Cabinet - OFFICE DISPLAY CABINET.pdf - Projekty - stolarstwo - klaustrofobia_off

OFFICE DISPLAY

CABINET

Every executive accumulates business mementos,

personal treasures, souvenirs and perhaps even a few

cherished awards. These are the things that personalize an

otherwise utilitarian office space. They make it a

comfortable place to work and an inviting place for

associates to visit. However, the successful executive

needs more than a simple shelf on the wall to display the

collection.

Our walnut cabinet was custom designed to fill this need.

As with our two companion pieces, this case features

matching walnut veneer across the lower doors and on the

cabinet sides. The two upper cases have lighted interiors

and mirrored backs to showcase the objects placed inside.

Tempered glass doors and glass shelves complete the

package.

While this project is ambitious in terms of material cost, the

construction details are within the capabilities of an

experienced home woodworker. We used walnut-veneer

MDF (medium-density fiberboard) for the panels. To

produce the matched-veneer appearance, order the panels

"sequence matched and numbered." Here, each panel will

be numbered to correspond to the order in which the

eneers were cut from the log.

Case Construction

Begin by cutting the walnut panels for the upper and lower

cases. Pay special attention to matching the veneer on the

outer sides so that the grain runs continuously from the

lower- to upper-case side. Cut the panels slightly oversize,

add the solid-walnut edge band (O, F) to the front edges of

all panels and add the walnut veneer tape (M) to the top

edges of the lower-case outer sides (E1). Then cut the

panels to finished size.

Use the router with straightedge guide to cut the rabbet in the

outer case sides (E1, N1) that hide the cabinet backs. Lay

out the joining-plate slots in sides, tops and bottoms, and cut

the slots with the plate joiner.

Make a boring template for the shelf-pin holes in the lower

cabinets and a second template for the pin holes in the upper

cabinets. A strip of 1/2-in. plywood or MDF is perfect for the

template. Clamp the appropriate template to a cabinet side,

and use it as a guide in boring the holes. A stop on the drill

bit ensures uniform hole depth.

Mark the locations of the glass-hinge mortises on the upper-

case top and bottom panels (P). Trace the hinges for the

proper mortise shape. Use a router and straight bit to remove

most of the waste from the mortises and finish with a sharp

chisel and gouge. Test fit the hinge bases and make any

necessary adjustments.

Lay out and bore the 7/8-in.-dia. holes for the light switches

in the upper-case sides (N2). Use an adjustable circle cutter

to bore the 58-mm-dia. holes for the halogen lights in the

upper-case tops.

Sand the interior surfaces of the cabinet parts before

assembly, finishing with 220-grit paper. Then, completely

dust off the parts.

To assemble one of the cases, spread glue on each plate

and in its slot before inserting the plate. Join the top and

bottom to one of the case sides, then position the opposite

side and apply clamps to pull the joints tight. Compare

opposite diagonal measurements to check that the cabinet is

square and adjust the clamps if necessary. Let the glue set

for at least 30 minutes before removing the clamps. Repeat

the process for the remaining cases.

Cut the 1/2-in. panels for the case backs (I, R). Note that the

top edge of the lower-case backs must be covered with

walnut-veneer tape. Apply the tape to the edge before cutting

the panel to finished size. Bore pilot holes and temporarily

fasten the backs to the cases with 1-in. No. 5 fh screws.

The Spacers, Base And Soffit

Prepare the maple spacers that fit between the cabinets and

between the upper cases and the soffit. Temporarily screw

the upper vertical spacers (CC) to an upper-case side and

attach the lower vertical spacers (DD) to a lower case.

Cut the maple parts for the base and soffit, as well as the

3/4-in. gussets (Y1, Y2, D1, D2). Assemble the base and

soffit with 4d finishing nails and glue. Set and fill the nail

holes. When the filler dries, sand the assemblies.

Lay the two bottom cases on their backs and clamp them

together so that they are properly aligned. Bore pilot holes

and temporarily screw the two cases together. Next,

temporarily screw the base to the case bottoms. Stand the

assembly on the floor. If necessary, shim the base so the

assembly is level and stable.

Bore and countersink pilot holes in the spacers that separate

the top and bottom cases. Then temporarily screw them to

the top of the lower case assembly. Position the upper cases

over the lower subassembly. Screw the upper cases together

and fasten the upper half to the lower half by screwing

through the tops of the lower cabinets. Then, temporarily

install the top spacers (Z, AA, BB), place the soffit in position

and temporarily secure it.

The Doors And Shelves

Select the panels for the lower cabinet doors so there will be a uniform,

matching grain pattern across the lower cases. Cut the panels to size and

apply walnut-veneer tape on all edges. Bore the 35mm recesses for the

hinges in each door and mount the hinges on the doors. Attach the hinge

mounting plates to the lower-case sides, mount the doors and adjust the

hinges for proper spacing. Bore 3/16-in. holes for the door pulls and fasten the

pulls to the doors.

For safety's sake, it's best to use tempered glass for the display case doors.

Tempered glass must be specially ordered and cannot be altered once the

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