gambeson_instructions.pdf

How to Make

a Gambeson

Also known as:

Aketon, Arming Coat, Bambikion,

Haqueton, Jack or Jupon

By Inga the Unfettered

Lost Vikings Household

MKA: Michelle Height

michima@somethingorother.com

Special thanks to:

Olaf the Stout Rasmussen: for asking me to make my first gambeson and taking the time to explain what one

was and what it was for.

Countess Dierdriana of the Misty Isles MKA: Maureen Whitaker Clifton : for her booklet ÒFantastic

GambazonsÓ that got me started on my way.

The Lost Vikings : for loving my work so much and for putting it to such good use

Dexter of the Silver Talons : for all the brainstorming and for questioning everything

My mum : for all the skills that make it possible

@ 2001 Inga the Unfettered MKA: Michelle Height

Design options

There are several factors to consider when choosing the design and style of the gambeson.

- What type of fighter will wear this gambeson? Lights must have long sleeves, heavies wear a broad

assortment of armor that must be factored in to the fit. I suggest doing a few sketches to help determine what

will best serve the wearerÓs needs.

- What is the wearerÓs persona? This will affect color choice, quilting design and embellishment. The pattern

I present here does not derive exclusively from any one given period and authenticity has been sacrificed for

functionality to some degree. This basic shape can easily be modified to include a collar, dags and other such

period modifications. Keep in mind that this garment is, above all, intended to protect the wearer - do not let

the appearance of the gambeson impede the functionality of the garment Î just a word of caution.

- Is this for a new fighter or established fighter? A new fighter may wish to construct a quick version of the

gambeson to save time & cost. An established fighter generally has a clear idea of what works for them and

will likely want to go with the full finish gambeson for itÓs durability.

Quick version Î ideal for the new fighter Î can only be made out of moving blanket

The primary difference is that the moving blanket is not encased in anything to increase itÓs lifespan. Edges

of the moving blanket are encased in store bought bias tape or serged to seal in the padding.

Material Cost: $20 to $30

Construction time: 2 to 3 evenings

Lifespan: up to one year with weekly washings

High Finish Î major investment of time & money Î best for those that are committed to fighting.

Material Cost: up to $200

Construction time: 30 to 40 hours

Lifespan: seemingly indefinite if cared for properly (all those IÓve made are still in use)

4 to 6 years under regular levels of abuse is a conservative estimate (Note: edging and edging

where armor rubs will show wear first i.e.: area around neckline where gorget rubs)

Styles

Tabard

Î works best with external armor or for those brave souls that wear absolute bare minimum armor

Î no sleeves and nominal coverage on sides (ribs) an issue to be considered

Î this is such a simple design that I do not cover it specifically in the following construction instructions.

Simply cover batting/moving blanket according to construction instructions and edge with bias tape as

per edging instructions. Attach closures (ties, grommets & lacing etc..) under arms at waist.

Loose/Tunic style

- looser fit works well with either internal or external armor

- lessfittingrequired

- excess fabric may cause bunching

- excellent for light fighting

- can be done with open or closed armholes & with or without side slits

- shown here with short sleeve and long sleeve

Fitted style

- designed for use with close fitting internal armor

- highlyfitted

- no excess of fabric

- armholes are open and sides are slit to provide maximum range of motion

- shown here with short sleeve and long sleeve

Materials List

Padding Interior

- Moving blanket - MUST be of all natural materials Î WARNING some companies sell blankets that have

synthetic shells

- Cotton or Polyester batting

Exterior

- Cotton/ Polyester blend fabric is recommended - this gives you the breathability of cotton with the pill

resistance and colorfastness of polyester

- Heavy Suiting or Bull Denim are excellent choices for long term wear (Note: for those new to sewing, the

staff at the fabric stores can help you find these types of fabric)

- IMPORTANT!!!!! The weave of the fabric you select must be tight Î think of how closely woven denim

is. An open weave fabric will snag, pill, tear and show wear much more readily

Bonding Material

- Stichwitchery can be used but it does add weight to the finished product and is quite costly

- Bargain Fabric outlets regularly carry a no-name version of Stichwitchery that is much lighter Î it looks

like spider web Î and is as good a fusing material at about half the cost of Stichwitchery

Thread Î Poly/cotton blend

Sewing Machine Needles

- Batting - Regular heavy duty needles

- Moving Blanket - Leather needles are best for punching through the bulk of the moving blanket

Shopping list for above materials

(based on constructing a gambeson for your average SCA male heavy fighter 180 Î200 lbs)

- 1 NEW moving blanket

OR 3 m Polyester or Cotton batting

- 3 m @ 60 inch width of each the exterior fabric and the lining

- 2 m @ 60 inch width for bias tape to seal all edges and seams for fitted style

OR 1 m @ 60 inch width for bias tape to seal all edges for looser tunic style (see section on design)

- 2 spools of thread in exterior color for quilting and top stitching

- 2 spools of thread in bias tape color

- 1 package of sewing machine needles (see above for type)

- 12 m of Stichwitchery @ 20 inch width

OR 4 m of discount fusing (it is generally in greater than 60 inch widths Î adjust this amount based on what

widths you are able to purchase it in)

- Closures (this is all matter of choice)

- 2 inch width adhesive backed Velcro (1 m is usually enough)

- Fabric tie closures made of bias tape fabric

- Leather toggles or buckles

- Grommets & leather or synthetic lacing

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