Chest - Six Drawer Chest.pdf - Projekty - stolarstwo - amok10

SIX-DRAWER CHEST

Curly Maple, Walnut

MAKING THE SIX-

DRAWER CHEST

After the stock for the top, bottom and ends of the case

has been thicknessed, ripped to width, and cut to length,

each must be given a 1/4 " X 5/16" rabbet that will later receive

the back panel. At this time, cut the through dovetails at

each corner. The rabbet complicates this process, but there

are a couple of easy choices you can make here: (1) miter

the materiaJ that will house the rabbet, or (2) use a Jap

joint in which the rabbets on the case's top and bottom

simply lap the rabbets on the ends.

After fitting the dovetails, lay out and cut the dadoes

for the partitions between drawers. Then glue-up the case.

After the glue on the dovetails has cured, slide the parti-

tions into place with a bit of glue spread in the dadoes.

Drive brads through the top, sides and bottom of the case

to help hold these partitions.

Fit the tenons at the top of each leg into mortises drilled

into the bottom of the case, and affix the back panel in

its rabbet using 1/2 " no. 6 wood screws passing through

oversized holes (to allow for wood movement as the panel

expands and contracts in response to seasonal changes in

humidity) in the panel.

Except for the big, fat dovetail at each corner, drawer

construction is conventional. Plough a 1/4" X 1/4" groove

on each drawer side and on the back of the front. These

will receive the 1/4"-thick drawer bottom. The back of the

drawer is not as high as the sides; it extends down only as

far as

Partially open drawers reveal the fat dovetails.

the top of the drawer bottom. Nail through the drawer

bottom, up into this drawer back.

For a larger, weight-carrying drawer, the single dovetail

at each corner would be a poor choice, but for such a tiny

drawer, one that will never carry more than a few ounces

of load, the single dovetail provides a joint offering a fair

amount of mechanical resistance to forward pull and a fair

amount of glue surface.

Turn the drawer pulls from walnut and fasten them in

place with a thin tenon fit into a mortise drilled into the

drawer front.

BUILDING THE DRAWERS

Each drawer is custom-fit into its opening. First, plane the

sides to the right height—one that permits them to slide into

their openings with the least amount of clearance.

2 Cut dovetails using a backsaw and a coping saw.

Use a parting chisel to achieve final fit.

BUILDING THE DRAWERS

< CONTINUED >

3 After its parts have been cut and fit, the drawer is ready

to assemble. Brads help the glue hold the drawer sides in

place.

4 Note the sur-

plus length at each

corner.

This is ground off

with a belt sander

5 After sanding the

sides and the front of

the drawer, slide the

bottom into place and

fasten with brads. Plug

the holes at the ends

of the grooves on

both sides of the

drawer front. Plane

thickness from the two

strips of softwood

tacked to the back of

each drawer to achieve

final fit.

CHEST BACK The

back is unglued,

fastened with screws to

the case's top, bottom

and central partitions.

BACK RABBET

This photo shows the

lapped rabbet corner at

the back of the case

Chest - Six Drawer Chest.pdf

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