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Bumping locks
Bumping locks
How to open Mul-T-Lock (pin-in-pin, interactive, 7x7), Assa
(6000 Twin), DOM (ix, dimple with ball), LIPS (Octro
dimple), Evva TSC, ISEO (dimple & standard), Corbin,
Pfaffenhain and a variety of other expensive mechanical
locks without substantial damage, usually in under 30
seconds, with little training and using only inexpensive tools.
Barry Wels & Rop Gonggrijp
Toool - The Open Organization Of Lockpickers
barry@toool.nl, rop@toool.nl
Last revision: January 26, 2005
http://www.toool.nl/bumping.pdf
Abstract
In this paper we describe an underestimated lock-opening technique by which a
large variety of mechanical locks can be opened quickly and without damage by a
relatively untrained attacker. Among other things we examine how this works, why
it works better on some locks than on others, whether one could detect that this
technique was used against a lock and what the lock-industry could do to protect
new locks against this technique. Understanding the threat of this new method of
manipulating locks is of added importance because we have found that this method
actually works
better
on the more expensive mechanical locks generally considered
to be most resistant to manipulation.
1
Preface – Why publish this?
We decided to publish what we know about this method because we feel those that
depend on the security of locks (or any other piece of technology for that matter) need to
be able to continuously re-evaluate their security having full knowledge of any threats.
This vulnerability is simply too generic: it affects many locks and cannot be 'fixed' by a
single lock manufacturer working in secrecy until a new and better lock can be released.
Although we have further refined the method we were originally shown, we did
originally learn about it through a public appearance by Klaus Noch. And we noticed yet
other people knew how to make it work even better too. In other words, this knowledge is
'out there', the cat is out of the bag. Given these circumstances, rather than allowing
knowledge of this method to spread slowly amongst those that could attack unknowing
victims, we decided to publish so that facility managers can re-evaluate their security and
see whether additional security measures need to be taken at some locations.
If you disagree, we encourage you to read [1] and [2] for a more thorough
understanding of the discussion on whether or not to publish information describing
security flaws before engaging in any heated debate.
1
2
Introduction to locks and lock security
2.1
How locks work
Pin tumbler locks, from the cheapest to the most expensive all work in roughly the
same way. The key slides down the keyway in the inner cylinder of the lock. As it moves,
the cuts in the key move stacks of two or more pins, moving in holes drilled through the
outer and inner cylinder. Small springs behind these pins push the pins back after a high
point on the key has passed. When the correct key is all the way in and the 'shoulder' of
the key rests against the inner cylinder, all the gaps between the pins inside the lock align
on the 'sheer line', and the inner cylinder is free to turn.
Photos courtesy of Matt Blaze
The picture above shows a 'cut-away' version of a simple pin tumbler lock with the
correct key inserted. For a much more thorough introduction to the inner workings of
locks, please refer to [3].
2.2
Picking locks
Lock can be 'picked'. A skilled operator can use tools to feel and move individual
pins in the lock. Lockpicking allows one to open a lock by exploiting the fact that the pin
stacks are never perfectly aligned. This causes some pins to be stuck between the inner
and outer cylinder before others. Because of this, one can feel that certain pins are
correctly aligned before
all
the pins are aligned. And because the outer pins that would
jam before others will remain on the outside of the inner cylinder after the lock is turned
slightly, one can successively place the pins in the correct position and open the lock.
Lockpicking takes quite a bit of practice. Apart from intelligence professionals,
criminals and locksmiths practicing it, lockpicking has become a regular sport, complete
with official clubs and championships
1
.
Lock manufacturers have defended new locks
against picking by inserting so-called 'mushroom pins', by making keyways narrower
(providing less space for tools) and by lowering the mechanical tolerances of the lock
manufacturing process. (See picture of EVVA lock on page 7)
Going over the details of locks and lock picking would be outside of the scope of this
paper. Please refer to the "MIT Guide to Lock Picking" [3] if any of the above is unclear.
1
Ssdev (Sportsfreunde der Sperrtechnik Deutschland eV) in Germany and Toool (The Open
Organization Of Lockpickers) in The Netherlands.
2
2.3
The snapper pick, lockpick gun and vibrating tools
Another means of opening locks without the key is by using a snapper pick, lockpick
gun or vibrating tool. These devices all exploit Newton's law that says that for every
action there is an equal and opposite reaction. Most people are familiar with Newton's
cradle, a device which is often used to demonstrate this law.
If a ball all the way on the left or right side is lifted up and let loose to collide with
the row of suspended balls, this ball will transfer all its
energy to the next ball and so forth, until the ball on the
other end moves to swing away from the other balls.
When it swings back, the process is reversed and the
original ball swings up. The same principle can be
observed during a game of billiards: one ball hits
another one, and this ball continues onward whereas
the first ball now lies still.
This principle can be used to open locks: if
impulse energy is transferred to the first pin, it will
tend to stay in place and the second pin tends to move
away from the first one, until the spring stops it and
pushes it back to touch the first pin.
A 'lockpick gun' such as the one shown below will, when the trigger is pulled,
tension a spring and then when the trigger is pulled all the way use the force of that
spring to snap the needle up for a short distance, but with a very sharp and powerful
motion. By positioning this needle into the lock, just touching the pins, and then pulling
the trigger, one tries to hit all the pins simultaneously. By then making the lock turn in
the split-second before all the upper pins are pushed back by the springs in the lock, one
can open the lock. The amount of turning force and the timing with which to apply it
require some training.
Vibrating picks use the same principle except many times a second, requiring less
training on the part of the operator. A snapper pick is the simpler version of a pick gun.
The lock industry has created locks that are more resistant to this technique. More
resistant locks have narrower keyways, preventing tools from being inserted in the first
place, and making it harder to transfer the impulse energy to the pins. More resistant
locks also have smaller tolerances, creating less space for the pins to bounce around.
lockpick gun
2
snapper pick
3
2
In this case a special gun, made by Kurt Zuhlke. The head on this gun can be reversed to snap either
up or down, allowing picking of 'European style' locks where the pins are pushed up by the springs.
3
Image taken with permission from "Locks, safes, and security" [4], page 578
3
3
Bumping locks
3.1
History
Bumping, sometimes also called 'Rapping', has been a known technique for at least
the past 50 years. A bump key is described in Marc Tobias's reference work "Locks,
Safes, and Security" [4] on page 603. Few people use the technique, and the method does
not seem successful against a large number of locks unless the 'minimal motion method'
described below is used. Once correctly used, we found this technique to be immensely
powerful, allowing a large variety of locks to be opened. We did not invent this
technique, and others probably thought of some of the same refinements we did. We do
feel bumping is underestimated, and this paper exists to point to its effectiveness.
3.2
Principle & Bump keys
So we have a basic trick to open a lock by making the second pin jump away from
the first, but no efficient means to apply this energy to the bottom pin. As it turns out, the
best way to transfer energy to the pins is using a key. First of all, we need a 'bump key'
for the lock in question. A bump key is a key in which all the cuts are at maximum depth.
The picture below shows bump keys for various locks. Bump keys are sometimes called
'999' keys because all cuts are at maximum (9) depth.
As you can see you can cut bump keys for both regular pin tumbler locks as well as
for 'dimple locks', whether 'pin-in-pin' or not. Just remember to take away all the material
that could be taken away by the deepest combination for that position.
There are machines that will cut a key based on the numbers that represent the depth
at each position. Having access to such a machine speeds up the process of creating a
bump key that has the cuts in the exact right position, although one can also use a file and
a steady hand to create one. Bump keys, once cut, can be copied on regular key-cutting
equipment. You do not necessarily need to have an uncut key (called 'blank') to make a
bump key: because all the cuts of a bump key are at maximum depth, any used key for a
given lock can be converted into a bump key.
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3.3
The pull-back method
Now there are different methods for using such a bump key to transfer force to the
pins inside the lock. When we first learned of the method, we were told to first insert the
key all the way, and then pull it back one pin. Then, hit the back of the key (the part
where you normally hold on to it) with a solid object such as a hammer, and then turn the
key a split-second later. We found the exact timing for the turning of the lock to be
critical, requiring quite a bit of practice. While this method worked on some locks, it did
not work on a great many others. Among other problems: when keys had very deep cuts,
the trick tended to not work either because the pins would still be pushed in too far by the
parts of the bump key between the deepest points.
3.4
The minimal-movement method
Normally, if you insert a key all the way into the
lock, the pins inside the lock touch the deepest point of
the cut in the key at the point where the shoulder of the
key makes contact with the inner cylinder of the lock. By
filing a tiny bit of metal off both the tip and the shoulder
of the key, we can create a bump key that can go just a
little bit deeper into the lock. When such a bump key is
inserted all the way into the lock, it will be pushed out
again a tiny bit by the force of the springs inside the lock,
until the pins again rest on the deepest point in the key
cuts. We found filing off between 0.25 and 0.5 mm works
best, but you may wish to experiment for the best results.
We found it is very easy to take off too much. All
need to do is make sure that when the key is in all the
way, the pins touch the sides of the cuts instead of the
bottoms. Seeing the key be pushed back a fraction of a
millimeter by the springs in the lock means you have filed
away enough material from the shoulder.
Bump key. Note that tip and
shoulder are not yet modified.
to hit the back of the key with
something that applies the right amount
of impulse power, without having so
much weight that it would damage the
bump key or the lock. We use a special
bumping tool built by Kurt Zühlke called
the Tomahawk, but anything with not
too much weight and preferably also
some swing, such as a dull bread-knife
held by the blade or the handle of a
hammer could also work.
5
you
Now that we have our bump key, we
need
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