Chair - Anniversary.pdf
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Anniversary Chair
Anniversary
Chair
The first in a new furniture line designed to commemorate 100 years of POPULAR
MECHANICS.
No woodworker of 100 years ago could have guessed what
lay in store--what amazing new tools and materials waited
in the wings. Who could have known that compact,
powerful electric motors would come to dominate every
basement workshop activity? And that manufactured
panels and lumber, new adhesives and plastics would
literally change the shape of our homes, the things we
make for them and the way we build it all?
No one could have known--but there was one sure way to
keep up. With each issue, POPULAR MECHANICS
brought the latest in technology, tools, products and
projects into homes and workplaces across the country. It
was here, in these pages, that woodworkers just like you
pored over plans and instructions for building everything
from bookcases to speedboats. For millions, POPULAR
MECHANICS took the mystery out of making, and
empowered whole generations, giving them confidence to
"do it themselves." Now, with 100 years under our belt, it's
time to celebrate. And what better way than with a set of
matching furniture projects specifically designed for the
occasion.
The first in our series is this elegant side chair, and it sets
the tone for each succeeding furniture project throughout
the year. With bows to both the Arts & Crafts and Art
Nouveau styles, we've created a contemporary design
theme that's compatible with any decor. We've chosen
mahogany as the primary wood. But instead of the typical
dark stain that many are familiar with, we opted for a
natural oil finish that gently darkens with use, turning a
golden, reddish brown.
In addition to the mahogany, we used two exotic woods to
create tasteful decorative accents: wenge, a heavy, dense,
dark wood, and pomele sapele veneer, a mahogany-like
wood with a heavily quilted grain figure. Both of these
materials are available through mail-order suppliers. One
such supplier is A&M Wood Specialty Inc., 358 Eagle St.
N., Box 32040, Cambridge, Ontario, Canada N3H 5M2;
800-265-2759; www.amwoodinc.com.
We had an upholsterer provide the slip seat for our chair.
This is the place where you can add a personal touch by
selecting a fabric that blends with your home's interior
esign scheme.
d
MATERIALS LIST--CHAIR
Key No. Size and description (use)
A 2 1-3/4 x 3-3/4 x 43-3/4"
mahogany (rear leg)
B 2 2-1/8 x 2-1/8 x 16"
mahogany (front leg)
C 1 13/16 x 4 x 17-1/4"
mahogany (front rail)
D 1 13/16 x 6 x 13-5/8"
mahogany (rear rail)
E 2 1-3/4 x 4 x 13-5/8"
mahogany (back rail)
F 2 13/16 x 6 x 15-1/2"
mahogany (side rail)
G* 2 1/2 x 1-1/16 x 1-3/4" wenge
(leg cap)
H* 4 1/2 x 1-1/16 x 1-1/16" wenge
(foot)
I 1 3/8 x 5-1/2 x 17-5/8"
mahogany (splat)
J* 1 3/8 x 4 x 15" wenge (panel)
K* 1 4 x 15" pomele sapele (panel
veneer)
L 2 1 x 3 x 5-1/8" maple (corner
block)
M 2 1 x 3 x 5-9/16" maple (corner
block)
N 20 1-1/2" No. 8 fh woodscrew
O 4 3" No. 10 fh woodscrew
Misc.: Glue; wax paper; 120-, 220- and
320-grit sandpaper; 4/0 steel wool;
Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish
(Waterlox Coatings Corp., 9808 Meech
Ave., Cleveland, OH 44105); slip seat
provided by upholsterer.
* Finished dimension. Cut oversize and
trim after assembly.
Start With The Legs
Begin by making a full-size template for the side
profile of the rear legs from a piece of 1/4-in.-thick
hardboard or plywood. Use the template to lay out
the legs on 1-3/4-in. stock, and cut to the waste
side of the lines with a band saw (Photo 1). Do
not make the top and bottom cuts at this time--it's
more accurate to make these cuts after final leg
shaping.
Use a plane to smooth the sawn surfaces and
refine the shape of the rear legs. Be sure to keep
the planed surfaces square to the leg sides
(Photo 2). With the shaping done, use a table saw
and miter gauge to trim the top and bottom of
each leg. Then, rip stock for the front legs to 2-1/8
in. square and crosscut these pieces to 16 in.
long.
Use a band saw to cut the rear leg
shapes. Keep the saw kerf on the waste
side of the layout line while cutting.
Lay out all the mortise locations on the legs.To
make this job more accurate, clamp two legs side
by side and mark them together. Then, use an
edge guide and a spiral up-cutting bit to rout the
mortises (Photo 3). Make each mortise in two or
three passes to avoid breaking the bit or
overloading the router, and finish by chopping the
ends square with a sharp chisel. Lay out the
tapers on the front chair legs, use your band saw
to cut the legs to shape, and plane the surfaces
smooth.
Smooth the cut surfaces with a hand
plane. Be sure to keep the planed surface
square to the adjacent faces.
Rip a blank of wenge to 1-1/8 x 1-13/16 in. and
cut it about 8 in. long. Use a sharp chisel to trim a
1/4-in. bevel around one end (Photo 4), and then
cut a 1/2-in.-thick piece from the beveled end to
produce a leg cap. Repeat the process for the
remaining leg cap. Apply glue to a cap and top
end of a leg, position the cap (Photo 5) and clamp
it in place. When the glue dries, sand the cap
edges flush and adjust the chamfer as required.
Then, cut a wenge foot for each leg. Bore and
countersink a pilot hole in each foot and fasten
them to the legs with screws and glue. Sand the
feet flush, and slightly soften the bottom edges so
they won't chip.
Rout the leg mortises with a spiral up-
cutting bit. Another leg helps support the
router while making these cuts.
Use a chisel to cut a 1/4-in. bevel at the
top end of a wenge blank. Then, cut a leg
cap from the blank.
Apply glue, place the cap on the end of
the leg, and clamp. Sand the cap flush
and adjust the chamfer as necessary.
Making The Rails
Cut 13/16-in.-thick stock to size for the lower chair
rails and use 1-3/4-in. blanks for the curved back
rails. Install a dado blade in the table saw and use
your miter gauge to cut the tenons on the front
and back bottom rails (Photo 6). Readjust the
blade height and hold the work on edge to cut the
tenon shoulders. When cutting the thicker back-
rail tenons, note that the depth of cut is different
on the front and back faces.
Mark the locations of the mortises in the edges of
the curved rails, and rout the mortises before you
cut the rails to shape. Square the mortises with a
chisel.
Use a dado blade to cut the rail tenon
faces. Turn the stock on edge and
readjust blade to cut tenon shoulders.
Use your band saw to cut the inside curve of the
rails (Photo 7). Then, clamp each piece to your
bench and use a spokeshave to smooth the cut
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