark the lengths of the bookcase side panels

on 1 x 10 lumber and use a square to lay out the

crosscut lines.

Begin construction by using a tape measure to mark the

length of a side panel on 1 x 10 stock, and lay out the cut

line with a square (Fig. 1) . The side panels on our bookcase

are 48 in. long.

Place the T-guide against the edge of the stock and align its

trimmed end with the cut line. Tack the guide in place and

use your circular saw to make the cut (Fig. 2) .

To support your work during the cuts, use 2 x 4s spanning

two saw-horses for a temporary bench and clamp your work

in place. Set your circular saw cutting depth so the blade

cuts about 1/8 in. into the 2 x 4s.

After both sides are cut to length, lay out and cut the five

shelves to length to suit the width of your bookcase. Our

shelf length is 31 in.

Fig. 2 With a T-guide cut to match your saw, align

the end of guide with crosscut line. Tack guide to the

work and then make the cut.

Rip the four lower shelves to 8 7/8 in. wide to allow for the

thickness of the case back. Clamp each shelf to the

sawhorses and tack a straight strip to the work to guide your

circular saw ( Fig. 3 ).

Next, cut the 10 shelf-support cleats from lengths of 1/2 x

3/4-in. parting strip. Use a handsaw to cut the pieces slightly

oversize, then gang the pieces together with masking tape.

Mark the cut lines and use your circular saw and T-guide to

cut the cleats to 8 7/8 in. long ( Fig. 4 ).

Because we varied the spaces between the shelves, the

vertical back cleat lengths vary. Rough cut and mark the

back cleats in pairs. From the top down, the lengths are 8,

9, 9 1/2 and 11 1/4 in. When cutting the back cleats with the

T-guide, first gang them together so all the marks on one

side align. After the cut, untape the cleats and reposition

them so the marks on the opposite side are aligned for the

next cut.

Fig. 3 Use a straight strip as a guide when ripping

stock for the four lower shelves to 8 7/8 in. The top

shelf remains a full 1 x 10.

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Fig. 4 After cutting shelf cleats oversize, gang them

together with tape, mark the cut lines and trim with a

T-guide and circular saw.

Assembly

First mark the shelf cleat locations. Hook your tape

measure to the top edge of a side panel, extend the tape

and place marks at the following dimensions: 3/4, 10 1/4,

20 3/4, 31 3/4 and 44 1/2 in. These marks indicate the

top edges of the shelf cleats. Transfer the marks to the

other panel. Lay both side pieces edge to edge with the

marks on the outer edges and use a rule or straightedge

to extend the shelf locations across both panels at once

( Fig. 5 ).

Use 2d nails and glue to attach the shelf cleats to the sides.

Position the cleats so they're flush with the front edges of

the sides. Then, attach the vertical back cleats, leaving a

3/4-in. gap at the bottom of each back cleat for a shelf ( Fig.

6 ). The gaps will help to keep the shelves aligned during

assembly. Align the back cleats with the back ends of the

shelf cleats to provide the 3/8-in. recess for the back panel.

Fig. 5 Butt sides together with shelf-location marks

on outer edges. Use a straightedge to extend the

shelf marks across work.

Fig. 6 Nail and glue shelf cleats and back cleats to

the side panels. Note that cleats are recessed 3/8 in.

from back edge of sides.

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To join the sides and shelves, first lay a side panel on a few

2 x 4s placed on the floor. With a helper assisting, stand the

shelves in position and lay the opposite side on the shelf

ends. Start a pair of 6d finishing nails at each shelf location

so the points just penetrate the shelves. Lift the side off and

apply glue to the endgrain of the shelves. Let the glue soak

in for a few minutes, then apply a second coat. Follow with

a coat of glue on the sides and cleats. Replace the panel

using the nail points to align the shelves. Then drive the

nails ( Fig. 7 ) and set them below the surface.

After the first side is attached, grasp the sides at one end

while your helper grasps the opposite end and flip the

assembly over. Secure the remaining side and check that

the case is square. If necessary, tack a diagonal brace

across the back to hold it while the glue sets. When the glue

is dry cut a piece of parting strip to fit between the two top

cleats and under the top shelf. This piece will be set 3/8 in.

in front of the top shelf rear edge to provide room for the

back panel. Glue and nail this long cleat to the shelf.

Fig. 7 Secure one side to the shelves with glue and

6d finishing nails. Then flip the assembly over and

attach the other side. Set all nails.

Adding the Fascia

To fit the 1 x 2 fascia over the case front edges, first mark

the stock for crosscutting. Make the vertical pieces 48 in.

long to match the sides and mark the horizontal members at

29 1/2 in. Rough cut the pieces to length and use the T-

guide and circular saw to trim them squarely to exact size.

Apply glue to one of the vertical members and nail it to the

case so its edge is flush with the side. Then, add each

horizontal member with glue and nails, keeping the top

edges flush with the shelf tops ( Fig. 8 ). Finally, add the

remaining vertical member with nails and glue.

Fig. 8 Attach the 1 x 2 strips to the case starting with

a vertical member. Then, add the horizontal pieces

and the other vertical.

Use 1 x 4 stock for the front and two side baseboard pieces.

Cut the length of each side piece to 10 in. long and glue

and nail the parts in place. Then, cut the front baseboard

piece to 34 in. long and secure it so its ends are flush with

the side pieces.

After the glue has dried, use a block plane to trim a chamfer

around the top edge of the baseboard. Plane the side

pieces first, working from front to back to avoid splitting the

corners of the front piece. Then, plane the front piece to

match. It helps to lean the plane against the case to

maintain a uniform angle ( Fig. 9 ).

The final component is the case back. Lay out the cut lines

on 1/4-in.-thick lauan plywood. Tack a straight strip to the

panel to serve as a guide for your circular saw and cut the

stock to size ( Fig. 10 ). Attach the back panels to the case

with glue and 1-in. finishing nails.

Fig. 9 Use a block plane to shape the chamfers on

the baseboard. Rest the plane against the case to

maintain a uniform angle.

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Fig. 10 Cut the 1/4-in.-thick back panel to size with a

circular saw. Use a straight strip as a guide when

making the cuts.

Finishing

First make sure all the nails are set below the surface. Use

a putty knife to fill the nail holes with wood filler and let the

compound dry ( Fig. 11 ).

Sand the entire bookcase with 120- followed by 220-grit

sandpaper. Then, use a sanding block and 220-grit paper to

slightly ease all corners. Thoroughly dust off the case with a

tack rag.

If you plan to paint your bookcase, first apply two coats of

shellac over each knot to prevent the knots from bleeding

through the final paint job ( Fig. 12 ).

Fig. 11 Use a nail set to drive all nails below the

surface. Then apply wood filler over the nailheads

with a putty knife.

Then, prime and paint the bookcase according to the

manufacturer's instructions.

Fig. 12 Apply shellac to any knots before painting.

This will seal the knots and prevent sap from

bleeding through.

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