Box With Raised Panels.pdf

BOX WITH RAISED

PANELS

MAKING THE BOX

WITH RAISED PANELS

After the material has been selected and dimensioned, box's vertical corners have been sanded flush, the four

plough grooves on the inside faces of the box's sides and vertical panels are raised by cutting a 7/16” X 1/8" pass around

ends to receive the tongues on the edges of the box's top all four sides.

and bottom. Cut dovetails at each of the box's four vertical You can do this on either the table saw or on a table-

corners, mounted router by removing enough material to give the

Glue the dovetails and assemble the four walls of the effect of raising the central portion of each of the vertical

box around the top and bottom. At first, this may seem panels.

strange because this makes the box a completely sealed Create a lid by cutting a saw kerf through the four walls

enclosure, allowing no access to the space inside. This of the box l 7 /8" from the top.

problem, however, will be solved very quickly. After installing the hardware (see chapter twenty-seven),

Because of the placement of the groove near the top of cut a shallow mortise around the strike plate, and fasten

the inside faces of the front, back and ends, the top panel the 1/8" thick pull into place with glue and a few brads.

is already raised 1/8 ". After the pins and tails at each of the The box is then ready for sanding and finishing.

Clamp a strip of wood to the saw fence. This wood will 2 The box’s four vertical faces are framed by the 7/16” X 3/32” saw

protect the blade when the fence is crowded against it. Then,

kerf created when the perimeter of those faces is passed over

set the blade at a height of 7/16”above the saw table, and bring

the blade.

the fence up to it.

Chisels, files and sandpaper are necessary to remove the grain 4 Set the fence 1 7/8” from the blade, cut off the top, creating the lid.

tear-out and burn marks left along the saw kerfs. (This should

bring the saw kerf to its finished thickness of 1/8 ".)

5 Notice the burn

marks left by the

saw blade. A blade

on which the teeth

have set won't burn;

however, the

hollow-ground

planer blade is made

without set in order

to produce a

smoother cut and, as

a result, often leaves

a burned surface.

BURN RE MOVAL

I have read that a hollow-ground planer blade can be per-

suaded to cut without leaving behind the unsightly, black-

ened surfaces visible in the above photo. I have read that

if the blade is razor sharp, free of pitch, and set perfectly

parallel to the rip fence, it is possible to cut without burning.

But I haven't been able to manage it.

I clean the blade frequently, and it is kept sharp, and

of course I make an effort to properly set the rip fence,

but 1 always end up with burned surfaces on one or both

sides of the cut.

This could be a result of the fact that machine tool

maintenance is not a priority in my shop. Although I have

the standard array of power tools, I use them no more than

necessary and never take pleasure in their operation. They

produce too much noise and too much dirt, making the

shop a thoroughly unpleasant place to be.

I have, instead, focused on methods for removing these

bum makes from cut surfaces.

Those in the above photo are relatively easy to eliminate.

Placing the tip of an extremely sharp 1" butt chisel across

the thickness of the blackened wood, I drag the chisel

backward (in the direction opposite the bevel) in a scraping

motion. Two or three passes removes most of the scorching,

in addition to leveling any irregularities left behind by the

sawing process. A little work with sandpaper wrapped

around a bit of flat scrap then completes the clean-up

process.

The scorched areas resulting from the formation of the

raised panels on the four sides of this box are a little more

difficult. Because the raised panel is immediately adjacent

to these flats, they can't be straddled with a chisel. Making

the process even more difficult is the fact that the vertical

flats on each end of the raised panels run across the grain.

The solution? The only one I know requires patience

and a lot of work with a fine-toothed wood file and sandpa-

per.

I suspect that it would take less time to tune my table

saw so that a hollow-ground planer blade wouldn't burn

cut surfaces than it does to remove the burn marks after-

wards. I suspect that I'm not using my shop time as wisely

as I might. But there is a trade-off here. To achieve the

overall time savings, I would have resigned myself to several

hours of frustrating, knuckle-busting power-tool mainte-

nance, and the truth is that I would rather spend my time

scraping and sanding .

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